Originally Posted by Crockett
neutral to one side and line voltage to the other....if the core is good...you still have the original issue...if you dont need it on lp, you'll be ahead of the game to just get the 110 refer...if you do go the 110 refer, some have the condenser coils ithe side. pull the insulation from that wall inside the coach so they can get some air and cool..
edit: just use a flare plug on the lp line....no need for a valve
I will try the AC hard wire and see how it works. If the technician is right the cooling unit is shot and I'll be replacing the unit with a 110 residential very soon. Haven't had much time to tinker today plus it's raining/snowing outside. All I did today was shut it off and disconnect AC and DC for about 3 hours and let all the liquid settle in case it is a blockage. Turned everything back on an hour ago and switched it to AC mode and it's cooling good so far. I'll know within the next couple hours if it will quit again.
Could the cold weather have frozen the distilled water in the cooling unit and dislodged something? It was down to negative temps overnight last week and the month before when I had this problem the first time. What has me really puzzled is usually the power board will register a no cooling problem. I haven't had one single error light with any of these problems.
I want to leave the exterior wall as intact as I can so if I end up needing room back there I'll make a sturdy ledge to sit the new fridge on leaving enough air gap in the back for circulation. Might even make some holes between the fridge compartment and the stove.