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Old 03-01-2015, 04:26 PM   #31
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Cap off the gas line with a brass ball valve and a cap over that then in the future you or a new owner can put in a lp unit easily.
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Old 03-01-2015, 04:48 PM   #32
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Cap off the gas line with a brass ball valve and a cap over that then in the future you or a new owner can put in a lp unit easily.
I hadn't thought of including a valve. Good idea. The location they ran the line up through the bottom of the fridge compartment is going to give me trouble when fitting the new fridge in there. They put it about 2 inches in from the wall and about 1/8" away from the metal frame of the fridge. May have to cut it and place the valve somewhere outside the fridge compartment. That would be either under the stove or under the floor. Have to chase it down to find out.
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Old 03-01-2015, 04:48 PM   #33
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May be a dumb question, but if you use an inverter to power a residential refrigerator while you are rolling down the road all day is it going to kill your trailer battery?
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Old 03-01-2015, 04:49 PM   #34
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That's a very good suggestion. So I would hard wire a male 120V plug onto the connectors of the element? Does it matter which wire to which wire? There aren't any markings I can see that points to the hot wire on the element side.
neutral to one side and line voltage to the other....if the core is good...you still have the original issue...if you dont need it on lp, you'll be ahead of the game to just get the 110 refer...if you do go the 110 refer, some have the condenser coils ithe side. pull the insulation from that wall inside the coach so they can get some air and cool..

edit: just use a flare plug on the lp line....no need for a valve
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Old 03-01-2015, 05:01 PM   #35
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May be a dumb question, but if you use an inverter to power a residential refrigerator while you are rolling down the road all day is it going to kill your trailer battery?
Not at all. We're full timers and are stationary in Cincinnati. Don't plan on coming off of shore power. When we get our house built we plan to trade or sell this trailer and buy a smaller one for travel.

I can see where it would drain the batteries quick on an inverter though. Wouldn't think that would last longer than an hour or two.
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Old 03-01-2015, 05:13 PM   #36
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neutral to one side and line voltage to the other....if the core is good...you still have the original issue...if you dont need it on lp, you'll be ahead of the game to just get the 110 refer...if you do go the 110 refer, some have the condenser coils ithe side. pull the insulation from that wall inside the coach so they can get some air and cool..

edit: just use a flare plug on the lp line....no need for a valve
I will try the AC hard wire and see how it works. If the technician is right the cooling unit is shot and I'll be replacing the unit with a 110 residential very soon. Haven't had much time to tinker today plus it's raining/snowing outside. All I did today was shut it off and disconnect AC and DC for about 3 hours and let all the liquid settle in case it is a blockage. Turned everything back on an hour ago and switched it to AC mode and it's cooling good so far. I'll know within the next couple hours if it will quit again.

Could the cold weather have frozen the distilled water in the cooling unit and dislodged something? It was down to negative temps overnight last week and the month before when I had this problem the first time. What has me really puzzled is usually the power board will register a no cooling problem. I haven't had one single error light with any of these problems.

I want to leave the exterior wall as intact as I can so if I end up needing room back there I'll make a sturdy ledge to sit the new fridge on leaving enough air gap in the back for circulation. Might even make some holes between the fridge compartment and the stove.
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Old 03-01-2015, 05:29 PM   #37
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the 9.9 i installed had the coils in the side, not the back
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Old 03-01-2015, 05:35 PM   #38
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Sorry, had second thoughts about my suggestion.
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Old 03-01-2015, 05:37 PM   #39
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the 9.9 i installed had the coils in the side, not the back
Good point I'll have to watch out for that. I have room to play with if the coils are on the side.
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Old 03-01-2015, 05:41 PM   #40
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You say you have watched Ford's RV refrigerator videos. Did you try his cold weather fix of partially blocking the inlet (lower) vent?
That's one of the first things I did last fall in preparing for winter. Air is about 80% blocked by a panel of 3/4 styrofoam insulation to the back of the door. Confusing part is the last two winters I did nothing to the vent and it worked fine with similar outside temperatures. One thing I noticed with the vent partially blocked is that the air moves much faster through the "chimney" cavity over the coils. Makes me wonder if with really low temps (below zero) it cools those coils even more rapidly. I'll defer to Mr. Ford's opinion though since he knows far better than me.
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