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Old 07-27-2013, 10:42 AM   #11
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Before removing anything, I would get a garden hose and shove it in the combustion chamber and flush out any debris. Compressed air can also be used but I would use a low pressure to avoid damaging the electrode.
I'll get the TT home on Sunday and get this cleaned. It's a good maintenance step in any case. Also have an inspection camera there to visually check.
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Old 07-27-2013, 10:58 AM   #12
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One more thought. The burner has to be grounded in order for the spark to jump to it. If the part right below the electrode wasn't grounded (or was extremely corroded) this could also cause the problem. I suggest using your ohm meter to verify a good ground at that point.
(A very corroded electrode would also be a problem.) These can be cleaned with sand paper if need be.
Good thought Barry, thanks. I read under the LP section that a bad ground would cause erratic behavior. I had cleaned the grounds near the lower control board previously (last month), however missed the ground to the burner area. I disassembled the burner/electrode last night and cleaned up all the touch points and cleaned the ground cable (at the burner end) that comes from the point near the control board - dielectric grease on all connections. Also soaked the orifice to cover that possibility.

Good news, unit fired up on propane and ran through the night, bad news had a check light come on during breakfast (battery reading 12.55v). We ran the generator for a period and retried the propane; lit once again. Leaving it on propane for now hoping that the earlier check light was 'normal' and resetting (the fridge) and allowing a period of cooling (while running on 120v off generator) for the propane components is the answer.

From this I know that the control board/igniter are working, and the electrode is okay. Certainly may have an intermittent issue on the board and if the problem continues may replace the control board to eliminate it.
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Old 07-27-2013, 11:29 AM   #13
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Most excellent!

If the error code comes on again, it would be good to know how it's failing. Reset the fridge and then go outside and watch while someone turns it on inside. If the burner lights and then goes out after a few (5?) seconds, it's time to take some sandpaper to the electrode (which is also the flame sensor).
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Old 07-29-2013, 02:05 PM   #14
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Most excellent!

If the error code comes on again, it would be good to know how it's failing. Reset the fridge and then go outside and watch while someone turns it on inside. If the burner lights and then goes out after a few (5?) seconds, it's time to take some sandpaper to the electrode (which is also the flame sensor).
I was hoping to post that this was resolved, however...

We cleaned the electrode as a preventative measure, and removed the burner tube and soaked it in alcohol to clean (with a light application of a brass brush by the slots). From the Service Manual "If the burner does not have a good ground it can cause erratic gas operation. The electrode sparks to the burner tube and a erratic ground will cause erratic gas operation."

The frustrating part is we reset the fridge and it now lights 'consistently' though will not continue to run continuously; I define this as 'erratic' . We're unable to get a good sense for "good to know how it's failing"; we hear the solenoid clicking followed by clicking (of the electrode) then the propane ignites, we leave it and it operates correctly for some hours before failing.

We started a log. The fridge ran (on propane) from 11p Saturday evening to 6:30a Sunday - check light. Restarted at 8a Sunday and it ran until 2p - it checked some time on the trip home. Last evening (Sunday at 10p) we started the fridge on propane (after reassembly) and it ran fine until 11a today, then a check light. Tonight I'm going to review steps as it feels that I'm getting close! Will likely disassemble where the burner assembly mounts to the supporting structure and ensure no corrosion between these points.

Now that we have access (to the Internet) I will get some pictures posted to help others understand the referenced items.
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Old 07-29-2013, 09:08 PM   #15
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Most excellent!

If the error code comes on again, it would be good to know how it's failing. Reset the fridge and then go outside and watch while someone turns it on inside. If the burner lights and then goes out after a few (5?) seconds, it's time to take some sandpaper to the electrode (which is also the flame sensor).
Spent tonight checking my work to date. Reassembled the pieces and with battery only tried the fridge on Auto, fired up, solenoid clicked followed by flame within seconds. Turned off the fridge and retried 10 times, same result fired up on propane. Switched the fridge to LP (why not...) and turned on the power, solenoid clicked and within seconds flame. Three (3) attempts no problem. Fourth attempt, solenoid clicked then nothing - silent, no clicking, etc. I could hear the gas entering the burner. Retried a number of times with no success, even switched back to Auto with no luck; through all these tests this was done on battery.

Any thoughts before I replace the lower control board?
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Old 07-29-2013, 09:11 PM   #16
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And if you go back on generator or shore power?
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Old 07-29-2013, 09:21 PM   #17
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And if you go back on generator or shore power?
Connected shore power and fridge switched to AC; fridge was set to Auto. Are you wondering if it would fire on LP when connected to shore power?
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Old 07-29-2013, 09:29 PM   #18
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Connected shore power and fridge switched to AC; fridge was set to Auto. Are you wondering if it would fire on LP when connected to shore power?
Yes, sorry for not being clear.
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Old 07-29-2013, 09:48 PM   #19
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Yes, sorry for not being clear.
No worries, appreciate your assistance.

More data...

On shore power, fridge set to LP, attempted five (5) times, solenoid clicked, could hear gas, no other sounds, did not light.

Turned off shore power, fridge set to Auto, tested three (3) times successfully, fourth attempt failed, solenoid clicked, could hear gas, no other sounds. Further tests failed, attempted three (3) more times.
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Old 07-29-2013, 10:09 PM   #20
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I sure think its the board at this point, but as you said earlier, replacing the electrode first is a cheap thing to try. Let us know how it goes, and good luck!
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