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Old 12-13-2015, 04:23 PM   #21
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Did you find a fuse in the fuse panel marked FURNACE? Did you try a NEW fuse in that slot?
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Old 12-13-2015, 04:50 PM   #22
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That clicking would be the blower motor relay.
The relay contacts could be corroded, loose connection going from relay to blower motor or blower motor is fried.
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Old 12-13-2015, 04:54 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boondocking View Post
That clicking would be the blower motor relay.
The relay contacts could be corroded, loose connection going from relay to blower motor or blower motor is fried.

Where is the relay? I just took off big screen in kitchen where the heater/blower is and didn't see much. Took off two round doors and just looked like where it heats but not the blower. I will get into compartment under trailer and take a look as well and see if I see anything. Wife's not here so I don't have a second hand to switch on and off.


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Old 12-13-2015, 05:03 PM   #24
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Try resetting. Turn heater off ( not just lower thermostat) may have to pull fuse. If it does not start after several tries, it goes into safe mode and will not start until reset by having power turned off.
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Old 12-13-2015, 05:14 PM   #25
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I went outside and opened up the back side and found blower. Flipped the on/off switch a couple times and checked all wires nothing looked burnt or damaged. Leaning towards a bad blower.


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Old 12-13-2015, 05:33 PM   #26
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Try disconnecting the blower wires and hook direct to a 12v battery to see if it is the blower.
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Old 12-13-2015, 08:39 PM   #27
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If the blower doesn't run the sail switch will keep the unit from igniting. There is a 12V fuse in the DC panel for the furnace. I hear clicking before the furnace starts and that is the thermostat system talking to the furnace and AC relay. I can't believe that the motor is bad. That would be my last choice. You can try to power the blower directly from 12V.
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Old 12-13-2015, 09:58 PM   #28
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One more suggestion. Go outside and in the furnace compartment, one by one remove and reattach any wire that has a "slip-on" connector. With 12v, all it takes is a very small amount of corrosion to cause a bad connection causing the furnace to malfunction. Removing and reattaching each wire will scrap away any corrosion that may be present.
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Old 12-13-2015, 11:55 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jacquez707 View Post
Hey everyone
Trying to figure out why when I turn off the generate I no longer have any power or lights. Nothing in trailer works, not heater, fridge, hot water heater, lights or anything. I bough new batteries and still nothing. Check all fuses and control panel and everything looks fine. I own a 2009 Forest River Cardinal 35SBQLE (35LE?)

I also started having issues with heater when generator is on. You can flip to heat and hear a click but it doesn't come on. HELP PLEASE any info or where I should start will be greatly appreciated


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Start
Thermostat Calls
for Heat
The wall thermostat controls the operation of the furnace by reacting to room
temperature, this allows current to flow through the On/Off switch to the module board.
The module board constantly checks for a minimum 9.5 volts. If there is not 9.5 volts,
the module board will go into a stand by mode until adequate power is supplied. It will
then resume normal operation.
Upon a call from the thermostat, the module board thermostat circuit will go active. The
sail switch circuit is verified as being open. The blower output is energized. Blower
motor starts.
15 Seconds Purge
Cycle
The module board will then verify that the sail switch circuit is closed and motor is up
to speed. If this circuit remains open for 30 seconds after the blower motor starts, the
module board will go into lock out and shut down the blower motor.
The module board checks that the gas valve relay contacts (which are located on the
module board) are open before the ignition sequence starts.
The board has a pre-purge timing circuit of (approximately 15 seconds). This allows the
chamber to purge.
7 Seconds Ignition
Cycle and Flame
Sense
The module board will energize the gas valve and enable the high voltage spark output
to the electrode for 7 seconds of ignition time.
The module board will then check for flame sense to verify successful lighting of the
main burner flame. Sparking will then be terminated and the gas valve and blower
outputs will remain energized.
If ignition is successful the module board will monitor the flame sense, sail switch and
limit switch circuits, and the thermostat inputs during the heating period.
The flame is sensed through the spark wire and electrode. Therefore, it is essential that
the electrode is properly positioned in the burner flame.

Hi I copied the above description of operation from the library. It sounds like the module board is going into a stand by mode not letting the furnace system to start. The furnace should shut down and lock out after 30 seconds.

Hope this helps Tim
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Old 12-14-2015, 01:21 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottBrownstein View Post
If the blower doesn't run the sail switch will keep the unit from igniting. There is a 12V fuse in the DC panel for the furnace. I hear clicking before the furnace starts and that is the thermostat system talking to the furnace and AC relay. I can't believe that the motor is bad. That would be my last choice. You can try to power the blower directly from 12V.
When I looked I can't find the furnace fuse. The persons hand writing is horrible and can't read it one bit! All fuses are good though. How do I connect directly to 12v. (Connect to a car battery?)

Quote:
Originally Posted by RSchleder View Post
One more suggestion. Go outside and in the furnace compartment, one by one remove and reattach any wire that has a "slip-on" connector. With 12v, all it takes is a very small amount of corrosion to cause a bad connection causing the furnace to malfunction. Removing and reattaching each wire will scrap away any corrosion that may be present.
I will try this tomorrow when able to check it out.



Quote:
Originally Posted by TimVWulp View Post
Start

Thermostat Calls

for Heat

The wall thermostat controls the operation of the furnace by reacting to room

temperature, this allows current to flow through the On/Off switch to the module board.

The module board constantly checks for a minimum 9.5 volts. If there is not 9.5 volts,

the module board will go into a stand by mode until adequate power is supplied. It will

then resume normal operation.

Upon a call from the thermostat, the module board thermostat circuit will go active. The

sail switch circuit is verified as being open. The blower output is energized. Blower

motor starts.

15 Seconds Purge

Cycle

The module board will then verify that the sail switch circuit is closed and motor is up

to speed. If this circuit remains open for 30 seconds after the blower motor starts, the

module board will go into lock out and shut down the blower motor.

The module board checks that the gas valve relay contacts (which are located on the

module board) are open before the ignition sequence starts.

The board has a pre-purge timing circuit of (approximately 15 seconds). This allows the

chamber to purge.

7 Seconds Ignition

Cycle and Flame

Sense

The module board will energize the gas valve and enable the high voltage spark output

to the electrode for 7 seconds of ignition time.

The module board will then check for flame sense to verify successful lighting of the

main burner flame. Sparking will then be terminated and the gas valve and blower

outputs will remain energized.

If ignition is successful the module board will monitor the flame sense, sail switch and

limit switch circuits, and the thermostat inputs during the heating period.

The flame is sensed through the spark wire and electrode. Therefore, it is essential that

the electrode is properly positioned in the burner flame.



Hi I copied the above description of operation from the library. It sounds like the module board is going into a stand by mode not letting the furnace system to start. The furnace should shut down and lock out after 30 seconds.



Hope this helps Tim

Where is this module board? I haven't found a reset button nor the module board. Guess I'm not fully understanding what this is trying to say


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Old 12-14-2015, 01:55 AM   #31
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The board is located inside the heater unit, mine went bad and had it replaced, it does sound like that is the issue.
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Old 12-14-2015, 02:03 AM   #32
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The board is located inside the heater unit, mine went bad and had it replaced, it does sound like that is the issue.

Is it a DIY fix? Cuz mine isn't able to be moved at the moment. We live in it while our house is being built. So I need to fix myself.


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Old 12-14-2015, 07:33 AM   #33
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IF you can't get it fixed yourself, best bet might be to have a "mobile repair technician" come to your location to trouble shoot and repair your furnace. It can get expensive to start "shotgunning" parts and actually replacing good parts long before you find the culprit.
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Old 12-14-2015, 08:05 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jacquez707 View Post
Is it a DIY fix? Cuz mine isn't able to be moved at the moment. We live in it while our house is being built. So I need to fix myself.


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Hi make sure the TT has a solid 12 volts! Furnace will not run if battery power falls below 9.5 volts to the module board. Is the TT plugged into a 110 volt ac power supply to charge the battery. The furnace is a big power hog and will suck the life out of a battery very quickly. If you have a solid 12 volts from the battery make sure the switch in the thermostat is making contact and supplying 12 volts to the furnace. The white wire on the back side of the thermostat should have 12 volts. It supply's the furnace module board 12 volts to start. If you have 12 volts there is 4 possible problems with the furnace not wanting to start.
1/ fuse blowen to the supply power to the furnace.
2/ You may have an higher end electronic thermostat and is it switch over to heat or the control module in the air conditioner has failed and not commanding the furnace to start.
3/ Sail switch to prove the fan blower is running and moving air is stuck in the closed position. This switch needs to be open no air flow to start the furnace. This is not a very common problem but can happen.
4/ The module board has failed in the furnace.

Hope this helps Tim
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Old 12-14-2015, 01:07 PM   #35
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To power blower directly, disconnect it from circuit board and connect to a " car battery ". This will tell you if the blower is working or not. It sounds like the relay for the blower is energizing, that is why I suspect the blower is faulty.
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Old 12-20-2015, 08:06 PM   #36
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Did you get it fixed? Curious the problem
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Old 12-21-2015, 12:09 AM   #37
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No gone for holidays will figure it out after new year. Will keep you all posted.


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Old 12-21-2015, 12:40 AM   #38
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Go outside and turn fan motor 1/4 turn and try starting furnace again. Could be a dead spot on the motor. If the furnace does start you will need to replace the motor.
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