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Old 07-27-2017, 02:19 PM   #1
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Norcold flame out

The problem is the refrigerator won't stay lit while traveling, works fine while sitting still..both gas and electric..once I'm on the road the flame goes out. The model is a N306RM8..I asked the dealer about maybe an air deflector of sorts and that got me nowhere..any suggestions? Checked the flame and it appears to be at the proper setting...
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Old 07-29-2017, 11:52 PM   #2
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Is the flame shroud in place?
Gas psi set correctly 10.5-11"
Regulator

Refrig location? Rear/Sides
Roof exhaust or 2x slide vents
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Old 07-30-2017, 02:53 AM   #3
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All metal work is in place( Have to open flap to see flame)..fridge is on driver's side(street side) has an upper and lower vent..no exhaust on top. Do not have a W/C gauge, however the other appliances operate fine..as I said in the post the flame is the correct color and appears to be at the proper height.
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Old 07-30-2017, 07:31 AM   #4
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Yes it sounds me as if this is a wind or vibration issue. Have you tied to blow the flame out several times to see if the flame relights?
Battery voltage ok in trailer while traveling? 10.5 vdc minimum required.
Vibration issues will be hard to find. Do a wire wiggle test to se if you can duplicate. Have you tried the other propane tank if a two tank system? Although the flame may look proper the refrigs only have a 1,500 Btu flame where the WH and furnace have 12,000-30,000 btu's. The stovetop flames are even much larger. I guess after traveling the fault led is illuminated? What temperature is the refrig at after traveling.
All this info is helpful since dealer seems to be no help.
Please Advise, Thank You
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Old 07-30-2017, 07:43 AM   #5
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Doing research on your profile it appears 2017 Pup.
Although very new have you removed the burner tube to inspect for debris/spider webs? You would be amazed at the very little contamination that is needed to cause faults.
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Old 07-30-2017, 01:00 PM   #6
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The bad thing is this norcold model does not offer the electronic ignition..it's the push button until it lights type..had it been the other it would probably relight on it's own...I will probably have to try a norcold tech and see if they have a solution..
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Old 07-30-2017, 01:17 PM   #7
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Being a 2017 it should have a 2 year warranty. This warranty will not cover routine maintenance as ( cleaning & adjusting )
Please advise of your findings. Knowing it is a pllot light system I am going to lead towards gas psi. 10.5-11" WC = 1/2#
Although it may look normal can you tell what 7" is vs 10.5-11" WC?
Good Luck
In the mean time if needed install an inverter to get by the travellng problem; unless this is a 3 way.
Note: 12vdc service will draw 25 amps if it has a 300 watt element.
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Old 07-30-2017, 01:24 PM   #8
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Thanks for the info..have been considering an inverter..however I only travel about 4 hours at a time and the fridge holds it temp. Thanks again..
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Old 07-30-2017, 01:48 PM   #9
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You have been "gifted" with a continuous run fridge without auto-ignition. This type of fridge is usually installed in standard-height pop-ups and a-frames. Which means it also does not have thermostatic control on propane - the dial controls the amount of propane going to the flame and nothing more.

Back to the issue of the flame blowing out while driving - this is quite normal in the pop-up and a-frame world. Because the fridge is continuous run and small in size, the burner size is smaller than the normal TT fridges. Airflow through the vents is sufficient to blow the flame out, especially if there is any wind from the "wrong" direction.

Both my previous Coleman pop-up and my current a-frame will not stay lit while driving - I know because I have tried it.

The answer is to run the fridge on DC while driving, then switch to AC or propane at the campsite (AC if you have electric available). To avoid running the camper battery down make sure your tow vehicle alternator is getting enough voltage to the battery. Measure voltage to the RV battery with the tow vehicle connected and running, fridge running on DC. You should see at least 13.2V, which means your tow vehicle alternator is powering the fridge on DC.

hope this helps
Fred W
2014 Rockwood A122 A-frame
2008 Hyundai Entourage minivan
camping Colorado and adjacent states one weekend at a time
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Old 07-30-2017, 02:00 PM   #10
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Thank you for the information Fred...the thing is this is a 2 way fridge..AC or propane..I guess since I have been "gifted" with this type I will just have to put up with it, unless I choose to install an inverter. Other than the gas problem the unit seems to do a fine job keeping the food cold....thanks again..
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Old 07-30-2017, 05:32 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjbob View Post
Thank you for the information Fred...the thing is this is a 2 way fridge..AC or propane..I guess since I have been "gifted" with this type I will just have to put up with it, unless I choose to install an inverter. Other than the gas problem the unit seems to do a fine job keeping the food cold....thanks again..
I'm sorry Forest River cheaped out so on you. It's a tiny fridge to begin with, and to leave off the DC option, is just plain being cheap. My opinion.

Put something frozen in the fridge when traveling to help it hold.

Since you don't have thermostatic control on propane, I strongly recommend a battery-powered wireless outdoor thermometer to monitor fridge temp. Mine was $10 at Walmart. I can receive the thermometer temperature in the front seat of my minivan when towing so that I can take action if need be. And I use it to adjust the propane flow when camping. This is my 2nd year with the thermometer, and I'm still on my 1st set of batteries (I take the batteries out when we get home from a trip).

Please enjoy your camper.

Fred W
2014 Rockwood A122 A-frame
2008 Hyundai Entourage minivan
camping Colorado and adjacent states one weekend at a time
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