Power Convertor noise when loaded

DualSport · 08-18-2012, 05:04 PM

.. and other problems. We just got our 2012 Lacrosse 301RES last week and did a shakedown test this week. Before I refer the issues to the dealer I'd like to see if others have had similar problems:
1) Refrigerator will only work on 120V with settings of ON, and AUTO. I tried ON and GAS and it seems to work as the CHECK light goes on for a second as so (indicating the propane hasn't yet ignited) and then goes out, but the fridge does not cool. In fact it ran on 120V for 4 days, switched to propane for drive home and all the frozen stuff melted.
2) The Power Convertor seems normal until 4-5 lamps are ON, and then the next lamp starts a buzzing noise in the convertor compartment. Switch light off and noise disappears. As more load is drawn the noise becomes louder, eventually (with Audio System, fireplace and most lights on) it's unbearable (sounds like you're in a small toilet with the exhaust fan running). Didn't open up the convertor so don't know if it is a fan or if it's a transformer humming. (other posts seem to indicate this convertor (WF-8900?) has a cooling fan.
3) Insufficient water flow to use the use the shower with the head on the wall mount (i.e. water doesn't reach you). Other taps and outside shower don't have this problem).
4) the E-Stone counter top has a substantial crack (and surface damage) behind the faucet. Is this material repairable or should I insist on a replacement countertop?

In general we were really pleased with the new trailer and like almost everything about it (except access for making the bed, and cracking my head on the medicine cabinet when trying to use the inadequate sink

). We got many compliments from fellow campers.

Thanks
Bob

great white · 08-19-2012, 06:23 AM

My 2011 831rlbss converter will run what sounds like a fan once I've got enough power draw on it. I would suspect it's shedding heat from the conversion process.

For the ecoat, it sounds mostly like a paint like product:

Praxis Group LLC - E-Stone Countertops

If it's cracked on a 2012, you're probably still under the 1 year warranty. I'd take it back to the dealer for repair/replacement....

**Herk7769** · 08-19-2012, 06:43 AM

"1) Refrigerator will only work on 120V with settings of ON, and AUTO. I tried ON and GAS and it seems to work as the CHECK light goes on for a second as so (indicating the propane hasn't yet ignited) and then goes out, but the fridge does not cool. In fact it ran on 120V for 4 days, switched to propane for drive home and all the frozen stuff melted."

If it works fine on 120VAC ; the check light comes on and goes out when on propane; your problem is not electrical or the availability of propane.

Since the check light goes out, the flame that heats the boiler is lighting (and staying lit). What is not happening is the "cooling part".

Does it cool fine on propane when you are level and stationary?

IF "NO" (I am betting):

You might have a blocked flue. The heat from the burning propane could be escaping out the bottom of the burner and not up the chimney. This could happen even on a new camper if wasps (or "Mud Daubers") built a nest in the flue.

The electric heater does not need the flue to be effective.

or maybe

the over temp heat sensor could be shutting off the power to the solenoid for a variety of reasons (some really important to track down). If the metal is hot enough in the burner area, the control board may think the flame is still lit when it is not.

**Herk7769** · 08-19-2012, 06:47 AM

2) The Power Convertor seems normal until 4-5 lamps are ON, and then the next lamp starts a buzzing noise in the convertor compartment. Switch light off and noise disappears. As more load is drawn the noise becomes louder, eventually (with Audio System, fireplace and most lights on) it's unbearable (sounds like you're in a small toilet with the exhaust fan running). Didn't open up the convertor so don't know if it is a fan or if it's a transformer humming. (other posts seem to indicate this convertor (WF-8900?) has a cooling fan.

Yep, there is a cooling fan in there that only runs when the converter needs cooling as the load demand increases. It may be touching a wire or just have a bad bearing. There was a rash of complaints about this last year then it slowed down. The WF-8900 does have a cooling fan.

**Herk7769** · 08-19-2012, 06:50 AM

3) Insufficient water flow to use the use the shower with the head on the wall mount (i.e. water doesn't reach you). Other taps and outside shower don't have this problem).

Sometimes trash gets in the lines and can block one or more faucets (worst case is it blocks the toilet flush valve).

You (or your dealer since it is under warranty) will need to remove the valve stems and flush out the lines. Worst case for you is it will need replacement.

**Herk7769** · 08-19-2012, 06:54 AM

4) the E-Stone counter top has a substantial crack (and surface damage) behind the faucet. Is this material repairable or should I insist on a replacement countertop?

Was it delivered this way and you just noticed it? (warranty replacement)

It cracked "all by itself"? (Possible warranty replacement if the counter was incorrectly installed and normal trailer flexing twisted the countertop and it cracked.)

Did someone drop a pot on it. (not a warranty issue, IMO)

Witch Doctor · 08-19-2012, 08:01 AM

We had the same problem with the shower head installed. I have replaced it with a new model that uses air and water that mix's in the head. It will use have the gals. per minute that the factory install uses. My pressure doubled or tripled with less water. The thing is that you need to buy a shut off button that will not come with the unit. Camping World sells them, but the only button they sell fits at the sink. I checked and got one at West Marine that works at the shower head. The head cost about $40.00 and comes with the hose.

**Herk7769** · 08-19-2012, 08:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gljurczyk

We had the same problem with the shower head installed. I have replaced it with a new model that uses air and water that mix's in the head. It will use have the gals. per minute that the factory install uses. My pressure doubled or tripled with less water. The thing is that you need to buy a shut off button that will not come with the unit. Camping World sells them, but the only button they sell fits at the sink. I checked and got one at West Marine that works at the shower head. The head cost about $40.00 and comes with the hose.

Which one are you using?

Witch Doctor · 08-19-2012, 08:10 AM

My dealer is replacing my converter for the same reasons you posted, mine will pulse and get louder as it stays on. The dealer didn't even check when I told him about it, he said we will replace the unit, hence they know of the problem no more questions asked, the factory has sent him the new unit, hope it is better. Also my FR 5er is new

Witch Doctor · 08-19-2012, 08:16 AM

Herk, It is a Oxygenics Body Spa, just look up shower heads at Camping World, but I will swear by it.

**Herk7769** · 08-19-2012, 08:25 AM

Yep. Had one too.

SAVE YOUR RECEIPT.
They are guaranteed for life WITH the receipt.
Mine snapped off at the threads.

Have not gotten around to replacing my "emergency" repair replacement.

great white · 08-19-2012, 09:35 AM

Shower head link for the "google-y" challenged:

Oxygenics Body Spa RV Showerhead - the best rv shower faucet Camping World - Oxygenics Body Spa RV Showerhead - the best rv shower faucet - Product - Camping World

DualSport · 08-19-2012, 09:33 PM

Thanks for all your comments. I won't be fixing any of the problems myself as this is a new trailer - yes, it's a 2012 but it's still new and my Warranty only started a week ago when we picked it up.

I've never used this dealer before so I felt I needed some background info from other FR and/or PT owners before I take it in next week to discuss the issues.

The fridge issue is the most intriguing. It won't cool on propane either while stationary and level or when driving (i.e. it was on for 4 hours while loading and 4 hours driving but there was no cooling - and the return journey was after 5 days of 120V use). It quickly started cooling when the 120V plugged in at the campground. The documentation says the unit cools to a factory pre-set temp, implying it's not user adjustable, yet there is a slider unit (looks like a temp sensor) on the right side cooling fin and a label indicating Up for Cooler, Down for Warmer, and I moved it to the Coolest position. There is no Check light when it's on propane, either on AUTO or GAS, but I don't see how the propane burner can be on without the unit cooling. Anyway, the dealer can figure it out.

Thanks again for all the helpful comments.

Bob

**Herk7769** · 08-19-2012, 10:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DualSport

There is no Check light when it's on propane, either on AUTO or GAS, but I don't see how the propane burner can be on without the unit cooling. Anyway, the dealer can figure it out.Bob

See my 7:43 post. My guess is still the blocked flue (primary) or a bad controller board (secondary).

DualSport · 08-19-2012, 10:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by herk7769

See my 7:43 post. My guess is still the blocked flue (primary) or a bad controller board (secondary).

I did see it, thanks, but I don't want to investigate if it's a blocked flue or a control board as it's a Warranty issue.

Thanks
Bob

**Herk7769** · 08-20-2012, 06:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DualSport

I did see it, thanks, but I don't want to investigate if it's a blocked flue or a control board as it's a Warranty issue.

Thanks
Bob

The blocked flue will not be a warranty issue. If wasps built a nest in there it will be an expensive fix at the shop rate of 150 an hour.

Nests can be quite big; just overnight.