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Old 04-02-2011, 06:33 AM   #31
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I have found that the connectors used, crimp type wire nuts, are often poorly made up. The wire is stripped, twisted together, and then a wire nut type crimp is placed over the twisted wire and crimped. I have done electronic work on yachts and RVs for a living. By the wires being left to "dangle", not being securely and properly tied up, the movement and bouncing of the wire's weight starts to pull the wires loose in the crimp type wire nuts. Another issue is with the installer not stripping the coating from the wire far enough back and twisting them together and the wires not making contact with each other. The connection looks "good" but electricly it is not. Without using an OHM meter (commonly available at any hardware store as a Digital Volt Meter (DVM) ensuring that it has OHM setting), as cheap as $10.00. Speakers are commonly 4 Ohm or 8 Ohm (have seen 6 Ohm and 2 Ohm but rare). Remove the connections from the sound system, connect your ohm meter between the 2 wires going to the speaker (don't let your fingers touch the probes or the wires). If you meter shows "OL" or there is no change, then you have an "OPEN" (no connection). If you get 0.00, you have a "short". If you read ~ 4 Ohms or ~ 8 Ohms then you are good. Check all speakers this way and they should be all close to the same reading. As you prove one good, remake the connections using good butt connectors (crimp barrels of proper size). Soldering and heat shrinking is the absolute best method, but not practical. Now you have proved out the speakers, the wiring and the connectors. This sounds like a long process, but it is probably the quickest way to to rule out possible issues with one test. The battery test is good, but the speaker will tend to pop even with a poor connection. I was very disappointed in the "behind the scenes" or our TT (bought new last year). I have seen this poor wiring with all the RVs and many of the production boats being made. I suggest that when all is working again, that you securely wire tie the wires to help prevent problems in the future. Good luck.
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Old 04-03-2011, 12:19 PM   #32
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I am trying to get my father to stop by again with his meter. I am positive its the MOSFETS in the stereo for the rear channel that is the problem.
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Old 04-06-2011, 11:35 AM   #33
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there is zero current flow to the rear speakers. they still work, but there is no power to them.
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Old 04-07-2011, 06:29 AM   #34
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You shouldn't read current to a speaker. I don't think you would get voltage on a home, car/RV system (I don't recall ever trying). There is a 70 volt system used in stores, hospitals, etc.. but that is for sound not quality using lot's of speakers. The best way I know of, been taught, and have used for many years is a resistance/impeadence measurment (ohms). Most speakers are marked with what they are, 8 Ohm, maybe 4 Ohm. BTW the symbol for Ohms is the Greek Letter Omega (looks lik a hoseshoue with the opening down).
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Old 04-07-2011, 10:20 AM   #35
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yup. know how all that works. even for gigles we hooked up a working speaker last night to the rear and still nothing out of the rear. put rear speaker up front and it works fine. so it is not the speakers themselves.
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Old 04-10-2011, 06:45 PM   #36
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also noting random speaker crackling
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Old 04-28-2011, 11:36 AM   #37
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Dealership called me today. New stereo is being mailed out to me as a replacement.
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Old 06-05-2011, 02:07 AM   #38
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new unit arrived!

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Old 06-05-2011, 06:53 AM   #39
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Hey...

Thats not fair, your got you one of them thar new fangled Genesis units.

All kidding aside, let us know how it works for you with all the new features. It is a pretty fine looking unit.

Hope you enjoy it.
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Old 06-05-2011, 11:23 AM   #40
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yar it has HDMI in/out something. funny thing it didnt come with a manual lol. dealership is bugging me to return the old one. told them i havent get it switched around yet lol. need to bug the father for some crimps and get it done. hopefully today. just sucks my stereo and tv are on opposite sides of a patio door...
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