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Old 03-13-2016, 06:05 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ornery View Post
Hello,
I saw your post about fans in the chimney. How does one do that AND power them?
Thanks,
John

There's a 12v power source in the access panel on the outside.



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Old 03-13-2016, 06:55 PM   #22
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The Dometic RV (gas/electric) fridge in our 2011 Georgetown 327DS wouldn't cool below 50F with the propane burner running 100% of the time when we took delivery of the new unit. There was nothing wrong with the fridge. There's space on both sides of it and around 6" of dead space above it. When that side of the rv was facing the sun, the space around the fridge was a heat trap with temps well over 110. There was just too much heat being applied to the outside of the case for the cooling unit to keep up.

The dealer pulled the fridge and installed fiberglass insulation panels on the sides and above it. It immediately started cooling properly on both gas and electricity.

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Old 03-13-2016, 07:23 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Stank Bait View Post
"since those fins just pull the cold from the cooling plate i would think to much air on them would hurt the efficiency of the fin"

Would like to know the reasoning ??? Just asking.
More air flow over fins, or any other surface, will always increase the heat exchange rate. It does eventually become a diminishing returns factor.
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Old 03-13-2016, 07:28 PM   #24
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DSQR's post, #11, is interesting information. My refrigerator is a Dometic DM2652. The nameplate gives "1500 BTU/hr (440 watts)" but does not list the LP burner rating. If someone can come up with the burner rating for a DM2652, that would help.

I was hoping someone could point to a rigorous test of gas vs. electric modes. Our Sunseeker is in storage so I can't run it on one, let it sit not running to warm back up, then run it on the other, to get a good comparison.
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Old 03-13-2016, 07:54 PM   #25
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Agree moving air helps to cool faster and keep a more consistent temperature. It would be nice if the makers of adsorption fridges would incorporate a fan that would come on and shut off when the fridge ran to cool things.

If you take an infrared temperature gun the fin area is below freezing in the fridge section that is why it eventually frost up. Being able to move that excess temperature to other areas of the fridge by a fan makes it more efficient.
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Old 03-13-2016, 07:57 PM   #26
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Where did you tag the 12v inside the fridge?


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Old 03-13-2016, 07:57 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by RamblerGuy View Post
DSQR's post, #11, is interesting information. My refrigerator is a Dometic DM2652. The nameplate gives "1500 BTU/hr (440 watts)" but does not list the LP burner rating. If someone can come up with the burner rating for a DM2652, that would help.

I was hoping someone could point to a rigorous test of gas vs. electric modes. Our Sunseeker is in storage so I can't run it on one, let it sit not running to warm back up, then run it on the other, to get a good comparison.
Same one I have, still trying to find the LP burner input. I have spec's from my last RV that had a Norcold in it. I may email Dometic and ask that question, as well as what the LP consumption rate should be. I can figure out electrical draw pretty easily with a kill-a-watt, not so easy on LP.

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Old 03-14-2016, 09:26 AM   #28
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a fan in the fridge helps , not ? that . it seems to much air would cause it to take longer to cool as you would be transferring more warm air over the fins then could be transferred by the cooling plate and fins . eventually it would all catch up . again IMO a smaller fan moving air slower over the fins would allow things to cool faster .
it would be like taking the Tstat out of your car radiator the water would move to fast slowing heat up time and then once up to temp allow the water to move to fast through the radiator to get it cooled off which can cause over heating
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Old 03-14-2016, 09:42 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by Kenny kustom View Post
Where did you tag the 12v inside the fridge?
Interior light or run the wiring out through the drain tube.
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Old 03-14-2016, 09:48 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by northstar1960 View Post
a fan in the fridge helps , not ? that . it seems to much air would cause it to take longer to cool as you would be transferring more warm air over the fins then could be transferred by the cooling plate and fins . eventually it would all catch up . again IMO a smaller fan moving air slower over the fins would allow things to cool faster .
it would be like taking the Tstat out of your car radiator the water would move to fast slowing heat up time and then once up to temp allow the water to move to fast through the radiator to get it cooled off which can cause over heating
As Turbs said, don't overthink it.
These fans that attach to the interior fins do no move a lot of air, just enough to gently circulate the air inside the box. They work great!
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Old 03-14-2016, 10:19 AM   #31
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Refrigerator - Gas or Electric Cools Better?

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Originally Posted by Kenny kustom View Post
Where did you tag the 12v inside the fridge?


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Outside fans.
Lower left hand of outside fridge compartment.
There's a black cover on a box, inside you'll find a 12v circuit that is live when fridge is on and dead when fridge is off.

For the inside fridge fans use the power for the light.

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Old 03-14-2016, 10:41 PM   #32
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Ok, so do these fans work all thw time, or only when light is on. Im confused ?
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Old 03-14-2016, 10:56 PM   #33
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Ok, so do these fans work all thw time, or only when light is on. Im confused ?
All the time. Power is taken from the supply side of the switch, not the load side.
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Old 03-15-2016, 05:23 AM   #34
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Ok, so do these fans work all thw time, or only when light is on. Im confused ?
I put my outside fans on thermostats, inside fan I use an alligator clip on the negative side for quick disconnect. If it is cool outside and the fridge is holding a decent temp I will disconnect the inside fan. I monitor my fridge and freezer temps with the Accu-Rite wireless system. I liked them so well I bought a couple for the house fridges too.

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Old 03-15-2016, 06:52 AM   #35
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The interior fans are on as long as the fridge is on, there is also an on/off switch on fan bracket to manually turn fans off.
The exterior fans are on a thermostat but are also only on as long as fridge is turned on.


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Old 03-15-2016, 06:54 AM   #36
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Fans are easy to install I used two snap discs to control 12v to fans, one on boiler of fridge a 150* snap disc controls power supply to fans and one at fans 90*up in the chimney. This way the fans only run if the fridge is turned and hot and not when fridge is off and the sun is beating on the side wall heating the compartment to above 90*
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Old 03-15-2016, 06:59 PM   #37
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Nice! Tnx guys. Next mod on the list
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Old 03-19-2016, 03:23 PM   #38
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http://www.amazon.com/Valterra-A10-2...s=valterra+fan

Works great for me, has a T- stat comes on at a certain temp.


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Old 03-19-2016, 03:39 PM   #39
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dometic-Refr...hS5BW9&vxp=mtr

Here is another good one!


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Old 03-19-2016, 03:40 PM   #40
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http://www.snip-the-tip.com/

And another!


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