Refrigerator Not Cooling

[wnishimoto]

I have a 2016 Georgetown RV and the refrigerator is not cooling -- I tried to reset the refrigerator, tried using propane only, and tried using the generator only. Nothing seem to get the refrigerator to start. Any recommendations?

[donniedu]

Brand? Model?
Turn it on on the control panel.
Unless it is a residential refer it requires 12VDC before it will operate. So start there with a volt meter.

[Bama Rambler]

Answer Donnies question first.

Are there any lights on the front panel?

[wnishimoto]

Yes the light goes on when I select the on button with the Auto cycle however the refrigerator does not get cool.

[donniedu]

How long are you waiting. Generally speaking you need to wait 24 hours before loading food. 6 to 8 hours and you should feel the bottom of the freezer section getting cold.

[M&K Hoffman]

Good luck.... I have searched many, many threads here and on other forums and the answers all generally the same and not helpful if you have the same problem I am having. I have a Dometic DM2652LBX refrigerator that I have had problems with it not get cool enough the last three uses. Started Memorial Day week-end running in the low 40's with outside temps mid to upper 80's. Had nearly the same conditions 5 nights in mid July except the refrigerator temps were getting into upper 40's. Just returned from 8 nights at our county fair with daytime temps. mid to upper 80's and night temps low 70's and the refrigerator ran in the upper 50's. Darn good thing there is lots of fair food to consume because we ended up tossing most everything in the refrigerator. Yes I tried it on 120 vac power and on LPG and conditions were identical. Yes trailer was level. Checked the thermistor today and at ~76 degrees it read 3.058K ohms and immersed in ice water for at least 1/2 hour it read 7.07K ohms. Not exactly what the chart calls for, but seems "in the ballpark" and is definitely changing with temp. I just located a test where you disconnect the heater from the circuit board and apply 120 vac directly to the heater. Let it run 10 to 12 hours and if it get cold, it's a control problem.

[Paul GA]

My heat element in my DMR 702 ran constant three days and wouldn't cool. Domestic refused to fix under warranty. Apparently is OK to make a box and call it a refrigerator and charge $1500 for it and it doesn't cool anything.
Replaced with residential fridge.

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by M&K Hoffman

Good luck.... I have searched many, many threads here and on other forums and the answers all generally the same and not helpful if you have the same problem I am having. I have a Dometic DM2652LBX refrigerator that I have had problems with it not get cool enough the last three uses. Started Memorial Day week-end running in the low 40's with outside temps mid to upper 80's. Had nearly the same conditions 5 nights in mid July except the refrigerator temps were getting into upper 40's. Just returned from 8 nights at our county fair with daytime temps. mid to upper 80's and night temps low 70's and the refrigerator ran in the upper 50's. Darn good thing there is lots of fair food to consume because we ended up tossing most everything in the refrigerator. Yes I tried it on 120 vac power and on LPG and conditions were identical. Yes trailer was level. Checked the thermistor today and at ~76 degrees it read 3.058K ohms and immersed in ice water for at least 1/2 hour it read 7.07K ohms. Not exactly what the chart calls for, but seems "in the ballpark" and is definitely changing with temp. I just located a test where you disconnect the heater from the circuit board and apply 120 vac directly to the heater. Let it run 10 to 12 hours and if it get cold, it's a control problem.

I've got a Dometic DM2652LBX and it was running like yours. I installed two of these and it performed much better. Air flow is key.

https://www.coolerguys.com/products/...3-speed-switch

[Annb54]

I am very new to the RV world and my refrigerator just stopped cooling lights on the front are on but nothing have tried both electric and propane no fuses blown any ideas I have a sunseeker motorhome with Domestic fridge

[Bama Rambler]

Did you check the fuses on the fridge control board?

There's a hi temp cutout on the side of the flue. It may be the problem.

[ShermanD]

Originally Posted by Annb54

I am very new to the RV world and my refrigerator just stopped cooling lights on the front are on but nothing have tried both electric and propane no fuses blown any ideas I have a sunseeker motorhome with Domestic fridge

is the temperature probe still in its little white holder in the upper right corner of the fridge or has it fallen down on one of the shelves. You can only push the white slide up so far before it will fall out and the lower it is in the fridge the warmer the fridge will be. It happens, i'm living proof

We have a 2017 Sunseeker MBS 2400 WS with a Dometic DM 2652RBX dual fuel fridge and it works just fine, BUT like others have said it takes a minimum of 24 hours to cool down to working temperature under normal conditions. That time can be lowered by storing up gallon jugs of frozen water and then putting them in the fridge and freezer when you start it up prior to an outing

This fridge works like a basic gravity feed heat pump. there is a chimney with a coil inside and both a gas burner and an electric heating element at the bottom. The burners heat the liquid in the coil to a gaseous state, it rises up passes through the freezer/fridge and pulls the heat out. in doing so it turns back into a liquid, flows down the pipe, gets heated again and the cycle continues.

The easiest way to see if it is operating properly is to open the access panel on the outside of the RV. If the chimney is hot, the fridge is working. The hotter it is outside/inside, the longer it takes to cool the fridge.

Keep the fridge/freezer full once it has cooled down and it doesn't have to work as hard.

Since we are leaving Friday afternoon on a weekend adventure, I went out about an hour ago and started the fridge on electric. (I keep my RV hooked to shore power the entire time it is stored behind our pole barn) I just went out and opened the access hatch and felt the metal chimney to ensure it was hot. It was so I know the fridge/freezer is working.

I will wait till tomorrow afternoon to load the beverages and bottled water into the fridge and then Friday morning I will load all the food stuffs and frozen goodies we have planned for the weekend.

Remember it IS NOT a residential fridge, it DOES NOT have a circulating refrigerant pump so it TAKES LONGER to cool but it is MUCH CHEAPER to run.

Hope this is of some help and provides you with a bit of an understanding on how your RV fridge works.

[Ky-N]

Originally Posted by Paul GA

My heat element in my DMR 702 ran constant three days and wouldn't cool. Domestic refused to fix under warranty. Apparently is OK to make a box and call it a refrigerator and charge $1500 for it and it doesn't cool anything.

Yes and they are getting away with it everyday.

[Paul GA]

Originally Posted by Ky-N

Yes and they are getting away with it everyday.

I'm done with Dometic products

[Ky-N]

We are almost there, being done with Dometic. If this last attempt to get it working fails it will be replaced by an Isotherm.