Refrigerator not running

[JerseyVic]

Woke up this morning to our frig and closest out let not working. We are plugged in to shore power, and have been here a month. I checked and reset the breaker, no fuse issues. I went out and turned on the inverter in the basement that’s used when we are traveling and the frig came back on and is running. Any ideas? 2017 Wildwood Heritage Glen BAR 337 5th wheel. Thanks in advance!

[dmdrj5]

Hi JerseyVic,

If there is a GFI outlet in line with the refrigerator outlet, check it to see if it is tripped.

Good Luck,
Don

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by dmdrj5

Hi JerseyVic,

If there is a GFI outlet in line with the refrigerator outlet, check it to see if it is tripped.

Good Luck,
Don

^^^^^ This. The fact that both the refer and the nearby outlet are "dead" is usually a giveaway it's the GFCI "upstream". Start in the bathroom outlet and press reset button in middle of outlet.



Side Note:

GFCI's were designed and mandated to save lives. However, the amount of stress they can cause may well lead to shortened lives.

[JerseyVic]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

^^^^^ This. The fact that both the refer and the nearby outlet are "dead" is usually a giveaway it's the GFCI "upstream". Start in the bathroom outlet and press reset button in middle of outlet.







Side Note:



GFCI's were designed and mandated to save lives. However, the amount of stress they can cause may well lead to shortened lives.

Not a GFCI outlet, they all work, I reset it anyway just to be sure. I’m thinking of replacing the breaker, thoughts?

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by JerseyVic

Not a GFCI outlet, they all work, I reset it anyway just to be sure. I’m thinking of replacing the breaker, thoughts?

Does the breaker only supply the Refrigerator and closest outlet? If nothing else you MIGHT have a bad breaker but in all my RV's I've never had a breaker fail unless the terminal was left loose and it burned under load.

Remember, GFCI outlets can be anywhere and also supply power to other outlets (like the one the refrigerator is plugged into.

RV mfr's don't provide any wiring diagrams that show their locations even though they are the most frequent causes of partial power loss. Diagrams should be required by law

My educated guess is that somewhere along the power supply to the refrigerator there's a GFCI outlet. Perhaps in an outside compartment even.

Other possibility is a loose connection at power panel neutral bus. Not a bad idea to open the power panel (remove cover) and take a screwdriver to each screw securing all the white wires. For some reason they don't always get tightened properly and some aren't tightened at all.

If you have a multimeter you can start tracing power. If present at the terminal on the refrigerator breaker the breaker is not the problem.

[JerseyVic]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

Does the breaker only supply the Refrigerator and closest outlet? If nothing else you MIGHT have a bad breaker but in all my RV's I've never had a breaker fail unless the terminal was left loose and it burned under load.



Remember, GFCI outlets can be anywhere and also supply power to other outlets (like the one the refrigerator is plugged into.



RV mfr's don't provide any wiring diagrams that show their locations even though they are the most frequent causes of partial power loss. Diagrams should be required by law



My educated guess is that somewhere along the power supply to the refrigerator there's a GFCI outlet. Perhaps in an outside compartment even.



Other possibility is a loose connection at power panel neutral bus. Not a bad idea to open the power panel (remove cover) and take a screwdriver to each screw securing all the white wires. For some reason they don't always get tightened properly and some aren't tightened at all.



If you have a multimeter you can start tracing power. If present at the terminal on the refrigerator breaker the breaker is not the problem.

Thanks for your help, I checked the breaker w/meter it has power ( I also checked all the other breakers in case it was miss marked). I’ll check the ground screws next. I agree about the GFCI but I can’t find another one. I can’t get to the refrigerator plug without pulling it out of its cavity. I think I’m going to have to call someone on this one.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by JerseyVic

Woke up this morning to our frig and closest out let not working. We are plugged in to shore power, and have been here a month. I checked and reset the breaker, no fuse issues. I went out and turned on the inverter in the basement that’s used when we are traveling and the frig came back on and is running. Any ideas? 2017 Wildwood Heritage Glen BAR 337 5th wheel. Thanks in advance!

Since you said the outlet and the refrigerator work when you turned on the inverter, I'd start there. Sounds like something wrong with the auto-switching circuitry or the circuit that feeds into the inverter.

[dalford]

Originally Posted by 5picker

Since you said the outlet and the refrigerator work when you turned on the inverter, I'd start there. Sounds like something wrong with the auto-switching circuitry or the circuit that feeds into the inverter.

I agree with 5picker.. if the breaker has power in/out then the out goes to and into the inverter and when inverter is off just passes thru. Seems the inverter transfer function may not be operating.

My inverter has the ac from shore power from the breaker panel hard wired at the back of the inverter. Check that all the connections are good and that you have 120 volts there. One of the wire nuts may have lost connection. If you do it seems the inverter may be defective.

[dannyabear]

Go outside, remove the lower cover for the fridge, and check for power at the receptacle it is pluged into

[dalford]

Originally Posted by dannyabear

Go outside, remove the lower cover for the fridge, and check for power at the receptacle it is pluged into

Most residential fridges RVs don’t have access panels on the outside. No need for it as there is nothing to access from the rear.

[dannyabear]

I didn't see where OP stated it was a residential fridge...

[dalford]

Originally Posted by dannyabear

I didn't see where OP stated it was a residential fridge...

He said inverter and ac outlets. Propane/electric fridges don’t operate from ac voltage. They operate on Propane and or batteries so he must have a residential fridge...

[rracer5]

Originally Posted by dalford

He said inverter and ac outlets. Propane/electric fridges don’t operate from ac voltage. They operate on Propane and or batteries so he must have a residential fridge...

Propane/12v for control panel operation (switching from propane to 120v a/c) , igniter & propane valve operation. 120v a/c when plugged into shore power/generator.

So, you're partially right. But also, the OP doesn't tell us whether it operates on propane/12v so, we still don't know EXACTLY which type of refer he has.

If residential, no outside vent panels to remove to gain access because residentials don't need outside venting.

But, with mention of an inverter and no mention of propane side, I will tend to lean in the residential refer side. So for that reason and the testing OP has already done, I agree that there is a problem in the inverter/transfer switch itself.

[dalford]

Originally Posted by rracer5

Propane/12v for control panel operation (switching from propane to 120v a/c) , igniter & propane valve operation. 120v a/c when plugged into shore power/generator.

So, you're partially right. But also, the OP doesn't tell us whether it operates on propane/12v so, we still don't know EXACTLY which type of refer he has.

If residential, no outside vent panels to remove to gain access because residentials don't need outside venting.

But, with mention of an inverter and no mention of propane side, I will tend to lean in the residential refer side. So for that reason and the testing OP has already done, I agree that there is a problem in the inverter/transfer switch itself.

You’re right about the ac... just after I posted I realized I was wrong...

[JerseyVic]

Originally Posted by dalford

You’re right about the ac... just after I posted I realized I was wrong...

It is residential and there is no access from outside the unit. I’m still having the issue. I’m thinking it’s an inverter issue not allowing power to pass through when the inverter is off.

[JerseyVic]

Originally Posted by dalford

I agree with 5picker.. if the breaker has power in/out then the out goes to and into the inverter and when inverter is off just passes thru. Seems the inverter transfer function may not be operating.

My inverter has the ac from shore power from the breaker panel hard wired at the back of the inverter. Check that all the connections are good and that you have 120 volts there. One of the wire nuts may have lost connection. If you do it seems the inverter may be defective.

Thanks I think you’re pointing me in the right direction. All connections seem good, do you think it’s the inverter itself that needs to be replaced?

[5picker]

Originally Posted by JerseyVic

It is residential and there is no access from outside the unit. I’m still having the issue. I’m thinking it’s an inverter issue not allowing power to pass through when the inverter is off.

Since it's a residential and you are still having issues, if you can access where the refrigerator plugs into the outlet that is fed by the inverter, simply plug the refrigerator into an appropriate sized extension cord and plug that into another outlet (not fed by the inverter) or back to the outside pedestal.

It will at least get you a working refrigerator until you narrow down the issue without having to have the inverter on if it matters.

Indications are pointing to the inverter and its internal transfer switching circuit.

[JerseyVic]

Originally Posted by 5picker

Since it's a residential and you are still having issues, if you can access where the refrigerator plugs into the outlet that is fed by the inverter, simply plug the refrigerator into an appropriate sized extension cord and plug that into another outlet (not fed by the inverter) or back to the outside pedestal.

It will at least get you a working refrigerator until you narrow down the issue without having to have the inverter on if it matters.

Indications are pointing to the inverter and its internal transfer switching circuit.

Thanks, I think so too, going to look into replacing it. To get to the plug I’d have to remove the refrigerator from it’s cavity. It’s about a foot off the ground and set back, I’ll just leave it on the inverter for now.

[dalford]

Originally Posted by JerseyVic

Thanks I think you’re pointing me in the right direction. All connections seem good, do you think it’s the inverter itself that needs to be replaced?

I don’t know which inverter you have, I have a WFCO 1000 watt inverter. I had to replace mine for a different reason than your issue.

Mine has the 120 vac coming from the breaker to the rear of the inverter. I had to remove a rear plate and then pull the wires out that were connected internally to the inverter with wire nuts.

Have you done that or measured the voltage at the rear of your inverter to see if ac is getting there from the breaker panel?

What inverter model do you have?

[cavie]

Originally Posted by JerseyVic

Thanks I think you’re pointing me in the right direction. All connections seem good, do you think it’s the inverter itself that needs to be replaced?

Did you reset the GFI on the inverter?