Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 03-22-2016, 08:13 PM   #11
Senior Member
 
The_Rhino's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 625
Thanks for the responses so far - keep 'em coming...

All trips to date have had electric, even state parks... Although we do not boondock now, we may look into NASCAR, Oshkosh, etc.

I only want (2) 6V batteries max so they can stay on the tongue vs. take-up cargo space... We have a portable generator so as long as the batteries can hold throughout the day while we are gone, we should be good...

I checked the seal with paper & it was tight. I think I cooked the fridge when I left it on propane while traveling through the Smoky Mountains (running too long unlevel...)
__________________

__________________
2011 RAM 2500 ST Crew Cab 5.7 Hemi ($14K in '13)
2011 Primetime 3150BHD Touring Edition ($20K in '14)
Days camped in 2017-31
2016-36; 2015-37; 2014-31

The_Rhino is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2016, 07:39 AM   #12
Senior Member
 
waiter21's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 627
As others have mentioned, Boondock is the question I would ask.

If the answer is rare or never, why even mess with the inverters and battery, just go straight 110 volts. The fridge should stay cold for several hours while your driving down the road, then run the genny every couple hours to keep it cool.

On the other side of the equation, a new 2852 runs about $1200.
__________________

__________________
2001 Coachmen Mirada (Ford F53 6.8L V10) - Toad 2003 Saturn Vue
It won't do MACH 2, but I can get a sandwich and take a pee.
waiter21 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2016, 12:47 PM   #13
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 513
Residential fridges with ice makers can have winterizing hassles. They have internal tubing and valves for the ice maker water which can take at least one, maybe two ice making cycles to get antifreeze into them. The same issue occurs when dewinterizing.

When we bought our 2011 Georgetown, I had the dealer install a Xantrex 1kw modified sine wave inverter with internal transfer switch to run the 2-way rv fridge when driving. This allowed me to drive with the propane off and not worry about the fridge contents during a 12+ hour day of driving. Running the inverter when driving isn't an issue because the 175A alternator has the capacity to support the 26A load of the inverter when the fridge is using power. Shore power for the inverter was routed from the original AC wiring to the fridge outlet.

The MSW inverter is suitable for this application because the fridge uses 110AC for a resistive heating element which doesn't require sine wave power. The inverter also powers a resistive heater strip in the plumbing compartment and an outlet at the sink for an older crock pot.

Phil
__________________
pmsherman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2016, 02:51 PM   #14
Fulltime family RVer
 
ependydad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 14,760
If you don't boondock, there's generally no need for an inverter. I know quite a many people who have residential fridges and travel good long distances and most either don't have inverters or don't switch to them. So long as you keep the fridge doors closed, they hold their cold.
__________________
2012 Ram 3500 DRW/crew cab/long bed/4x4/4.10 gears pulling an early 2013 Sabre 36QBOK
Checkout my site for RVing tips, tricks, and info | My family and I have fulltimed since June 2015
ependydad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2016, 06:14 PM   #15
Senior Member
 
The_Rhino's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 625
The 2 trips we have planned this summer will be 10 hours on the road due to increased stops for 3 kids & Labradoodle... I know our outdoor fridge cannot last that long so if I go the residential route, I will have the inverter, transfer switch & batteries from day one...

I guess I'm looking to see if anyone has a list of products that are installed & working well together.
__________________
2011 RAM 2500 ST Crew Cab 5.7 Hemi ($14K in '13)
2011 Primetime 3150BHD Touring Edition ($20K in '14)
Days camped in 2017-31
2016-36; 2015-37; 2014-31

The_Rhino is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2016, 10:08 AM   #16
Senior Member
 
The_Rhino's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 625
I guess I'm looking to see if anyone has a list of products that are installed & working well together...
__________________
2011 RAM 2500 ST Crew Cab 5.7 Hemi ($14K in '13)
2011 Primetime 3150BHD Touring Edition ($20K in '14)
Days camped in 2017-31
2016-36; 2015-37; 2014-31

The_Rhino is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2016, 09:35 PM   #17
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: East Berlin
Posts: 325
Repair Propane Refrigerator (Dometic) or Install Residential (Whirlpool) w/In...

Before you replace I do have a couple of questions about your current fridge? When you say your freezer is ok do you know the actual temperature. It should be 0 to -2F. In your fridge section is the thermistor it is attached to the last fin on the right, is the center of the thermistor near the center of the fin? Finally please do one last test, if you feel comfortable turn off the power 110 and 12 volt, open the lower fridge exterior vent, remove the cover from the control circuit board, disconnect the thermistor wire, power it back up and let the fridge run wide open on number 5 for at least 24 hours. Place a small container of water on the top shelf near the fins in the fridge section. If your fridge is working ok the water should be frozen within the 24 hours. Your freezer should be down around -10F.

Since you are already considering replacement, you have nothing to lose, but might find that your fridge is not bad, but a component is. If you remove the exterior vent cover and should happen to notice a yellow gray dust all over the coils and boiler, do not do the test as your cooling unit has leaked.
__________________
Rich5117 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2016, 10:12 PM   #18
Senior Member
 
The_Rhino's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 625
I did not notice any yellow gray dust at the bottom of the coils but I think I need to remove the fridge from the TT in order to remove the insulation & boiler cover to have a closer look... I plan to do a thorough cleaning & re-test before ordering any parts...

The fridge does OK until outdoor temps go above 70.... It only goes down to about 50 on both A/C and propane when it is 80 outside. Currently it is maintaining 40, but the outside temps are only in the 50's here in Ohio... I have not run it when temps go below freezing...

Last August I replaced the thermistor with an Articca adjustable thermistor found on eBay. I still could not get fridge below 50 but I could tell the propane kicked-on (or amps up on A/C) when I turned the dial to the coldest settings. I also tried & returned a Dinosaur control board that made no difference. I also installed some extra 12V computer fans to vent heat & there is still no difference.

After reading a lot of forums I figured I had some internal crystallization that is reducing efficiency... So far my only cost is the $30 Thermistor replacement & my time...
__________________
2011 RAM 2500 ST Crew Cab 5.7 Hemi ($14K in '13)
2011 Primetime 3150BHD Touring Edition ($20K in '14)
Days camped in 2017-31
2016-36; 2015-37; 2014-31

The_Rhino is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2016, 01:19 AM   #19
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: East Berlin
Posts: 325
The_Rhino, it sounds like you may indeed have a bad cooling unit. I would still recommend the cooling unit test for 24 hours as a final confirmation. If you do choose to keep your fridge, the cooling unit swap is usually not that difficult.
__________________
Rich5117 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-27-2016, 09:13 PM   #20
Senior Member
 
The_Rhino's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 625
Today the outside temps rose to 70 & the fridge temp to 45... I have some 2 liter water bottles in the fridge to stabilize temps... Ice still frozen in freezer... The boiler is hot on electric... So I'm pretty certain the ammonia mixture has crystalized enough to lose efficiency...

When I look at the big box store reviews for the 10.7 cu. ft. quite a few folks say they are very happy that they swapped-out the stock RV fridge for the 10.7 residential. Faster cooling, more space, etc... Some say they don't need an inverter for shorter trips but I would still like to install one...

So I'm still hoping a few folks who have done this will share their experiences with specific inverters, batteries, transfer switch, etc.
__________________

__________________
2011 RAM 2500 ST Crew Cab 5.7 Hemi ($14K in '13)
2011 Primetime 3150BHD Touring Edition ($20K in '14)
Days camped in 2017-31
2016-36; 2015-37; 2014-31

The_Rhino is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
dometic, inverter, propane, refrigerator, repair

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




ForestRiverForums.com is not in any way associated with Forest River, Inc. or its associated RV manufacturing divisions.


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:19 AM.