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Old 12-30-2014, 11:39 PM   #11
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Thanks for all the posts. It helped me big time. I did see all the same things y'all was talking about. They was half ass install. Pulling mine soon
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Old 01-19-2015, 06:24 PM   #12
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Thanks for your comments and compliments. As further feedback, we have not had a problem with the Suburban furnace since replacing the dual tank regulator. That said, there was one day that it took several tries to light, even though we have the Dinosaur Electronics board installed, but once again, it seemed to be related to the gas pressure, as the tank that the regulator was "pointed to" was pretty low.

So, in my humble opinion, the majority of the problems with this furnace come from low gas pressure, NOT from lack of spark or electrode problems, especially if it has light duty or low usage. The minority of problems come from letting unqualified Billy Bobs work on your furnace, when there's really nothing wrong with it in the first place.
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Old 02-04-2015, 01:41 AM   #13
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My issue was a sail switch that sounded fine but after I (and an RV tech) tested it, it was faulty. Put in a new one and put in a 4-wire trailer connection...fires every time now!! Also, I know WAY TOO much about the system now.
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Old 02-28-2015, 03:34 AM   #14
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Early sf models had a service bullitin about electrode alignment. There is a diverter vane in the burner. Shine a light down the burner and mark the diverter vane area on the burner head with a felt tip marker. Reinstall burner and set electrode 1/8" off head and 3/8" downstream from mark. Original install would work with new parts. Time and corrosion would require tighter tolerances to function.
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Old 02-28-2015, 03:07 PM   #15
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Usually if a heater starts squealing it means the bearings are going bad ...DAMHIK
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Old 03-06-2015, 10:36 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crockett View Post
Early sf models had a service bullitin about electrode alignment. There is a diverter vane in the burner. Shine a light down the burner and mark the diverter vane area on the burner head with a felt tip marker. Reinstall burner and set electrode 1/8" off head and 3/8" downstream from mark. Original install would work with new parts. Time and corrosion would require tighter tolerances to function.
i wrote this in response to the intermittant ignition/lp pressure increase solution.
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Old 01-06-2016, 09:17 PM   #17
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Thanks for the OP, I agree 100% as I'm faced with the task of pulling mine in my Palomino. FR did an appalling job on the install and I have to pull it to dig out a massive dauber nest. Yay.
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