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Old 03-31-2016, 01:05 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Kenny kustom View Post
Unless, you put in a counter depth fridge in.
Under 28"will fit through the door.

Only problem.... They are triple the price.


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Our brand new 2015 Coachmen came with a residential refrigerator. It didn't even make it one trip, died in our driveway. Tried to get it fixed under warranty but that was a nightmare. Finally called Coachmen and told them to get this one out and a new one in. They had to take a slide window out to get it out and the new one in. A massive project, the replacement refrigerator was wider than the one that came out. The refrigerator cabinet had to be rebuilt to fit the new fridge.
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Old 03-31-2016, 01:20 PM   #12
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We have a residential fridge and would not go back. Really like the refer/inverter setup. Our unit doesnt have room for the 6 volt batteries, so I have three 12 volt batteries. I have used the inverter all day with no drop in the inverter output voltage. Have not run it 24 hours yet. We rarely boondock, although there are often situations where the camper is sitting in a parking lot all day. So far so good.
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Old 04-02-2016, 12:53 AM   #13
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one of the biggest downfalls I see to a residential fridge, if it needs to be replaced, a slide would have to be removed. No way it's coming through the door. Other than that, I can see lots of positives to having one.
Even though the salesman said we could get the fridge out the door, I Did NOT takes his word on it. I measured the door frame and fridge on our 2016 Georgetown 369XL tonight.

The door frame is 28 1/2 inches at the narrowest part.
The fridge from the back wall to the front of the fridge (minus the doors) is 26 inches. I guess that is the counter depth spoken of earlier.

I would have to remove the refrigerator doors and the hand rail from the door frame, but at least I know it will fit through if needed. I just hope it is never needed.

I know of a Bounder (less than a year old) that had the fridge removed through the windshield. I don't know which would be worse to remove, the slide or windshield.




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one of the biggest downfalls I see to a residential fridge, if it needs to be replaced, a slide would have to be removed. No way it's coming through the door. Other than that, I can see lots of positives to having one.
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Old 04-02-2016, 12:58 AM   #14
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Id pop the windshield out way before messing with the slide!


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Old 04-02-2016, 01:02 AM   #15
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It's interesting... I have seen notes, in fridges, to let them sit after moving. Before plugging them in.

Has anyone removed power while under way?
Is it bad to turn on and off?
With a short drive ( 3-4 hours)
The fridge wouldn't loose much, if any temp.
Have it plugged in at home, no power while underway, turn it back on when you get to the CG??


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Old 04-02-2016, 01:21 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Kenny kustom View Post
It's interesting... I have seen notes, in fridges, to let them sit after moving. Before plugging them in.

Has anyone removed power while under way?
Is it bad to turn on and off?
With a short drive ( 3-4 hours)
The fridge wouldn't loose much, if any temp.
Have it plugged in at home, no power while underway, turn it back on when you get to the CG??


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If you lay a refrigerator on its side then you need to wait several hours before turning it on because the coolant in the compressor needs to settle.

Why not leave the power off? My fridge is off while in storage and then works fine. Also, when it is on (powered) the actual cooling, once to temp, is probably less than 20 min/hr (quess). I guess my point is the fridge compressor does not run 100% of the time. I would imagine you could go for several hours or longer without power without loosing much temp. That would be a good experiment especially if you plan to boondock and want to save battery power.

My main point is I don't think it will damage the fridge if you cycle the power on and off...
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Old 04-02-2016, 04:26 AM   #17
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Are they still supplying just the "Straps/Cords" to keep the Doors closed while moving? That always looked "Rinky Dink" to me! The Sugatsune latches keep the doors and freezer Secure while looking "Finished" at the same time! Youroo!!
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Old 04-02-2016, 06:20 AM   #18
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It's interesting... I have seen notes, in fridges, to let them sit after moving. Before plugging them in....
I can't see any reason that would be a problem. The compressor cycles all the time with no problem. Th only thing I have ever worried about is turning it off and then on within a couple of minutes so that the compressor tries to start with a remaining pressure head from the previous run. However, during a short power failure that doesn't seem to be a problem.
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Old 04-02-2016, 08:49 AM   #19
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Everyone should read the owners manual for their residential refrigerator. My Whirlpool states that it has to be 50 degrees or higher to run the fridge. Lower and it has to be shut off. I turn ours on at the start of the camping season and don't shut it off until we put it away for the winter. We don't cycle the power on the fridge in our homes so why do that in the RV?
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Old 04-02-2016, 09:32 AM   #20
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Residential refrigerators

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Originally Posted by Schwartzworld View Post

We don't cycle the power on the fridge in our homes so why do that in the RV?

Well.... For people that never boondock.. Why have an inverter and a ton of batteries?

If it's ok to turn the freight off and on, and you never dry camp, why have an inverter?


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