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Old 06-19-2012, 11:38 PM   #1
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RW Signature Ultra Lite Furnace issues

We took delivery of our new 8289WS, early May. We have been out in it twice and have learned just how much we dont know about a fifth wheel and RV's in general.
First time out, furnance fired up one time, and shut off when desired interior temp was reached. However after that first time, when the thermostat calls for heat, the furnace comes on, blower starts for abot 20 seconds and then shuts off. We have confirmed LP tank is open and full, all fuses intact. Dealer no real help othe than drop it off for warranty repair, with a long wait. Would like to try to avoid that. Any ideas? Thanks in advance
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Old 06-19-2012, 11:42 PM   #2
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Hello, and to the forums. Getting late, and I don't have time, but if you do a search on here for furnace, or furnace fail to light, you will find manuals and trouble shooting guides. Could be gas, could be the sail switch, could be a lot of things. You will need a volt meter and know how to use it, and access to the furnace. We are also working on manuals for all the brands of appliances, refer, furnace, water heater, etc., so may try a search for that also.

Welcome again
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Old 06-20-2012, 06:11 AM   #3
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Furnace fails to lite-------

Try closing your propane valves, open the stove top burners to bleed pressure down. Close stove top burners, open the propane valve slowly.
Go to stove, open stove top burner to bleed air out of system light the burner when the propane appears or when you are able to light stove top burner. Now try the furnace, if it fails to light, wait for 5 Min's try again. You may have air in the gas lines. I bought two propane gas cages from my local Walmart, placed on both tanks. Now I can see when there is pressure in the gas lines.
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Old 06-20-2012, 07:07 AM   #4
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When Sid says open the propane valves "slowly" he ain't just kidding.
This isn't a BBQ. Lots of lines to fill with gas and the tanks have a "leak detecting" shut off valve in case of a crash.

If the lines are empty, if you open too fast the shutoff valve will slam shut allowing only a trickle to escape.

The procedure I use is:

Close both tank valves
Select the tank furthest from the regulator (in mine it is the one on the driver side) with the regulator selector.
Make SURE everything is off in the camper. (including the fridge)

CRACK and SLOWLY open the driver side tank. Slowly means at least 15 seconds (count them out) from closed to full open. The first 1/4 rotation of the valve is the critical one. This will let the lines fill at a rate that won't trigger the crash shut off.

Check to make sure the green indicator shows pressure for your tank.

Open the small burner on your stove.

If there is air in the lines it will not light and may take a minute or so to flush the lines. When you can light the burner, wait to see if the flame is strong at full heat. Then start all the burners on high.

If all the burners are going strong on high, you have flushed the lines and they are full of gas. Shut off the burners.

Repeat the procedure to open the passenger side tank.

Slowly rotate the selector to the new tank.

Fire up the burners again. If all is good then...

Try the heater. It is the highest draw in the camper. If it is calling for heat, you will never get the tanks to flow.

If this did not work look, for bug nests in the heater flue. That is the second most common problem with the furnace.
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Old 06-20-2012, 09:06 AM   #5
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So HERK, do you usually keep both tanks open at all times or do you deplete one and then open the other?
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Old 06-20-2012, 09:35 AM   #6
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This might be a thread hijack but I will answer with my technique since I do not have an indicator that "kinda" direct reads the tanks.

When camping I leave both open and check the indicator occasionally when not using the furnace; weekly when using it at night only; every other day or so when using it all day (winterish camping).

Finding it red allows me to swap it out before I run out at night. I tried the "leave one closed" technique but neither of us wanted to get up at 3AM to open and purge the lines to get heat on again.

Guess who lost and why we leave then both open now?
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Old 06-20-2012, 10:19 AM   #7
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Daisy,
Thnaks for the reply, i will check it out
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Old 06-20-2012, 10:20 AM   #8
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Herk and Rugged Brown
Thanks to all for the guidance. Will check it uot and let you know.
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Old 06-20-2012, 10:25 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by herk7769 View Post
This might be a thread hijack but I will answer with my technique since I do not have an indicator that "kinda" direct reads the tanks.

When camping I leave both open and check the indicator occasionally when not using the furnace; weekly when using it at night only; every other day or so when using it all day (winterish camping).

Finding it red allows me to swap it out before I run out at night. I tried the "leave one closed" technique but neither of us wanted to get up at 3AM to open and purge the lines to get heat on again.

Guess who lost and why we leave then both open now?

I'm in the "leave 'em both open" camp as well. To do otherwise just defeats the reason for for having an auto-changeover regulator IMHO. And just to avoid a hi-jack accusation - rv furnace

...VTX-Al
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Old 08-09-2012, 08:52 PM   #10
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Well, my furnace doesn't work. Did all the steps to no avail. So, have to take it to a dealer for warranty, it's only a month old. Problem, Canadian dealers who work on TT purchased in the US, will do the work, but, you have to pay up front and if the warranty repairs are accepted, then the money is returned. Any difference is paid by the owner. Doesn't seem right.
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