Georgetown 351DS - This issue may have been discussed in another forum. I recently replaced my roof mount antenna with Winegard Rayzar Z1 Local HD & Digital Broadcast TV Antenna. Before mounting and sealing I did check of the coax that runs to the signal booster inside passenger overhead cab. I then mounted and connected the antenna on top and susequently connected the other end to the booster. The booster (new) works, green light power light comes on, however as soon as I connect the coax from the antenna, the light goes out. Any ideas? Your help appreciated!
The booster panel supplies the 12 volts to the booster (amplifier) located within the antenna. Didn't your previous antenna include a booster panel and if so why did you change it? Have you tried your old antenna re-connected to the antenna coax? Your new antenna could have a bad amplifier. If there was an existing booster panel have you tried reinstalling it?
The booster panel supplies the 12 volts to the booster (amplifier) located within the antenna. Didn't your previous antenna include a booster panel and if so why did you change it? Have you tried your old antenna re-connected to the antenna coax? Your new antenna could have a bad amplifier. If there was an existing booster panel have you tried reinstalling it?
Thank you for your reply, Yes, I thought understood how the booster panel works as far as boosting signal to the TV's. What I don't understand is why the light on the panel goes out as soon as I connect the booster. The panel worked with old antenna, light stayed on. Can't connect the old antenna as it was destroyed and the reason for the replacement. I tried both the existing as well as the new booster panel included with the antenna and both react same way. Would this be an indicator of a bad amplifier on the antenna? How would I be able to check? Thanks for your help
Little confused by this comment: I then mounted and connected the antenna on top and susequently connected the other end to the booster. The booster (new) works, green light power light comes on, however as soon as I connect the coax from the antenna, the light goes out.
You are saying you have connected the antenna to the power supply via coax and the light is on. Then saying that when you connect coax from antenna the light goes out? Which connection are you making when you say the light goes out. Is it from the booster /splitter box to the TV.
Because the booster power fuse is not blowing I would think the coax cabling is not shorted and suspect an antenna malfunction. This is predicated on everything working before new antenna. There is only a few screws securing the top of the antenna and you could remove it to check the internal interconnect (may or may not help) but I think that your antenna would be replaced due to being bad from supplier.
Little confused by this comment: I then mounted and connected the antenna on top and susequently connected the other end to the booster. The booster (new) works, green light power light comes on, however as soon as I connect the coax from the antenna, the light goes out.
You are saying you have connected the antenna to the power supply via coax and the light is on. Then saying that when you connect coax from antenna the light goes out? Which connection are you making when you say the light goes out. Is it from the booster /splitter box to the TV.
Prior to connecting coax to antenna and mounting & sealing new antenna to roof, I checked integrity of the coax which was good. re-connected coax to the booster panel and light will not come on. If I remove the antenna coax from the panel, light will power up.
Because the booster power fuse is not blowing I would think the coax cabling is not shorted and suspect an antenna malfunction. This is predicated on everything working before new antenna. There is only a few screws securing the top of the antenna and you could remove it to check the internal interconnect (may or may not help) but I think that your antenna would be replaced due to being bad from supplier.
Thanks, I was trying to diagnose without having to remove the antenna along with sealant etc. Looks like don't have much choice. Don't see a way to check antenna internal without doing this. Thanks for your help!
So, the wall plate is not a signal booster. It is an antenna (coax) switch with an integrated 12 volt power source for the roof antenna.
When the light on the wall plate is on the coax selector is selecting the roof antenna and the 12 volt power source is also routed via the same coax to the roof antenna (the RF signal rides the 12 volt dc power). The "RF Signal Booster - Amplifier" is IN THE ANTENNA HOUSING. The circuitry in the antenna splits the DC power and the RF signal internal to the antenna.
When you press the button (on most) or select "Park Cable" (on the newer Winegard plates that have a built in signal display), the power is shut off and the light goes out. The coax source is switched from "roof antenna" to the "cable" source of the RV.
The wall plate system is externally fuse protected. The wall plate itself has a current limiter internal to the switch.
Try cycling the wall plate switch from CABLE to ANT and see if the light works like it is supposed to. If not, there is a short in the coax. Once the short is cleared, the internal ciruit protection will reset after a 2 minute cool down.
I attached the manual for the Winegard Wall Plate.
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Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
So, the wall plate is not a signal booster. It is an antenna (coax) switch with an integrated 12 volt power source for the roof antenna.
When the light on the wall plate is on the coax selector is selecting the roof antenna and the 12 volt power source is also routed via the same coax to the roof antenna (the RF signal rides the 12 volt dc power). The "RF Signal Booster - Amplifier" is IN THE ANTENNA HOUSING. The circuitry in the antenna splits the DC power and the RF signal internal to the antenna.
When you press the button (on most) or select "Park Cable" (on the newer Winegard plates that have a built in signal display), the power is shut off and the light goes out. The coax source is switched from "roof antenna" to the "cable" source of the RV.
The wall plate system is externally fuse protected. The wall plate itself has a current limiter internal to the switch.
Try cycling the wall plate switch from CABLE to ANT and see if the light works like it is supposed to. If not, there is a short in the coax. Once the short is cleared, the internal ciruit protection will reset after a 2 minute cool down.
I attached the manual for the Winegard Wall Plate.
This is good stuff but in the GT the cable input does not go to the booster panel and in fact the booster does not have to be off for cable viewing. That's because there is a source select panel in the GT where all sources are routed and output from the panel. That's the way my GT is wired and I believe his is the same. If not then your input is viable.
This is good stuff but in the GT the cable input does not go to the booster panel and in fact the booster does not have to be off for cable viewing. That's because there is a source select panel in the GT where all sources are routed and output from the panel. That's the way my GT is wired and I believe his is the same. If not then your input is viable.
I was not aware the Georgetown had a source select panel not made by Winegard. Perhaps a photo will allow me to track down the make and model of his switch so I can see if it is functionally identical as I suspect.
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Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
Well, here is the interconnect drawing for the GT I have and think the OP's is the same but may have more TV's. I'm pretty sure you have seen this before. Don't think the selector box is Winegard (Home Vision).
Well, here is the interconnect drawing for the GT I have and think the OP's is the same but may have more TV's. I'm pretty sure you have seen this before. Don't think the selector box is Winegard (Home Vision).
As I suspected, the wall plate is a Winegard power switcher. While I don't have a manual for that model (only a power switcher/antenna disconnect and 12 volt socket), the switcher will still have the 2 minute cool down for the antenna coax short.
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Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
As I suspected, the wall plate is a Winegard power switcher.
Guess it's just a matter of verbiage. You said source select panel and the winegard antenna boost power panel is not a source select panel. Verbiage again. Sorry.
Harley Dave was asking about the power switcher; not the source selector:
"The booster (new) works, green light power light comes on, however as soon as I connect the coax from the antenna, the light goes out."
The switcher panel has the green light that shows power is available to be routed to the roof antenna. When he connected the roof antenna coax, the light goes out indicating a short in the coax somewhere.
If the center wire was bent when an end was connected it could be the source of the short. I would have Dave check each connection for damage and continuity. 12 volts from the center to the shield at the roof antenna connection would indicate the issue was inside the antenna itself. Lack of voltage would mean the issue was in the wire run.
Thank you for the GT wiring diagram. I have added it to my library for future reference. That version of the wall panel only connects/disconnects the power and roof source when pressed.
It does get really confusing when everyone uses different terms for the same item. That GT wall plate does really select and deselect the roof antenna signal; just not the cable source as the "normal" one used in most RVs.
__________________
Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
So I learned a little reading this post. I have a similar problem, the question did the OP ever clear up his issue? let me explain my issues. I have a 2021 River Ranch I just got and long story short I had it delivered and we are out of town staying in it so not very easy to take it back to the dealer unless I have to.
My set up 1) living room TV, 1) bedroom TV, and 1 unused TV outlet in the basement, and one park input on the other side of the basement.
The RV has a Winegard air 360 + , which among other things is the OTA antenna. We have only been in the RV a few days
My problem statement: living room TV ( which has the 12-volt wall plate switch ) has great reception when the green light is on, however about twice a day the light will go out on its own and of course, we lose TV signal and it will not reset for a few mins. the bedroom TV would not pick up only a few of the channels the living TV will and it is the same brand and model TV using the same antenna, both having been channel scanned. so I looked behind the bedroom TV and it had a splitter going into it, 1 for the antenna channels and the other side of the splitter had an FM radio adaptor on it as the TV also has FM radio I guess ( 2 coax inputs on TV 1 for radio and 1 for TV ) . So I took the splitter off and the short FM coax and plugged the regular TV coax back into the TV without the splitter and we got many more channels. SO I am not sure if there is just too much coax on this TV antenna for the booster to push out to and it's getting hot and kicking off ??? I am going to pull wall plate in the basement and check all the plugs and maybe see if I can find where the basement coax splits off the mainline and discount it. But it puzzles me that the green light will work for a few hours before becoming an issue. a clear short would cause an issue a lot quicker I would think.
but just the fact that removing the splitter going into the bedroom TV helped the reception but not the green light kicking off the problem is leading to believe there may be too many feet of coax pulling the booster down ??
oh, one more thing the living room TV which is about 3 feet from the microwave totally fuzzes out ( pixelates ) when you start the microwave. only on TV over air antenna setting, meaning clear picture when using Roku , etc and as far as I can tell the coax runs down from TV nowhere near the microwave, very odd I am buying a microwave leak detector meter to make the microwave is not leaking bad.
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