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Old 12-28-2015, 07:40 PM   #11
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Had this issue in a previous unit. repair was to adjust and align the pilot light and the thermocouple
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Old 12-28-2015, 09:22 PM   #12
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FWIW It sounds like the people replacing parts do not know how the oven works or how to bend a bracket a bit to tune a system...or they get paid for changing parts but not bending the bracket. Sad either way.
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Old 12-28-2015, 09:40 PM   #13
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Yep, very little critical thinking out there when it comes to techs/mechanics nowadays! I had a dealership want to charge me $3,200 for a high pressure fuel pump on my diesel when all it needed as a $90 flow control valve that was replaceable. Had to get a Bosch vendor in Germany mail it out to me but that saved me a small fortune had I listened to the dealership tech....can't call them mechanics anymore I guess.

Had a friend who was told they needed a new hot water heater by an RV dealership because replacing the circuit board was too costly. The hot water heater would not ignite. I fixed in less than a minute by using a soft metal brush and cleaning the ignitor, knocking off rust where it was supposed to spark, and bending the mounting on ignitor so it was closer to the metal section it was supposed to spark against. Also blew out some of the crud in the venturi which helped it burn cleaner.
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Old 12-28-2015, 09:46 PM   #14
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Call the mfg. A part for your stove is under recall. Tell them the problem and they send out the part at no charge and you put it in yourself.
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Old 12-28-2015, 10:00 PM   #15
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Call the mfg. A part for your stove is under recall. Tell them the problem and they send out the part at no charge and you put it in yourself.
You should take this suggestion. The oven in my previous trailer failed in the same manner. I called the manufacturer's support line; the cust.srv. rep told me I needed a new part with a larger orifice. He mailed it to me free of charge; I installed it and it solved the problem.
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Old 12-28-2015, 10:26 PM   #16
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Had the same issue in my 2010 sob htt. Dealer replaced thermo and when that didn't work, the burner rail. Way too many times back to the dealer so gave up. You could light the pilot and it would burn forever but when rail was lit it was 50/50 if it would blow it out. Fixed by buying new Roo.
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Old 01-10-2016, 06:11 PM   #17
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We had the same issue with our 337bar.....factory replaced the entire oven....now works OK.......PS.....here is a tip I learned off of you tube....go out and purchase 4 6x6 unglazed ceramic tiles and place them touching each other on the metal just above the burner... This will disburse the heat better and prevents the bottom of what you are cooking from burning...we purchased our tiles from Menard's for .39 ea....works well give it a try
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Old 01-12-2016, 06:45 PM   #18
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I am having this problem in my brand new TT. I am at a campground now and dont want to break it down and go miles to the dealer. Is there a diagram or video on how to adjust/align the pilot light? Thanks
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Old 01-12-2016, 08:45 PM   #19
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No picture or diagram. I just looked at my pilot fire was a little to the right of the thermocouple. I used a pair of gas pliers and very carefully moved the thermocouple closer to the fire by applying gentle bending pressure. It took a couple of bends but I did this and have never had my pilot light go out again...
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Old 01-13-2016, 07:22 AM   #20
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You should take this suggestion. The oven in my previous trailer failed in the same manner. I called the manufacturer's support line; the cust.srv. rep told me I needed a new part with a larger orifice. He mailed it to me free of charge; I installed it and it solved the problem.
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