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Old 07-05-2015, 02:23 PM   #11
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The water heater on electric may overload a 30 amp circuit when air and microwave are on. In those cases run on propane and save the amps for the AC unit. Always good to have a voltmeter to see what is happening.
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Old 07-05-2015, 02:29 PM   #12
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I'll diagnosis at home this week, headed back soon. No breakers are triped. This was the first time I turned electric on and know water was in there, if it's fried it happened before I took delivery. I can easily get to the back of the heater once we unpack at home
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Old 07-05-2015, 02:36 PM   #13
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The hot wire on my unit was not connected to circuit breaker when we got it. Check outlet to see if it's hot. There is a second switch in the inside mounted on junction box where 120V comes in. Have not traced it's purpose may want to explore your WH where your hot and cold lines connect to tank.
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Old 07-06-2015, 06:53 AM   #14
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All set guys, thanks for the info and assistance. Came home checked everything you mentioned. For electric only I found the reset button needed to be hit. Thought I hit that previously. The one good thing about having troubles is you learn from them. Thanks again for the help. Had an amazing trip with my family, about 20 of us laughing and joking and having a good old time
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Old 07-06-2015, 12:14 PM   #15
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thanks

wmtire and harkerr .....went out to my rig and opened the hotwater door...saw what you were talking about....had seen the elec switch before but not the reset buttons....I am now clued up....thanks [and I now know what DSI means and does ]
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Old 07-06-2015, 12:21 PM   #16
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"Op" bpa098
What was your method for making "sure" the water heater was full of water?

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Old 07-06-2015, 12:23 PM   #17
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The pressure relief valve
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Old 07-06-2015, 12:24 PM   #18
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Ok good!

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Old 07-06-2015, 12:25 PM   #19
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You mean I did something right lol
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Old 07-06-2015, 12:26 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpa098 View Post
You mean I did something right lol
Darn right!
Most people use the hot water tap and that has flaws.



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