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Old 09-27-2013, 09:02 PM   #1
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thermostat or furnace problem-won't stay on

arrived in Cheyenne, Wyoming and temperature was 39 degrees F. got to A&B campground and settled in---started furnace and would not stay on, intermittent, sometimes runs for 1-3 minutes and as I am writing this it seems to be running ok. cycled thermostat temperature setting--nothing; turned on and off and back on--nothing.
coleman-mach analog type 60277 model in black.
called a local fix it guy---he's on the way.
Trailer is a Flagstaff 831bfkss (see signature) and is 2 months old to us. second trip------
have you had intermittent heat problem and what was it?
Gary
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Old 09-27-2013, 09:39 PM   #2
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Did you purge the air from the lines by lighting your stove burners. If you have air in the lines it could cause it to fire the furnace then shut off. It then takes a while before the furnace will try to fire again.
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Old 09-27-2013, 10:34 PM   #3
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If that is not the problem, it could be the propane regulator. I had mine replaced after approx. 10 months of use due to it being faulty.
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Old 09-28-2013, 06:34 AM   #4
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furnace

repair guy--nice man from Laramie-John; replaced the high limit but that was not it. it is not gas supply. the unit will not stay on. trips out after 30 seconds almost all the time. babysitting the thermostat, up and down to reset, to raise temp in trailer. now need to stop by his place in Laramie for more repair.
Gary

its like something is loose or poor connection or heat sensitive.
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Old 09-28-2013, 07:03 AM   #5
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Troubleshooting the furnace is not for the faint of heart.

Here is a guide, and you should print it out and give it to you repair guy.

BUT

One thing I would do is using a can of compressed air (or compressor), blow out the intake and exhaust ports. Bugs can build nests in them (screens are a great investment to prevent this) and slow the rate of air flow. This can cause a lean mixture on the inlet side or restrict exhaust on the outlet side; causing a non-combustible mixture to form shortly after ignition.

Bug nests on the fans themselves can cause slow rotation which can cause failure to light due to not closing the sail switch in the plenum. Sail switch problems demonstrate themselves by having the fan run for a few minutes but no heat; then complete shutdown. You need to cycle the thermostat on; then off; to get the thing to start again.

These guides and the wiring diagram are for the Suburban, but they are all very similar.
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Old 09-30-2013, 08:18 AM   #6
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heater no work

the complete unit has been out, the sail switch replaced, the thermostat bypassed, the control board replaced, the high temp limit replaced and still trips out.
the intake and exhaust ports are clear, no bugs.
since i'm not near a dealer and am not in vital need we will wait till return to have repaired-replaced is better.
Has anyone ever had ductwork blockage to have the fan motor trip on thermals?
that's all that is left.
Gary
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Old 09-30-2013, 08:50 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by etcmss View Post
the complete unit has been out, the sail switch replaced, the thermostat bypassed, the control board replaced, the high temp limit replaced and still trips out.
the intake and exhaust ports are clear, no bugs.
since i'm not near a dealer and am not in vital need we will wait till return to have repaired-replaced is better.
Has anyone ever had ductwork blockage to have the fan motor trip on thermals?
that's all that is left.
Gary

Sounds like all the easy stuff has been addressed.
Only the common shaft motor is left.
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Old 10-01-2013, 07:46 AM   #8
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heater nowork

that is our conclusion but there is one other related to air flow being poor going through the floor ducting and preventing the right air delivery. this has apparently been known to cause sail switches and motor thermal problems. on our return to Illinois to be addressed by dealer.
Gary
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