They called it a power surge.......

Gene85222 · 03-07-2015, 09:44 AM

I bought a 2015 Silverback 33IK FW two weeks ago. When I bought the FW home and plugged in the power (yes 50 amp) all sorts of funny things happened. Long story short...... I took the FW to their service department and they said that it appeared to be some sort of power surge that took out the microwave, domestic refrigerator, washer/dryer, and convertor. Fortunately Geico stepped up and covered the repair. Here's my question: I asked the service people what they planned to do with the appliances that they were removing? He asked if I wanted them? I'm wondering if it would be worth while to try and get repair parts for the removed appliances, repair them and sale them on Craigslist? Has anyone tried to get the repair parts? If the parts are too costly it may not be worth the trouble. The FW is still at the service department waiting for the replacement appliances so I'm not sure what brands they are and the books are in the trailer. I just know that the W/D is a Splendide, WD2100XC, vented.
Of course these are all 110 Volt so they don't necessarily need to be in an RV.

**wmtire** · 03-07-2015, 09:48 AM

Did you have them also check out the television(s)? They also are very commonly damaged in power surges (or incorrect wired power supplies). If you have an electric fireplace, it would be wise to also check it out too.

Just for my own curiosity, did this surge happen almost immediately after you plugged into a 50 amp at your house? The reason I ask, is it's possible your 50 amp is not of the correct type. You need what is referred to as a 120/240 volt split phase 50 amp service. This will require a 120 volt line 1, a 120 volt line 2, a neutral, and a ground. By it being wired this way, the RV just uses both of the 120 volt lines separately and thus it all remains 120 volts.

If you plugged into a 240 volt 50 amp service, that just has two hot lines and a ground.......and no neutral....then it's possible to burn it all up again if you are shooting 240 volts to everything...and not 120 volts as it's designed.

B and B · 03-07-2015, 09:48 AM

I would check your power for correct voltage and wiring prior to reconnecting. As far as repair parts, microwave most likely is not worth the effort. The washer and fridge would be worth the investment in time and parts.

Wiscampsin · 03-07-2015, 09:56 AM

Sorry to hear about your troubles. I'm surprised the dealer doesn't have to return the burnt out appliancess to the manufacturer. Make sure you get the 50 AMP source of power at home checked out by an electrician. And go get one of these: EMS-HW50C or one of these: EMS-PT50C

Gene85222 · 03-07-2015, 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wmtire

Did you have them also check out the television(s)? They also are very commonly damaged in power surges (or incorrect wired power supplies).

Just for my own curiosity, did this surge happen almost immediately after you plugged into a 50 amp at your house?

Some things did work when I plugged in but not for long. I bought a surge protector and checked my 50 amp plug. I have the proper lights showing on the surge protector so I hope I'm good to plug the FW in when I get it home. I'm not sure about the TV there is a clicking noise coming from behind the TV before it comes on. And there was a burning smell coming from that area. I think it may have been the satellite receive. But without the dish I have no way to check it.

**wmtire** · 03-07-2015, 10:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gene85222

Some things did work when I plugged in but not for long. I bought a surge protector and checked my plug. I have the proper lights showing on the surge protector so I hope I'm good to plug the FW in when I get it home.

Gene, just to make sure and give everyone piece of mind, do you own and know how to operate a multimeter? If so, we can easily check it all out on your outlet.

The voltage between:
Y and X should be 240-Volt,
X and W 120-Volt,
Y and W 120-Volt,
X and G 120-volt,
Y and G 120-volt,
W and G 0-Volt

If you are not confident (or have experience) in operating a multimeter, then please do not attempt the above. We don't want you to get shocked.

Also I edited my first post to include maybe another item you may want to check out if you have it in your RV.

What kind/model of surge protector do you have? As you stated, it may be showing you all is good.

Although unlikely, I would be remiss in not asking to be sure that you are not using any kind of adapters to plug into the 50 amp outlet?

Gene85222 · 03-07-2015, 10:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wmtire

Gene, just to make sure and give everyone piece of mind, do you own and know how to operate a multimeter? If so, we can easily check it all out.

The voltage between Y and X should be 240-Volt, X and W 120-Volt, Y and W 120-Volt, X and G 120-volt, Y and G 120-volt, W and G 0-Volt

If you are not confident (or have experience) in operating a multimeter, then please do not attempt the above. We don't want you to get shocked.

Also I edited my first post to include maybe another item you may want to check out if you have it in your RV.

I installed the 50amp with #8 wire, my self and I almost wore out my multimeter checking the polarity. I also have a Progressive 'Smart Surge' that I just bought, plugged in. The lights show that the plug is good.

**wmtire** · 03-07-2015, 10:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gene85222

I installed the 50amp with #8 wire, my self and I almost wore out my multimeter checking the polarity. I also have a Progressive 'Smart Surge' that I just bought, plugged in. The lights show that the plug is good.

I'm not familiar enough with that surge protector to know if it also alerts you to a 240 volt problem as the progressive EMS does.

I am glad you know how to use a multi-meter. It really wouldn't hurt in the least to check out your outlet, using the values above just to make sure that your aren't getting 240 volts somewhere you shouldn't.

The reason almost every member (including myself) mentioned that to you, is outlets get miswired a lot (even by professionals). You will read many stories of it in these forums.....and the horrible aftermaths of it. That's why we are all on edge and trying to make sure you are not one of these unfortunate souls. We want you to be a happy camper (literally).

**Flybob** · 03-07-2015, 10:58 AM

You can check the TV without the dish. Simply plug in and so to the setup menu. If you see a setup menu and can navigate around it is likely OK. If you fried the TV, you will not have a setup menu

**ependydad** · 03-07-2015, 11:08 AM

Ok, back to the original post which wmtire so rudely ignored/hijacked ... a majority of the appliances aren't worth much. They're generally really cheap and I can't imagine you getting much after you pay to fix them.

brer_rabbit10 · 03-07-2015, 12:30 PM

In some cases the cost of the return of appliances such as these is more than their worth to the manufacturer.

Gene85222 · 03-07-2015, 12:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ependydad

Ok, back to the original post which wmtire so rudely ignored/hijacked ... a majority of the appliances aren't worth much. They're generally really cheap and I can't imagine you getting much after you pay to fix them.

What do you think about the Splendide W/D it was $1345 w/tax? And everything was never used.

**ependydad** · 03-07-2015, 12:31 PM

That's one that may be worthwhile.

cadman99 · 03-07-2015, 12:42 PM

It would appear you surge protector will not protect against improper wiring

"The Smart Surge 240V/50A provides 5-mode, 1650 joules, and 45,000 amp surge current rating. The built in surge status indicator notes the condition of the surge protector.

Additionally, the dual line circuit tester checks for: Reverse Polarity, Open Neutral and Open Ground prior to use. Sleek, compact, portable design makes it easy to use".

LANShark42 · 03-07-2015, 12:49 PM

Three questions to the OP:
1) Will they replace with the same make/model appliances?
2) Do you have a place to store the old appliances?
3) How long do you plan to keep your RV?

If your answers are "yes", "yes" and "a long time" it might be nice to keep them to salvage any knobs, panels, and/or anything that did not get damaged, then use them as the replacement equipment ages. My 2¢...

OldCoot · 03-07-2015, 12:49 PM

Someone needs to post side by side diagrams of a 50a 240 receptacle and a 50a rv receptacle. I can't find mine.

geotex1 · 03-07-2015, 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OldCoot

Someone needs to post side by side diagrams of a 50a 240 receptacle and a 50a rv receptacle. I can't find mine.

OK.

OldCoot · 03-07-2015, 12:58 PM

50A 110v rv circuit, not 30A

Paul M · 03-07-2015, 01:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OldCoot

50A 110v rv circuit, not 30A

ALL 50 Amp RV sources ARE 220 Volt. Thae fact is that the RV does NOT use 220 volt. The Busses in the distribution box are split, so each side gets 110 Volt. For this reason is why some people state that RV's are ONLY 110 Volt. So just for clarification, There IS 220 Volts coming into the RV but it is not utlized in that fashion.

OldCoot · 03-07-2015, 01:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Paul M

ALL 50 Amp RV sources ARE 220 Volt. Thae fact is that the RV does NOT use 220 volt. The Busses in the distribution box are split, so each side gets 110 Volt. For this reason is why some people state that RV's are ONLY 110 Volt. So just for clarification, There IS 220 Volts coming into the RV but it is not utlized in that fashion.

Pardon me, but I don't believe that is correct.

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