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Old 06-13-2012, 11:28 PM   #1
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Water dont work on gas

Have a 2011 rockwood 8281ss and the water heater is not working on gas, when I turn on the gas switch in the camper the fault light used to come on, then after a few seconds I would hear the gas kick on. Now when you flip the switch the fault light does not come on and the gas does not light. What can I check before I have to send it to a dealer. It works on electricity.
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Old 06-13-2012, 11:39 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mstell2
Have a 2011 rockwood 8281ss and the water heater is not working on gas, when I turn on the gas switch in the camper the fault light used to come on, then after a few seconds I would hear the gas kick on. Now when you flip the switch the fault light does not come on and the gas does not light. What can I check before I have to send it to a dealer. It works on electricity.
Have you checked dc fuses?
High limit resets?
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Old 06-13-2012, 11:42 PM   #3
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The 15 amp blade fuses look fine, saw a reset on outside of water heater but looks like have to take off little black cover to see what that is. Will try to open it in the morning, it's too dark to be messing with it tonight. Don't want to blow myself up, haha.
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Old 06-14-2012, 12:02 AM   #4
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Did you shut your electric element off. The gas won't come on if the heater is still being maintained by electricity
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Old 06-14-2012, 12:08 AM   #5
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Mine works on both gas and electricity, heats the water faster I guess.
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Old 06-14-2012, 12:14 AM   #6
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Mine works on both gas and electricity, heats the water faster I guess.
If the water heater is set to electric and gas, I believe that the electric will maintain the temperature in the heater until there is a demand for hot water at which time the gas will kick in to heat the water along with the electric element. I have not done this but I believe that this is the way it works. Correct me if I am wrong.
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Old 06-14-2012, 12:45 AM   #7
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PrairieBoy, that sounds correct, but the burner should be kicking on because of people taking showers, but it's not even trying to ignite, don't hear clicking or smell gas. Worked fine yesterday so don't know what would have changed in one day.
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Old 06-14-2012, 12:52 AM   #8
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PrairieBoy, that sounds correct, but the burner should be kicking on because of people taking showers, but it's not even trying to ignite, don't hear clicking or smell gas. Worked fine yesterday so don't know what would have changed in one day.
Seems to be an electrical problem then. Turbo seems to be on the right track. Even though the fuses look good, you need to check for voltage with a multimeter. Good luck
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Old 06-14-2012, 12:57 AM   #9
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It is also possible that you have run out of propane. If the heater fails to light after so many tries it might go into a fault mode that has to be reset. You didn't specify if you checked the propane or not.
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Old 06-14-2012, 04:10 AM   #10
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i was thinking same thing as prairieboy are you sure you have propane you wouldnt be the first one to have that problem
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Old 06-14-2012, 06:31 AM   #11
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Have you tried shutting of propane tanks waiting 30 seconds and then opening very very slowly?
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Old 06-14-2012, 07:28 AM   #12
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Have you tried lighting the stove?
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Old 06-14-2012, 10:25 AM   #13
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Ok, I have propane to the stove, checked breaker and fuse, pressed the resets on the outside of tank, and still nothing. When I flip the switch for gas I still do not here the sparker trying to ignite, and I don't hear or smell gas coming out. Maybe it is a relay? Will check voltage when I get home tomorrow.
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Old 06-14-2012, 12:01 PM   #14
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Here is what is "under the black cover" The rubber covers are to protect you from a shock. Just push right through the rubber circles until they are "in".

Not that the wire connecting the high limit switch on the left is burned out in the photo. That one the DC (or "on propane") one.

To check that you must remove the rubber cover.

You must also TOTALLY REMOVE power for a few minutes to reset the control board if you had a "no light" condition three times. Turning off the switch (with the red light) will work.

NOTE ALSO THAT: If the high limit switch is open or burned out the red light will NOT come on ever.
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Old 06-14-2012, 12:09 PM   #15
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This is my panel, the fault light usually comes on but is not working, I am not getting any fire to the propane valve or sparker, going check hi limit, will let you know.
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Old 06-14-2012, 12:41 PM   #16
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High limit switch is getting juice, gas valve is not. Must be the module I see in the wiring diagram. How do I get to the module? Is it behind water heater or do I look somewhere else? I want to test it to see if it is getting juice.
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Old 06-14-2012, 01:28 PM   #17
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Bottom red wire on hi limit is not getting the juice, therefore no power to module. How do you fix this? 99% sure that is the problem, have taken everything apart and narrowed it down. Can you change just the high limiter?
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Old 06-14-2012, 01:37 PM   #18
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If you need to replace the entire thing.

RV Services Online - Troubleshooting - Water Heater Service

Some more help.
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Old 06-14-2012, 01:39 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mstell2 View Post
Bottom red wire on hi limit is not getting the juice, therefore no power to module. How do you fix this? 99% sure that is the problem, have taken everything apart and narrowed it down. Can you change just the high limiter?
Press the reset at the top of the high limit switch.

If that does not work the high limit switch must be replaced.

RV Suburban Water Heater Thermostat/High Limit Switch | eBay
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Old 06-14-2012, 02:24 PM   #20
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High limit switch is getting juice, gas valve is not. Must be the module I see in the wiring diagram. How do I get to the module? Is it behind water heater or do I look somewhere else? I want to test it to see if it is getting juice.
You could bypass with a jumper (Temporarily) to see if the unit fires normally (Make sure it is COLD so it is calling for heat).

If it does order a new one.
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