|
05-21-2016, 10:49 AM
|
#1
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: lancaster
Posts: 320
|
Water heater relief valve dripping
Ok third run with TT. and noticed relief valve dripping. Got home little to my knowledge I replaced relief valve. Filled tank started heater and it still dripped. Called dealer he said you need to get air in the tank. Some told me to fill from an empty garden hose and that air should pocket in the water heater. Before doing that I got out the instructions and followed them. ( see attached ) that did not work. Then I did what he told me with empty hose. Big improvement yes. Still out playing around with water usage.
What have others done and or did you ever hear of this situation. ???
Also in case this continues I added drain to relief valve so a can manage water and we're it goes. It was a mess this last trip.
|
|
|
05-21-2016, 11:08 AM
|
#2
|
Site Team
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 15,265
|
The relief valve can get water heater crud in it when you open it to vent the air. Open it and allow some water to drain out ( be careful if it is hot) then let is snap back closed. Eventually it may have to be replaced.
__________________
2015 Freedom Express 248RBS
TV 2015 Silverado HD2500 Duramax
TST Tire Monitors
Honda 2000I + Companion
2 100W solar panels
|
|
|
05-21-2016, 11:09 AM
|
#3
|
Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 33,736
|
Semi different subject matter, but just wanted to make sure since you have a Suburban water heater that also has an electric heating element (shown in your pic), that you fully understand it's operation too.
If so, then please disregard.
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ore-36197.html
__________________
2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS
A 72 hour hold in a psych unit is beginning to intrigue me as a potential vacation opportunity.
|
|
|
05-21-2016, 02:19 PM
|
#4
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 3,082
|
Had the same issue in a house we bought last summer. Tried everything. Lowered house water pressure, lowered hot water temperature, replaced release twice. None of these worked. Put in an accumulator and all is good. A small one gallon accumulator is plenty for an RV hot water heater.
Fred W
|
|
|
05-21-2016, 07:59 PM
|
#5
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: lancaster
Posts: 320
|
Update. I just installed an in line expansion device. As Suburban suggested in there fine print, in section referring to adding air pocket. Sorry I don't get the air pocket, since they also say to remove air from lines before turning on unit anyway. This is working but time to tell. I'll remove it if it doesn't work.
Just a note heat ducts at take offs on furnace were loosing lots of air. Modified those with more foil tape and zip ties.
|
|
|
05-21-2016, 08:49 PM
|
#6
|
Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
|
Just keep in mind, if it seeps water it will also seep air and when the air is gone it will seep water again. Just open it when it is full and NOT hot and has pressure on it and let it flip shut a couple of times. Might also have to turn the flip lever a couple of times when it is open also. It will eventually seat if it is new.
|
|
|
05-22-2016, 07:00 AM
|
#7
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 253
|
There has to be an air pocket somewhere in the system because when you heat up the water it must expand. If there is an air pocket in the top of the water heater tank all should work fine but the instructions in the picture will not form an air pocket but, rather, will let the air out until the tank is full of water. With the system off the relief valve should be opened and the tank partially drained from below. When the relief valve is closed air will be trapped in the top of the tank.
If you notice the relief valve dripping and don't have time to fix it (like on a trip) turn off the water supply and pump and open a faucet while the water heats. You will see the faucet dripping if there isn't an air pocket in the tank.
If you don't have an air pocket for expansion and fix all the drips then all that is left is to rupture a hose or fitting somewhere.
__________________
N. Brevard County, Florida
2010 Lexington 255 GTS
2000 Jeep Cherokee Toad
|
|
|
05-22-2016, 05:17 PM
|
#8
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 423
|
You should fill your fresh water system, hot & cold water lines, including your hot water tank. Turn off the city water, release the water pressure, then open the Pressure Relief valve. when water stops draining out, let snap shut. This will create the water pocket in the top of the tank which allows for the expansion when hot.
Good luck
|
|
|
05-22-2016, 05:48 PM
|
#9
|
Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by dontay
There has to be an air pocket somewhere in the system because when you heat up the water it must expand. If there is an air pocket in the top of the water heater tank all should work fine but the instructions in the picture will not form an air pocket but, rather, will let the air out until the tank is full of water. With the system off the relief valve should be opened and the tank partially drained from below. When the relief valve is closed air will be trapped in the top of the tank.
If you notice the relief valve dripping and don't have time to fix it (like on a trip) turn off the water supply and pump and open a faucet while the water heats. You will see the faucet dripping if there isn't an air pocket in the tank.
If you don't have an air pocket for expansion and fix all the drips then all that is left is to rupture a hose or fitting somewhere.
|
6 gal of water @ 50d F when heated 92d F to 142d F will expand 0.119 gal or approx. 15 oz. The pex lines in the plumbing system will more than handle that much with no problem.
BTW, I bleed the water heater tank via the pressure relief until only water comes out and then go bleed all the air out of the hot and cold water lines and we DO NOT have any seeping from the water heater or any faucet.
|
|
|
05-22-2016, 07:38 PM
|
#10
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 253
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by tomrob1161
You should fill your fresh water system, hot & cold water lines, including your hot water tank. Turn off the city water, release the water pressure, then open the Pressure Relief valve. when water stops draining out, let snap shut. This will create the water pocket in the top of the tank which allows for the expansion when hot.
Good luck
|
You are correct. I made a mistake in not looking closely enough at the picture. The relief valve is on the side of the tank down from the top so when water stops coming out there is air above the valve level. Mine and all the ones we have ever had were on top of the tank. SAT
__________________
N. Brevard County, Florida
2010 Lexington 255 GTS
2000 Jeep Cherokee Toad
|
|
|
05-23-2016, 05:35 AM
|
#11
|
World Wide Wanderer
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Sprung Leak, NC
Posts: 1,732
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by tomrob1161
You should fill your fresh water system, hot & cold water lines, including your hot water tank. Turn off the city water, release the water pressure, then open the Pressure Relief valve. when water stops draining out, let snap shut. This will create the water pocket in the top of the tank which allows for the expansion when hot.
Good luck
|
Bingo!
This is probably one of the easiest "fixes" you can do. It cures many supposed water heater issues; noises and dribbles.
Aaron
__________________
Aaron & Rhonda
wahoonc & Airangel60
2016 Coachmen Concord 300DS
2015 Fusion Hybrid following along
|
|
|
05-23-2016, 11:46 AM
|
#12
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Oregon
Posts: 133
|
Mine just started doing the same thing on our second camping. I can't see where having (or not) an air pocket would make a difference. Mine is the Suburban horizontal model.
__________________
TT- 2016 Grey Wolf 21RB
TV- 2004 GMC3500 4x
|
|
|
05-23-2016, 03:33 PM
|
#13
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: lancaster
Posts: 320
|
Adding the water hammer has really helped. It's possibly going to work in real world use. For now I've only tested here at home. But it's not dripping.... A possible upgrade I may choose to do would be this blue expansion tank I found on Amazon it's larger capacity would certainly do it since the water hammer has been successful so far.
I'm just desiring a way around this issue. If there is one. I mean I don't mind doing the procedures to create an air pocket. But they were limited success.
Also I spoke to suburban this morning. They told me a cup of water per cycle is acceptable. That's 8 oz. REALLY. seams silly to me. Ps. My prior tt never dropped a bit. That's why initially I thought I had a bad relief valve. Only this week after researching have I become aware that this is extremely prevalent for many. And possibly others aren't even aware of the water that is accumulated in the water eater during use.
|
|
|
|
Thread Tools |
|
Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
» Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|