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Old 06-07-2015, 08:53 PM   #11
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What you really need to do is become a full time RV'er. That'll take care of the problem.
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Old 06-07-2015, 11:41 PM   #12
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Go to Your fav home store and buy round brush, probably in the Dremel stuff, that will fit into the drain hole of your wh. Carefully use this brush in your power drill to clean the threads and use Teflon tape on your new rod. Also buy a wh flusher to fit on your water hose. You will be shocked to see what you can flush out.
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Old 06-08-2015, 08:55 PM   #13
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I was able to run a tap down it and clean it out. I was using plumbers tape when I installed the new rod but the rod was getting hung up going in and the old rods threads were too corroded to thread back in even with the tape. I keep a spare roll of PT in the tool box next to the electrical tape and super glue. The new anode rod installed cleanly with no weeping. The RV is only a 2013 so it's not that old. I believe that the dealers practice of leaving the anode rod out of the hole accelerated the wear much faster than it would have had the tech put the rod back in after blowing out the pipes. I'm just glad I'll be able to get at least 2 more years out of the water heater before I have to think about replacing the rod again because at that point I may be looking at a new heater and I hate doing plumbing.
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Old 06-08-2015, 09:28 PM   #14
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Happy guy,,,,,I wouldn't let that anode sit in there for all that time,,,,galvanic corrosion could just about weld the anode to the tank threads....then you're in doo doo. Take it out twice a year and flush the tank,,,,,re-teflon the threads and zip it back in. If not teflon,,,used plumber's crayon. Either one works well for what you're doing.
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Old 06-08-2015, 09:33 PM   #15
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If you're worried about rust with the anode installed during the winter, just make sure the threads are dry and coat with Danco silicone paste and then tape or dope the threads of the new anode and install.

I clean the tank, dry the threads, coat them with Danco and roll a paper towel and plug the hole with the paper towel and leave the anode out during the winter.
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Old 06-09-2015, 05:10 PM   #16
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Now there's some good advice

Congrats Happy on gettin er done.....

Old coots advice sounds like the best yet.

As Happy sez...leaving the plug out....and in contact with the other metal...may just allow ionic shift to continue....old coots' advice sounds like the best way to halt the process from attacking the threads.


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Old 06-09-2015, 05:28 PM   #17
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Old coots got good advice there or you could get a "BRASS" 3/4 inch pipe plug to install for the winter storage. The brass won't react with threads on tank.
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Old 06-09-2015, 05:30 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HappyGuy View Post
I was able to run a tap down it and clean it out. I was using plumbers tape when I installed the new rod but the rod was getting hung up going in and the old rods threads were too corroded to thread back in even with the tape. I keep a spare roll of PT in the tool box next to the electrical tape and super glue. The new anode rod installed cleanly with no weeping. The RV is only a 2013 so it's not that old. I believe that the dealers practice of leaving the anode rod out of the hole accelerated the wear much faster than it would have had the tech put the rod back in after blowing out the pipes. I'm just glad I'll be able to get at least 2 more years out of the water heater before I have to think about replacing the rod again because at that point I may be looking at a new heater and I hate doing plumbing.
You could get a case of upgradeitus before then....
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Old 06-09-2015, 05:31 PM   #19
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My process:

Remove anode when winterizing, chase threads, flush tank, install plastic plug hand tight.

As part of the dewinterizing process remove plastic plug, install new anode rod with teflon tape on threads. Camp and forget about it till fall,then back to step 1.

Anode rods are very inexpensive I replace mine every other year.

I also made a flush tool that consists of a 3/4 PVC pipe fitting attached to a 8" PVC pipe. I screw that into the anode hole and insert the flush rod through it. The PVC pipe keeps the crud that comes out from running down the side of the RV.
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Old 06-10-2015, 11:04 AM   #20
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TFE Plumbers Putty

TFE Plumbers Putty is what plumbers use for gas lines. It will seal almost anything. You might have to thread chase, but if I understood you, the threads are gone, not filled in. My son always uses teflon tape and the putty.
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