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Old 07-03-2019, 11:21 PM   #1
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Will this work? Refrigerator replacement

I'm fed up with my Dometic RM2351 fridge! Our camper is a 2014 Coachman Clipper 17FQ and it's a small fridge. Local RV shop just informed me they charge $129/hour for diagnostic work. For $129, I can pick up a 120 volt mini fridge that will fit in the spot. For another $89, I can purchase a 1000watt inverter to keep it running while hooked to the truck. We don't boondock and never plan to, so the fridge is either going to be on shore power or hooked to the truck. I can wire directly to the battery, stow the inverter in a cabinet or behind the fridge and leave it on all the time.



Will this work? Will the inverter survive being on all the time? When hooking up to shore power will I need to turn it off and plug fridge into 120 outlet? I've just had it with propane fridges!!!!
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Old 07-04-2019, 06:00 AM   #2
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What you propose should work fine. However, I'd get an inverter with a transfer switch so it would switch when on shore power. It may cost a little more, but it'd be worth it in the long run.
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Old 07-04-2019, 06:22 AM   #3
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Will this work?

It will work fine but the power consumed may be high. Even though you never boondock an extended time at a resturiant or movie might be hard on the batt.

If you have start batts and house batts as long as the start batt is not powering the inverter while the engine is off, you should be fine.
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Old 07-04-2019, 08:10 AM   #4
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We have a res. ref. and have run it 7 hours on inverter.
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Old 07-04-2019, 08:37 AM   #5
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I'm fed up with my Dometic RM2351 fridge! Our camper is a 2014 Coachman Clipper 17FQ and it's a small fridge. Local RV shop just informed me they charge $129/hour for diagnostic work. For $129, I can pick up a 120 volt mini fridge that will fit in the spot. For another $89, I can purchase a 1000watt inverter to keep it running while hooked to the truck. We don't boondock and never plan to, so the fridge is either going to be on shore power or hooked to the truck. I can wire directly to the battery, stow the inverter in a cabinet or behind the fridge and leave it on all the time.



Will this work? Will the inverter survive being on all the time? When hooking up to shore power will I need to turn it off and plug fridge into 120 outlet? I've just had it with propane fridges!!!!

We did just what you are proposing to do. We installed an 11 cu.ft. fridge only, in the kitchen and a small freezer in the outdoor kitchen. They are both on the inverter. You will just need some good deep cell batteries and as mentioned, I would get the transfer switch.
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Old 07-04-2019, 08:40 AM   #6
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If you never boondock and don’t “normally” drive more than a couple hours...I personally wouldn’t worry about the inverter.
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Old 07-05-2019, 05:07 AM   #7
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We never boondock either, and most of our trips aer less than 2 hours,

BUT........

Once a year we usually take and extended trip which entails some LONG travel days, sometimes several in a row.

IMHO the inverter, With the switch is the best solution. Fridge stays cold; truck always has a good battery for starting.
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Old 07-05-2019, 06:03 AM   #8
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if you're always 'plugged in', why would you even need an inverter?
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Old 07-05-2019, 06:06 AM   #9
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also, though, remember that removing your current fridge may not be as easy a task as you might think - you may have to remove your whole entrance door from it's frame in order to get the 'old' one out, and the new one in... before you then have to replace the door and reseal it.

all in all, though, it's not a bad idea - you may even find that you have much more room to put in an even much taller 'apartment' fridge, like we did = MUCH more fridge room!
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Old 07-05-2019, 06:27 AM   #10
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I thought most inverters have a transfer switch built in.

You plug them into a 110 circuit. Then run two wires to the battery. Plug the fridge into the inverter. Easy!

The problem with residential fridges is getting them in the door.

I would get the biggest fridge that fits thru the door and fits in the hole!

Shallow depth refrigerators are called “counter depth”.

You have to take the doors off.

Plugged into the tv a cheap 12 volt battery in the rv might only power the fridge for a few hours. More bigger batteries are the trick.
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Old 07-05-2019, 10:31 AM   #11
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if you're always 'plugged in', why would you even need an inverter?
On our last outing, we were traveling as many hours as we were plugged in. Fridge was typically 50+ degrees which made any food storage (and medication) impossible. If we stayed one place more than 24 hours, we could freeze ice and it got cold, but that wasn't the typical travel pattern......and probably won't be for us. Thanks!
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Old 07-05-2019, 03:45 PM   #12
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On our last outing, we were traveling as many hours as we were plugged in. Fridge was typically 50+ degrees which made any food storage (and medication) impossible. If we stayed one place more than 24 hours, we could freeze ice and it got cold, but that wasn't the typical travel pattern......and probably won't be for us. Thanks!
It seems to me your real issue with the Dometic 2351 is that it won't stay cold while you are towing. I suspect that you are cooling just fine on 120VAC, and not well on propane for some reason.

I just took a look at the operating manual. The fridge is 2 way only, no 12V mode like most small fridges. Have you tried it on propane while you are towing? It should cool just fine on propane while towing - just leave the gas "on" at the tank and the fridge in "Auto". If the burner blows out, it should relight. If it won't relight on propane, you will get a "check" light on the panel.

If you have a "check" light, you probably have an igniter or a gas flow issue. Also, check the manual gas valve at the fridge is open.

If you don't have a "check" light, and no cooling while towing, the issue is probably more complex.

Residential fridge/battery installations don't do well for travelling more than staying put. The issue is getting enough voltage and current to the camper batteries with the load of a residential fridge making demands on your 12V system.

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Old 07-05-2019, 07:29 PM   #13
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Well, it's out! Camper door is 20 1/4 inches wide. New fridge is 18.5 deep and 19 wide so I should be good to go. You know, you move your home fridge and are embarrassed by what you find there? This is 100 times worse, no lost toys or food, just hundreds of dead bugs......and a couple of dirt dobber's nests! Only complication appears to be that I'm going to have to raise the cook top about 1/2 inch.....maybe, maybe not. Old fridge did not want to give up, but I kept taking parts off and 280 lbs of determination, it came out!
Before:
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1Q...3Gn1KN7RmocHK1


During:
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1Q...NPvpBI7OVOlDZI


After:
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1Q...So7wlQeKoQzlCh
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Old 07-09-2019, 11:22 AM   #14
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what was the wattage of your inverter did you get one with transfer switch is it as simple as plug the inverter in plug in the fridge run the wires to the battery I have the same fridge and the same problem ive put fans on the back and a battery fan inside temp gets above 90 fridge goes up so thinking of doing residential fridge mod any help would be appreciated thank you
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Old 07-10-2019, 06:33 AM   #15
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I purchased this inverter. I suppose it's a plug-n-play, but getting it mounted, running the wires and plugging all the gaps, etc. sure do wear you out. The fridge link is below too. It fits through the door easily and you have to trim out the hole from the previous fridge. The inverter has an automatic switch on it, but I moved the outlet from the back of the fridge area to next to the inverter so that I could plug fridge into 110 when we are parked for extended lengths of time or when storing. Hope this helps!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


https://www.walmart.com/ip/Arctic-Ki...Black/49660452
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Old 07-10-2019, 08:13 AM   #16
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Installing one of these always error to larger wire to the batteries. Line loss on 12 volt is awful.

Whatever they recommend go bigger, smaller # gage.

Also you need an appropriate fuse or breaker in the 12 volt line! The fuse on that unit I would guess is for 110. Likely 80-100 amps?
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Old 07-10-2019, 08:27 AM   #17
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Great job!

Let us know how it works out for you as time goes on.
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Old 07-10-2019, 06:24 PM   #18
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Great job!

Let us know how it works out for you as time goes on.

We leave Sunday for another month on the road, but more of staying in one spot rather than 1 night at a time. I'm banking on the inverter to keep food cold while traveling--5 to 7 hours at a time. I'll report when we get there!


Thanks everyone for your input!
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Old 07-17-2019, 10:30 AM   #19
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Pulled out Sunday morning at 8 am and didn't plug back up to shore power until after 6 pm Sunday evening. Gas stops, breakfast and dinner and a short shopping excursion--all lasting about 45 minutes or so. Temp in the fridge stayed a very cool 36 degrees!



SUCCESS!!!


Here's the concluding pics:


New fridge in place, trimmed out.


https://photos.app.goo.gl/NG9JdtAX9negJ4kq9


Inverter installed, and yes, that junction box is dangling. Couple of screws took care of that.


https://photos.app.goo.gl/eE1mBB4ZCpkZrpKU9


BTW, I hate posting pics here. Is there an easier way?
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Old 07-17-2019, 10:39 AM   #20
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I thought most inverters have a transfer switch built in.
Some do and most don't. Depends on how you want to use an inverter.
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