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Old 09-23-2015, 03:26 PM   #11
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That is not the case. After the Airstream dealer found the contact not making a good connection, this gentleman's voltage at the 7pin went to 11v from 7v when not moving.
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Old 09-23-2015, 06:00 PM   #12
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You may think they are junk but mine has worked flawlessly on several Chevys I've had. Remember when going down grade to use tow haul mode to make it be in the most effective mode. Later RJD
I don`t think it was junk, I know it was junk. After getting a different truck and hooking up the trailer I had more trailer brakes then with less gain. With the old chevy I had my gain on 10 and in drive just idling it would still move the trailer. I know they all have issues from time to time.
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Old 09-23-2015, 06:33 PM   #13
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Did you try and ask for help at Turbo Diesel Register. Com. This is a fee site that is totally devoted to the Ram trucks with the Cummins engine, there are a couple of Ram tec 's on the site and could offer you a suggest on the Ram brake contoller.

That is the only site I trust for information on my Ram truck, been a member since Nov 2007, when I purchased my new 2008 Ram truck.
Yes Jim 34RL the TDR is the best place to go been a member since about 1998 Have had 3 Rams 96 12V 98.5 24v and this 2014 6.7 24V. Would not look any other place for info. drittal Did you use your exhaust Brake for the downhill grade. I pull 39ft 5th wheel with the the 2014 with no issue. I like the integrated brake controller.
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Old 09-23-2015, 06:51 PM   #14
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My story started out the same - brand new toy hauler, brand new truck (a GMC, but with a built-in brake controller) and I absolutely could NOT get the brakes to lock up. I also didn't feel that familiar 'yank' or grab I would experience when the brakes kicked in using my prior truck and it's aftermarket inertia controller. I took the truck and trailer to the GMC dealer and talked with a senior tech that does a lot of towing in his off-time. The explanation he gave, is that integrated controller is tied into the ABS system. It senses things like vehicle speed, steering wheel position and 'pedal aggression' (how hard/fast the brake pedal is being applied) and determines the appropriate braking for the trailer.

He said that fully activating the slider won't "go to 10" on the gain, but to the max you've set. If that's 3, then full slider is 3, and that is commonly misunderstood by people that have used inertia controllers before.

I was skeptical... and he offered to prove himself correct. Against my better judgment, we hit the streets. At 10-15 MPH, full application of the slider with no pedal gently slowed down the rig. At 45, it yanked the truck hard - but didn't lock the brakes. at 35ish, which is all my terrified soul could muster, a hard stomp on he brake chirped the trailer tires quite a bit, but we stopped in a really short distance.

So - I believe there's some magic in the controllers - the power to stop is there when you need it, but the every day behavior is not what you might expect at first.

I expect your truck may be working the same way
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Old 09-23-2015, 07:12 PM   #15
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The 7 pin connector has a connector that plugs into the back side of it. It secures on the side exactly opposite of the trailer brake pin. Ie, the lip is top driver side, the pin is bottom passenger side. IMO I think this is the reason why a good connection is not being made.

Long story short, I popped the 7 pin and 4 pin receptacle out of the bumper. I believe the offending connector is plugged in to the back side of this. I pulled it out and used a pick to beND the female connector to make better contact with the male.

I now have 10.5v and the brakes hold me back as well as I think they should.
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Old 09-23-2015, 07:34 PM   #16
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My story started out the same - brand new toy hauler, brand new truck (a GMC, but with a built-in brake controller) and I absolutely could NOT get the brakes to lock up. I also didn't feel that familiar 'yank' or grab I would experience when the brakes kicked in using my prior truck and it's aftermarket inertia controller. I took the truck and trailer to the GMC dealer and talked with a senior tech that does a lot of towing in his off-time. The explanation he gave, is that integrated controller is tied into the ABS system. It senses things like vehicle speed, steering wheel position and 'pedal aggression' (how hard/fast the brake pedal is being applied) and determines the appropriate braking for the trailer.

He said that fully activating the slider won't "go to 10" on the gain, but to the max you've set. If that's 3, then full slider is 3, and that is commonly misunderstood by people that have used inertia controllers before.

I was skeptical... and he offered to prove himself correct. Against my better judgment, we hit the streets. At 10-15 MPH, full application of the slider with no pedal gently slowed down the rig. At 45, it yanked the truck hard - but didn't lock the brakes. at 35ish, which is all my terrified soul could muster, a hard stomp on he brake chirped the trailer tires quite a bit, but we stopped in a really short distance.

So - I believe there's some magic in the controllers - the power to stop is there when you need it, but the every day behavior is not what you might expect at first.

I expect your truck may be working the same way
My dealer tech told me something close, but might be a bit different. And the difference might be I have a '15 and a 1500 vs your 2500.

He said to adjust the gain as explained in the owner's manual. And that will be the max gain if applied manually by the control lever on the dash. However, he said that the maximum gain supplied by the ABS controller will most likely never hit the maximum that was dialed in.

I believe I have that right....but it has been about six months.
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Old 09-23-2015, 08:31 PM   #17
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Great post. I will have to check this outbon my EcoD, as I needed tl set my gain to 8.5 when my prodigy was under half.
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Old 09-23-2015, 09:04 PM   #18
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The Ram controller does have an accelerometer and will use it to adjust the pulse width. That said, I had 7.4v before, 10.5 now.

2 members on another site needed quick stops and we're left in intersections.

With the same trailer my 2015 needed 6.5 gain where my father's 2012 needed 3.5.
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Old 09-23-2015, 09:10 PM   #19
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This is the response from the Airstream guy who was the first one we found to get his issue resolved.

"On the 2015 Ram the 7 pin receptacle that is joined to the bumper can be removed. That 7 pin receptacle then can be removed from the wiring harness via a quick release, sort of. After removing the the 7 pin they observed how the two plugs mated via looking at the marks on the electrical connections. One of them they felt did not look like a good connection. They used a dental tool and bent one of the leads. Then they filled all the connections with a clear electrical jelly stuff. After that we got the numbers. On full gain and full braking 10 volts plus is within spec. So I was told.

PS: I forgot to mention in prior threads that the original RAM controller, after testing and the dealer said they see no issues and after my insistence, replaced the original controller with a controller off another new truck on the lot. Same issue persisted in my braking tests. That's when I went back to the dealer and they did the above test and procedure and everything works fine. "
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Old 09-23-2015, 09:13 PM   #20
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Yes Jim 34RL the TDR is the best place to go been a member since about 1998 Have had 3 Rams 96 12V 98.5 24v and this 2014 6.7 24V. Would not look any other place for info. drittal Did you use your exhaust Brake for the downhill grade. I pull 39ft 5th wheel with the the 2014 with no issue. I like the integrated brake controller.

I have a 6.4 hemi. I wish I had an exhaust brake. From the 4 forums I have gleaned or participated in this discussion, no 2014 Ram owners have reported an issue.
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