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Old 04-29-2014, 10:18 PM   #21
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Can you borrow his truck and fix on your own? Might be another avenue for you.
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Old 04-29-2014, 11:00 PM   #22
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Here's the deal, I know what's wrong with it, fixed hundreds myself, greased, replaced, redistributed the grease, even installed a grease fitting or two.

I can replace one of those in less than ten minutes including the time to get the tools out and put them back. On my truck I'm just going to install a grease fitting and call it done.

However, I show up to buy that truck, I'll point that knock out and will promptly try to knock $500 off the price just over that, before the other things I may find.

So, it's good money to replace it.
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Old 04-29-2014, 11:21 PM   #23
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Ok guys.
Recommending to someone to drill a hole in a steering shaft to add a grease zert is not a good idea.
This shaft is a MAJOR SAFETY COMPONENT!!!!! The noise is not!!! Drilling a hole in it IS NOT SAFE. This will weeken the shaft and could cause failure. That is why gm would have you repack the grease.

What you do on your own is on you, but lets not recommend things that could cause a serious safety issue...please!
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Old 04-29-2014, 11:36 PM   #24
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I certainly appreciate each recommendation here and will figure a way to swap it out. I have to ride a narrow fence here. He GAVE me a 1995 z71 4wd when he moved last month. So I want to help as much as I can but can't be pushy. He's taking wife to doctor out of town soon, in their SUV, so I'll have opportunity then to do it. I'll keep you posted.
Milletime, thanks for pointing out the safety issue. While I do have tap and die set, I'm not eager to do that on his truck. Just want to get it quieted for selling. Knocks and bumps equal less $$$ as sknight knows.

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Old 04-30-2014, 08:32 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MillerTime View Post
Ok guys.
Recommending to someone to drill a hole in a steering shaft to add a grease zert is not a good idea.
This shaft is a MAJOR SAFETY COMPONENT!!!!! The noise is not!!! Drilling a hole in it IS NOT SAFE. This will weeken the shaft and could cause failure. That is why gm would have you repack the grease.

What you do on your own is on you, but lets not recommend things that could cause a serious safety issue...please!
What he said.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dcheatwood View Post
I certainly appreciate each recommendation here and will figure a way to swap it out. I have to ride a narrow fence here. He GAVE me a 1995 z71 4wd when he moved last month. So I want to help as much as I can but can't be pushy. He's taking wife to doctor out of town soon, in their SUV, so I'll have opportunity then to do it. I'll keep you posted.
Milletime, thanks for pointing out the safety issue. While I do have tap and die set, I'm not eager to do that on his truck. Just want to get it quieted for selling. Knocks and bumps equal less $$$ as sknight knows.

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Please do not drill it and tap for grease zerk. As was stated, this will not allow the steering colunm to collapse, in the event of a head on collision.

1. Immobolize the steering wheel.
2. Unbolt the steering colunm from the steering box (2) bolts.
3. Grab the lower portion of the steering colunm with your hand.
4. Push lower portion, up inside of upper portion. (repeat 1/2 dozen times.)
5. Re attach colunm to steering steering box.
6. Cut the steering wheel loose.
7. Open cold beer.
8. Drink cold beer.

This will take under 30 minutes and quiet it down for the next 10 to 12 months. Longer if he doesn't drive it much.
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Old 04-30-2014, 10:33 AM   #26
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^^^^ did that a few times!
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Old 05-01-2014, 02:55 PM   #27
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OK. Just pulled the intermediate steering shaft. It was clean, no slack and no grease. Completely dry. Has yellowish, plastic looking splines. Was hard to pull at first but loosened a little after cycling it a few times. Added grease and worked back and forth another 20 times. Still snug. Replaced and drove. BUMP BUMP. No change. Still feel no vibration in the steering wheel. Thinking it has to be shock or suspension. But sounds like its just left of the steering wheel, under dash, near firewall.
Thanks for your thought. We gave it a try.

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Old 05-01-2014, 03:37 PM   #28
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There was also a problem with the bolts in the crossmember that runs underneath the oil pan. I had that problem after changing the intermediate shaft I pulled the crossmember bolts and turned them around and the problem was solved, for about a year. After that I just got used to it...
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Old 05-01-2014, 03:47 PM   #29
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There's still no grease in the splines. It's a tight enough fit that it will feel tight in your hands, might be hard to pull apart, but I promise you there's no grease where it needs to be. GM supplied a plug with the kits, you extend the shaft all the way out, wring a sizable wad of grease into the cavity, insert the plug which was an actual locking screw, put it on the floor standing up, wrap a rag around the top and put your weight into it. It was so tight that even with my 250lb tail on it reaching the bottom took 30 seconds or so.

Engine off, wheel unlocked, grab it and shake it back and forth with your hand. If it knocks, it's the shaft.

Here's the GM kit so you can see what I'm talking about.

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Old 05-01-2014, 03:55 PM   #30
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adding to the conversation, my 2003 2500HD was clunking and never really cared until is learned via this forum how easy it was to "fix" 1 - 15mm socket and ratchet, about 5 minutes from beginning to end using process noted previously in this post. Worked for me, just gonna see how long it lasts
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