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Old 05-01-2014, 04:37 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by MillerTime
Ok guys.
Recommending to someone to drill a hole in a steering shaft to add a grease zert is not a good idea.
This shaft is a MAJOR SAFETY COMPONENT!!!!! The noise is not!!! Drilling a hole in it IS NOT SAFE. This will weeken the shaft and could cause failure. That is why gm would have you repack the grease.

What you do on your own is on you, but lets not recommend things that could cause a serious safety issue...please!

What he said.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dcheatwood
I certainly appreciate each recommendation here and will figure a way to swap it out. I have to ride a narrow fence here. He GAVE me a 1995 z71 4wd when he moved last month. So I want to help as much as I can but can't be pushy. He's taking wife to doctor out of town soon, in their SUV, so I'll have opportunity then to do it. I'll keep you posted.
Milletime, thanks for pointing out the safety issue. While I do have tap and die set, I'm not eager to do that on his truck. Just want to get it quieted for selling. Knocks and bumps equal less $$$ as sknight knows.

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Please do not drill it and tap for grease zerk. As was stated, this will not allow the steering colunm to collapse, in the event of a head on collision.

WOW! Talk about being over protective! Absolutely no way on god's green earth will a hole for a grease fitting kill someone in an accident, for one thing, when completed the shaft still moves freely!A another thing that you can check is to grab the shaft at the bottom of the steering column and see if it moves, it may also be the lower column bearing, very cheap part and another easy fix if it moves.
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Old 05-01-2014, 05:34 PM   #32
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I'm sure glad you said it. Thank you!
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Old 05-01-2014, 06:51 PM   #33
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Thanks. I read about and watched a video on regreasing and using the plug to force grease thru the splines. This shaft has no play in it at all. We've tried from the top, underneath and under dash. There is no slack. Not lateral or linear. Have not taken cross member off. Could you tell it was loose before you removed it?

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Old 05-01-2014, 08:23 PM   #34
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Forgot to post this picture from today.

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Old 05-01-2014, 08:58 PM   #35
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This vehicle has reputation for weak tie rod endings. If you need one you may as well replace both you avoid 2'nd alignment charges. Replaced both of mine 8 months apart
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Old 05-02-2014, 12:08 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by updhaul View Post
This vehicle has reputation for weak tie rod endings. If you need one you may as well replace both you avoid 2'nd alignment charges. Replaced both of mine 8 months apart
the tie rods are the weak part but they will never bend unless you do 4x4 launches, and if you count the 1/2 turns while removing the ball joint and install the sleeves, alignment is not required, and or measure with a 64th scale with the half shafts total length removed
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Old 05-02-2014, 01:33 PM   #37
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Good. So basically making sure they are exactly the same length as the original? Sounds simple but I think its time for him to find professional help. He's taken it in twice and was told they couldn't find the source of the bump and to ignore it.

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Old 05-02-2014, 11:22 PM   #38
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Dcheatwood. I sent you a message.
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Old 05-03-2014, 07:13 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by dcheatwood View Post
OK. Just pulled the intermediate steering shaft. It was clean, no slack and no grease. Completely dry. Has yellowish, plastic looking splines. Was hard to pull at first but loosened a little after cycling it a few times. Added grease and worked back and forth another 20 times. Still snug. Replaced and drove. BUMP BUMP. No change. Still feel no vibration in the steering wheel. Thinking it has to be shock or suspension. But sounds like its just left of the steering wheel, under dash, near firewall.
Thanks for your thought. We gave it a try.

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Man I am so sorry that, that did not cure the problem.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Crusadernoob View Post
Originally Posted by MillerTime
Ok guys.
Recommending to someone to drill a hole in a steering shaft to add a grease zert is not a good idea.
This shaft is a MAJOR SAFETY COMPONENT!!!!! The noise is not!!! Drilling a hole in it IS NOT SAFE. This will weeken the shaft and could cause failure. That is why gm would have you repack the grease.

What you do on your own is on you, but lets not recommend things that could cause a serious safety issue...please!
What he said.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dcheatwood
I certainly appreciate each recommendation here and will figure a way to swap it out. I have to ride a narrow fence here. He GAVE me a 1995 z71 4wd when he moved last month. So I want to help as much as I can but can't be pushy. He's taking wife to doctor out of town soon, in their SUV, so I'll have opportunity then to do it. I'll keep you posted.
Milletime, thanks for pointing out the safety issue. While I do have tap and die set, I'm not eager to do that on his truck. Just want to get it quieted for selling. Knocks and bumps equal less $$$ as sknight knows.

Sent from my XT907 using Forest River Forums mobile app

Please do not drill it and tap for grease zerk. As was stated, this will not allow the steering colunm to collapse, in the event of a head on collision.

WOW! Talk about being over protective! Absolutely no way on god's green earth will a hole for a grease fitting kill someone in an accident, for one thing, when completed the shaft still moves freely!A another thing that you can check is to grab the shaft at the bottom of the steering column and see if it moves, it may also be the lower column bearing, very cheap part and another easy fix if it moves.
I'll take one more shot at this, and I'm out.

In a head on collision, the steering column is designed to collaspe and not impail the driver causing seriuos injury, or death.

In order for it to collaspe, there must be a space inside of the upper shaft, for the the lower to IMMEDIATLY slide into. If that space is filled with grease from the installation of a zerk and over zealous grease gun pumping, the lower CANNOT move into that space.

Have you ever heard or a "hydralic lock"? When a cylinder fills with fluid, (water, gasoline, diesel fuel etc.) the piston locks up, because the fluid is occupieing the space, where the piston needs to go.

This is the same principal.

Good luck with the repairs. My 03 has over 300,000 miles on it, I no longer own the 03 Yukon my wife used to drive, but I built both of them from repo's (Yukon) or wrecks (Dmax), so I felt pretty confident in my diagnosis of the origin of your noise.

Sorry I was incorrect.
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Old 05-03-2014, 09:44 AM   #40
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Hey man. I learned a lot from your, and other's posts here. And I appreciate the wisdom shared. I'll post the solution, if ever determined, so everyone can add it to their own knowledge base. Thanks again.

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