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Old 04-22-2013, 09:02 PM   #21
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The only complaints on my 2011 (exact same drivetrain as the 12-13) is that when I lived in Yellowknife, NWT, the DEF would freeze and kill the DEF pump if the temperatures stayed below -40C (-40F is the same! ) for an extended period of time. I also had Ford install a bypass unit on the power steering as most trucks would blow power steering hoses at -30 - -40 as the fluid got too thick to flow.
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Old 04-22-2013, 09:25 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Horns07 View Post
I want to replace the factory speakers and head unit. But can't find anyone who has researched to see what will fit.
FYI when replacing the head unit be very careful when pulling the dash trim around the radio. It is pretty thin up top and too much force could cause it to crack. The PAC kits to tie in the steering wheel controls work but there will be some hesitation between pushing the buttons and the radio responding (just a short delay). I would actually recommend a wireless remote. You can go with a standard double DIN and fit perfect or get a single DIN and most kits will provide another snap in piece that might be a little tray of some sorts. You will also need an antenna adapter to go from Ford to standard.

Speakers aren't too bad to replace up front if you are OK with pulling the door panels off, the rears (at least in my '10) will take a pretty big torx bit to pull the trim off (seatbelt bolt) if they are behind the seats in the sidewall. If they are in the doors they would be much easier.

If you have sync today you will most likely lose your USB, aux, and microphone that are built in unless you want to tap into the wiring. For the USB it is not to bad, but the mic is a different story (i just used another mic.). You can also tie into the existing Sat antenna if you want to use it, the box and antenna are buried under the drivers side dash close to the door.

Hope this helps!
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Old 04-23-2013, 03:21 PM   #23
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Speakers aren't too bad to replace up front if you are OK with pulling the door panels off, the rears (at least in my '10) will take a pretty big torx bit to pull the trim off (seatbelt bolt) if they are behind the seats in the sidewall. If they are in the doors they would be much easier.


Hope this helps!

I just popped the lower panels in the rear off and left the seatbelts attached and pulled the panels out as far as the seatbelt allowed. This made it quite easy to replace the rear speakers.
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Old 04-23-2013, 03:54 PM   #24
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Those with the 2012-2013 with 6.7L any complaints with the power train or exhaust system?
10,000 miles on my 2012 and no issues.
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Old 04-23-2013, 04:00 PM   #25
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Yep, probably work as well. I have most of the tools and found it much easier to work with everything removed, especially as I work to tap into wiring. It is all personal preference though.

Then again I also had the rest of the truck torn apart to install the alarm, remote start, and overhead monitor. What was one more panel
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Old 04-23-2013, 11:03 PM   #26
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Yep, probably work as well. I have most of the tools and found it much easier to work with everything removed, especially as I work to tap into wiring. It is all personal preference though.

Then again I also had the rest of the truck torn apart to install the alarm, remote start, and overhead monitor. What was one more panel

How hard did I find the remote start and overhead monitor to install?
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Old 04-23-2013, 11:43 PM   #27
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How hard did I find the remote start and overhead monitor to install?
Remote starts really aren't to bad, and are actually much easier in trucks as you have a lot easier access and more room to get under the dash (as compared to my Accord). You need to be comfortable with identifying wires, checking voltage, and either stripping or clipping them and soldering. Quite a few options out there by my preferred are DEI products. You do need to pay special attention to default settings in programming like crank time, wait to start, etc. New vehicles have security modules you have to bypass and DEI makes kits like the PKALL and DBALL which will allow this without the need to keep a spare key in the dash somewhere. The DBALL will tie into the CANBUS and makes programming and bypassing security easier. Sometimes the lock/unlock wires are a pain as you need to grab them from the passenger side vs. the driver side (cannot remember on the Fseries and my 350 had it factory). Biggest pain can often be pulling the steering wheel shroud without scratching it if you need to hit the vehicles security system/key sense wires. FYI, if you install an alarm system you cannot unlock your f series with the keypad on outside of door w/out setting the alarm off (which does stink a little) but still worth it in my opinion and most cars will have a quirk or two.

As for the overhead monitor that was pretty simple, especially w/out a sunroof. You do need to pull the ceiling down a bit, but not completely off and either identify somewhere to mounts the screws to hold it up without puncturing the roof or add a reinforcement that will spread the weight of the monitor evenly and give you a mountable surface. What I did was insert a piece of 1/8" or so plywood in between the headliner and the roof line where the monitor was to achieve this and hold my 10" monitor. Not heavy enough and spread weight over enough area (18" x 18") in the headliner to prevent sag. Then cut a small hole on the headliner to run audio/video/power and fish through to drivers door to be run down pillar and connect to radio. I had reading lights on mine as well that I tapped into the lights in the headliner at the rear of the truck.

I have done one or two of each
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Old 04-23-2013, 11:44 PM   #28
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52,000 miles; no complaints/issues on our '12 F-250. Tinted the windows; added a foldup tonneau; B&W Patriot 16K hitch; Firestone airbags & onboard compressor. Great truck.
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