3/4 ton diesel

[DocGTO]

Originally Posted by jevanb

part of that is truth. This is from the GM service information.... Bulletin #08-06-04-006L

For 2007-2013 applications, an engine control module (ECM) algorithm was implemented that records the engine calibration part number and calibration verification number (CVN) for the last 10 flash programming events. The ECM records the engine calibration part number because it contains the parameters for increasing torque and fueling rates.

If a vehicle comes in for service for a driveability/powertrain concern as a result of a Power-Up Kit installation, the technician can read the last 10 engine calibration part numbers and CVN history using a Tech 2®.

The technician will input each ECM calibration part number into the TIS2WEB/SPS CVN database to confirm the CVN history information. Refer to the following Tech 2® path table to verify the ECM calibrations. So if you happen to have a GM tech in your pocket, have them flash your ECM 11 times and then go get your warranty work done. Also onstar will send messages via email if you put anything on the OBD like a H&S, bully dog, CTS

I don't do big brother so no subscription to Onstar and a disconnected antenna. The asst service manager is a buddy so no worries but I don't add 2 gazillion horsepower tunes to my truck and he knows that. Since my factory stock tune is saved on my Autocal, I guess I just load it up 10 times before I bring it to the dealer. Lol.

All emissions is still equipped and just a custom EFI tow tune to help milage and towing ability. No tuner constantly installed in my ODB. What's funny is that I've had more issues with non tuned PSDs and Duramaxs in the past. My LMM ran hot as **** with the stock tune and all I got was that's normal. Right after a dealer visit to check everything out I towed to VIR and in the NC mountains the coolant temps hit 230 and went into limp mode. Normal huh? My ass. I then tuned it ( I had an a Edge that I was just using as gauges at the time) and the truck ran almost 20 degrees cooler and when I got back to town, I traded that pig. My LML is a much better motor and runs cooler over the older LMM.

Questions the that TSB, you are saying it covers LBZ (in the 07 classic body), LMM, and LML up to 13? I've seen the Tech 2 in action and never saw that info 1st hand. Only what I spoke of earlier.

[jevanb]

just lots of debate at the shop about this. will they look? prob not, unless the engine is torn down and the tech has to verify
#06-06-01-007A: Information on Identifying Duramax Diesel LB7, LLY, LMM, LBZ Overpower Engine Breakdown or Non-Function Due to Aftermarket Power-Up Devices vs. Non Overpower Engine Non-Function of Pistons, Cylinders
How to handle an engine failure suspected due to a power up Device.

Dealers should not automatically decline warranty assistance on engine failures due to the fact that a power-up device or modification is evident or suspected. The technician must identify that the failure is due to a power-up device by teardown analysis and diagnosis of the engine components. The following steps should be taken if an engine failure occurs and it is suspected that the modification or addition of a power-up device maybe the cause of the engine failure. If unclear of this process or direction feel free to contact your District Service Manager (DVM) (in Canada, DSM) for further support.
The technician should use proper engine diagnostics to lead him/her to the failed engine components. The attached check sheet should be followed and if it is determined that at least three of the check sheet items match the engine component failures then it can be decided that the failure is not a warrantable claim.
Engine failures that meet at least three criteria of the check sheet are considered failures that are not manufacturers defects in workmanship or materials
The dealership should contact the PQC, open a case to review the findings and make the final decision on warranty coverage. The DVM (in Canada, DSM) should be notified of the PQC decision.
Denied claims should be documented as follows: a. The check sheet completed with the technicians detailed written findings of his diagnosis on the repair order.
b. Photographs of the failed parts should be maintained in the RO file.
The customer should be advised that the failure of their engine was not due to a manufacturer's defect in workmanship or materials and therefore the warranty claim is denied on this failure.
GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.

[jevanb]

Originally Posted by DocGTO

Questions the that TSB, you are saying it covers LBZ (in the 07 classic body), LMM, and LML up to 13? I've seen the Tech 2 in action and never saw that info 1st hand. Only what I spoke of earlier.

I have a tech 2 (china version) but with the same version S/W I will look, and the info I presented are from prior post on another site.

[DocGTO]

Originally Posted by jevanb

I have a tech 2 (china version) but with the same version S/W I will look, and the info I presented are from prior post on another site.

Cool. Thanks. Are you on the Duramax forums?

[jevanb]

Originally Posted by DocGTO

Cool. Thanks. Are you on the Duramax forums?

yes and about 10 other duramax specific sites. I got kind of crazy back in 06 when I rode in a friends 01 LB7 with 700hp, at that time i went out and bought myself one (LBZ) and my wallet has been empty ever since

[DocGTO]

Originally Posted by jevanb

yes and about 10 other duramax specific sites. I got kind of crazy back in 06 when I rode in a friends 01 LB7 with 700hp, at that time i went out and bought myself one (LBZ) and my wallet has been empty ever since

Lol. Kinda know what you mean!

[Iwannacamp]

At the risk of abuse... Most people "think about it" don't "tune" their diesel for economy. They do it for bragging rights.

IMHO if you want a race car...then buy one. Stop trying to tear up a reliable vehicle. I cannot/will not pay that much money for something and TRY to tear it up. EX: I bought a new Jeep Wrangler and sold it almost three years later. They said this sure is a clean Jeep... I said I just didn't try to tear it up.


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[jevanb]

I bought mine to pull and race. my truck I do what I want I paid for it

semt from my s4 mini

[ironj]

Originally Posted by Iwannacamp

At the risk of abuse... Most people "think about it" don't "tune" their diesel for economy. They do it for bragging rights.

IMHO if you want a race car...then buy one. Stop trying to tear up a reliable vehicle. I cannot/will not pay that much money for something and TRY to tear it up. EX: I bought a new Jeep Wrangler and sold it almost three years later. They said this sure is a clean Jeep... I said I just didn't try to tear it up.


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Thats mostly not true in my experience.. my fil, bil, and my cousin and myself have 8 diesels between us....every one tuned (with a mild "tow") tune...

In my case I just wanted better fueling maps and to try and pick up some mpg lost with the lift and wheels/tires....and for all of us towing performance/mpg was the main reason

Granted at some point I will fully delete it and run a more . "performance" oriented tune...

Much like my 03 cobra, the right "bolt ons" can really unleash the potential ford engineers put into the motor...its pretty commmon to see a base 390hp terminator running some basic simple aftermarket parts and a tune puting 500+ hp to the wheels with nary a issue...the stock internals are forged and easily handle the power for the full life of the motor...no nitrous or race gas...just pump fuel..

I dont do it to abuse them or race them (but ive run em a few times sure!!) Same can be said of my camry, 3 series, X5 , gsxr, and boat...I use em , maintain em and they always last and are hardly tore up....

Sure there are guys who do...thier money, thier toys.!!.I fly model helis too...ive crashed and wasted my fair share of money there fo sho!! Lol

Edit: I race the crap and bash with my razr...and I did blow the motor on my minibike by removing the governor ..I wanted to rebuild it anyway...no harm no foul...

[Cajun Po-Boy]

Originally Posted by Iwannacamp

At the risk of abuse... Most people "think about it" don't "tune" their diesel for economy. They do it for bragging rights.

IMHO if you want a race car...then buy one. Stop trying to tear up a reliable vehicle. I cannot/will not pay that much money for something and TRY to tear it up. EX: I bought a new Jeep Wrangler and sold it almost three years later. They said this sure is a clean Jeep... I said I just didn't try to tear it up.

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Say what???

Don't think you're gonna find one guy on this forum who has a tuned truck that is doing it for bragging rights or to trash their truck...we're doing it for better drivability.

I assume your statement could also be said of those here who "mod" their campers with aftermarket gadgets that you can't get installed from the RV manufacturers, guess they're doing it for bragging rights and trashing their RV...PLEASE!

See you on the road in my rear view mirror ,)

[Iwannacamp]

Originally Posted by Cajun Po-Boy

Say what???

Don't think you're gonna find one guy on this forum who has a tuned truck that is doing it for bragging rights or to trash their truck...we're doing it for better drivability.

I assume your statement could also be said of those here who "mod" their campers with aftermarket gadgets that you can't get installed from the RV manufacturers, guess they're doing it for bragging rights and trashing their RV...PLEASE!

See you on the road in my rear view mirror ,)

I prolly should just drop this....

I have NO objections to mods. Most of the time you can get a more useable/custom product. I agree 100%

My misunderstood thought is "hot-rodding" your pick-up. I depend on mine and need it to be reliable....again, my truck my option. Your truck your opinion.


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[ironj]

A valid argument can be made that the mods (while illegal and in violation of epa regs) make a newer vehicle MORE reliable.....

But definanlty a tuner can be a hot rodding tool...all depends on how the tool is implemented. ..many do then cry when things break....

[jevanb]

Like the government never got things wrong (EPA) or the white house

semt from my s4 mini

[Brother Les]

Stock... is just middle of the road. Not the best for pull'n (sleds and/or trailers), not the best for mileage, not the best high performance drag racing. It is over all general for usage, but to get the best performance out of your equipment, I think that (imo) you should 'tune/chip' your truck to be able to change it for what situation that you are using it. The bottom line factor of what that does is change your shift points and RPMs.


My sig line has some of my mods. I do these for the betterment of my truck, not to tear it up.

[Ford Idaho]

Other than tires and wheels mine is bone stock.
Most days I light foot it because it is tough on tires as it sits, more HP is really not needed but I would like to put an air intake system on it for a little more air.

Doubt I chip it, air bags and shocks are first.

[ironj]

Shocks n bags make a nice diff!!...but the poor lil factory lt tires stand no chance against moderate throttle. ...the track control kicks In every time!!..

[jevanb]

Originally Posted by Ford Idaho

Other than tires and wheels mine is bone stock.
Most days I light foot it because it is tough on tires as it sits, more HP is really not needed but I would like to put an air intake system on it for a little more air.

Doubt I chip it, air bags and shocks are first.

Factory intake systems are a great at flowing air in all 3 manufacturers not needed until 500 hp at the wheels , their is lots of dyno info out their about this. The gains are almost 0 until you need more air .. I ran a factory system up till 450 then I did a few runs with the cold air and it added about 12 hp. For the price they ask for intake systems their are better ways to get higher hp, or dependability , plus with a cold air the MAF needs recalibrated which people never do...


semt from my s4 mini

[DocGTO]

Originally Posted by jevanb

Like the government never got things wrong (EPA) or the white house

semt from my s4 mini

No joke...

Originally Posted by Brother Les

Stock... is just middle of the road. Not the best for pull'n (sleds and/or trailers), not the best for mileage, not the best high performance drag racing. It is over all general for usage, but to get the best performance out of your equipment, I think that (imo) you should 'tune/chip' your truck to be able to change it for what situation that you are using it. The bottom line factor of what that does is change your shift points and RPMs.


My sig line has some of my mods. I do these for the betterment of my truck, not to tear it up.

So far, I haven't seen a stock tune since the EGR came into play that was worth a crap. They wanted to run them hotter and hotter.... Not until they came out with the urea systems did they start to cool things down.

Originally Posted by jevanb

Factory intake systems are a great at flowing air in all 3 manufacturers not needed until 500 hp at the wheels , their is lots of dyno info out their about this. The gains are almost 0 until you need more air .. I ran a factory system up till 450 then I did a few runs with the cold air and it added about 12 hp. For the price they ask for intake systems their are better ways to get higher hp, or dependability , plus with a cold air the MAF needs recalibrated which people never do...


semt from my s4 mini

True dat.

[Travler]

4 inch exhaust, cold air intake, & EFI live tuning. Runs great & get 20 mpg unloaded.


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[JFM-jr]

The DPF and cat fell off of my 08 along with EGR. Has a 4inch exhaust like the factory one and 24 inch muffler so its not much louder and drone free. With EFI Live tuning my Fuel milage has gone up and the exhaust brake becomes available for me when tow/haul button is engauged and i really like that. Slight bump in power via 5 different tunes on a change on the fly rotary knob from 30 to 120hp in 30 hp increments. Most factory intakes provide plenty of air for up to around 500hp and IMO are a waste of money. My tunes are very clean and I am very happy with the way the truck currently is set up.