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Old 01-27-2013, 08:34 PM   #1
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5th Wheel Latch Kit

Hope I'm ready for the new 5er now. I installed one of Butch's Services hitch latch kits. I'm one of those who have when it comes to dropping a 5er on the pickup bed. I'm pretty anal about all that process now, but it only takes one small distraction to cause it to happen again. I hope this will help keep it from happening.

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Old 02-02-2013, 02:02 PM   #2
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Waiting on them to make more so I can buy mine
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Old 02-02-2013, 02:19 PM   #3
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Like that setup, less bulky than other models offered.



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Old 02-02-2013, 02:43 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by NevadaM View Post
Hope I'm ready for the new 5er now. I installed one of Butch's Services hitch latch kits. I'm one of those who have when it comes to dropping a 5er on the pickup bed. I'm pretty anal about all that process now, but it only takes one small distraction to cause it to happen again. I hope this will help keep it from happening.

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What make/model is your hitch?
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Old 02-03-2013, 12:01 AM   #5
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With these Butch Kits- do you actively have to do something to "engage" it? Or is it always engaged and it isn't something that you have to remember?
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Old 02-03-2013, 12:06 AM   #6
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B47, Not sure of the exact model, it's a Husky 16k easy glide (rolls back about 11"). I went to Butch's site and found one under 'other hitches' that looked the same except for the roll feature. When the latch came, it fit perfectly and installed in minutes. It's another step to add to the hook-up procedure, but likely worth it. With a new trailer and all, I'm tempted to put together a check list.

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Old 02-03-2013, 12:14 AM   #7
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Ependydad,

No you have to remember to close the latch (by sliding the shaft across into the keeper on the other side) after the pin is latched into the hitch. Preferably before you raise the front jacks. I always do a light tug with the pickup after backing in and hearing the hitch close just to make sure the hitch really did close, then when I walk back to finish and visually inspect the hitch status I close the latch so when I do raise the front jacks and pull out it's in place.

It stays there until such time you have released the hitch to unhook, you then slide the latch keeper back toward you before you pull away.

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Old 02-03-2013, 01:13 AM   #8
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am not sure if that would bolt onto mine or not

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Old 02-03-2013, 07:55 AM   #9
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I talked to Butch earlier this week. He said he should have more done this upcoming week. During our conversation I let him know I have a sidewinder. He asked me to take a picture from a cross sectional view of it hooked up which I did Friday before heading out to the CG. He said that the thick steel plate that locks the sidewinder into the hitch can sometimes interfere with the latch. He said he can make one that will work though. So if you have a sidewinder make sure you check with him before ordering.
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Old 02-03-2013, 08:21 AM   #10
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I'm curious, how does one actually drop a a fifth wheel? Is it user error or a mechanical failure? With the hitch I have now(draw bar), it's possible to drop a fifth, it's either closed or open. There is no mistaking it. I'm upgrading hitch, but is there that much uncertainty of whether the hitch is closed or not, that you have to add additional equipment for safety?
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Old 02-03-2013, 08:40 AM   #11
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I'm curious, how does one actually drop a a fifth wheel? Is it user error or a mechanical failure? With the hitch I have now(draw bar), it's possible to drop a fifth, it's either closed or open. There is no mistaking it. I'm upgrading hitch, but is there that much uncertainty of whether the hitch is closed or not, that you have to add additional equipment for safety?
Good question...no uncertainty with my PullRite!



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Old 02-03-2013, 08:59 AM   #12
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I'm curious, how does one actually drop a a fifth wheel? Is it user error or a mechanical failure? With the hitch I have now(draw bar), it's impossible to drop a fifth, it's either closed or open. There is no mistaking it.
Same here.
And I have to wonder, if a hitch is so unreliable that one has to install such a backup, why not just buy a better hitch?
I never give ours a second thought.
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Old 02-03-2013, 09:02 AM   #13
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It is just a safety thing a just in case type of thing. A lot cheaper then what it cost to repair your 5ver and tow vehicle.
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Old 02-03-2013, 09:33 AM   #14
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I understand concept, but still wonder if its a user error or a malfunction of a jaw type hitch. There is no doubt in a draw bar hitch being fully engaged. But there is play in the hitch, and is the reason for my upgrade. I just want to know if there is a mechanical flaw inherent with these hitches or if its a human error problem. If its human error in not checking whether hitch is locked, how would you remember to close a bar on a safety device? If its a design flaw, maybe I should engineer a new hitch.
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Old 02-03-2013, 09:46 AM   #15
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I have never dropped one but post who has and you would be surprised
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Old 02-03-2013, 10:01 AM   #16
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I understand concept, but still wonder if its a user error or a malfunction of a jaw type hitch. There is no doubt in a draw bar hitch being fully engaged. But there is play in the hitch, and is the reason for my upgrade.
What brand of hitch do you have?
We have the drawbar type, and it is very tight, no play whatsoever.
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Old 02-03-2013, 10:03 AM   #17
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It's my understanding that MOST dropped hitches are from user error. The 2 biggest reasons that I've read about are:

A) High-hitching where the pin ends up being too high. The latch closes, but the pin isn't really grabbed. I think this is more prevalent on some hitch types than others (e.g. draw bars).

B) A break down in process (e.g. missing a step or doing things out of order) - missing a step like forgetting to latch the arm. Or doing things out of order - like unhitching before lowering the landing gear.

That all said- (I've never used these devices) I personally don't like what I have read and imagined to Butch's hitch saver device - my problem is generally that I sometimes turn into a space cadet (I moved the fiver with my between-the-wheel chocks still in place once). I don't like that I actually have to do something with Butch's hitch saver. I want it to always be engaged in case I fluck up.

It's my understanding that the Blue Ox Bedsaver is just that- it's always engaged and only catches the pin if you drop that FW. Though, I think it's close to $300 vs. Butch's bed saver which is way less.

Just my $0.02 from reading forums.

Doug
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Old 02-03-2013, 10:16 AM   #18
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It's my understanding that MOST dropped hitches are from user error. The 2 biggest reasons that I've read about are:

A) High-hitching where the pin ends up being too high. The latch closes, but the pin isn't really grabbed. I think this is more prevalent on some hitch types than others (e.g. draw bars).

Doug

On the draw bar type hitch, it will not close unless the pin is in the proper spot.
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Old 02-03-2013, 10:20 AM   #19
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On the draw bar type hitch, it will not close unless the pin is in the proper spot.
Then my assumption appears flawed. :-) I understand the concept behind high-hitching, but it seems that everyone considers their hitch "high-hitch proof". I know I can't imagine how it's possible with my B&W and it's jaws.
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Old 02-03-2013, 10:23 AM   #20
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B47, Not sure of the exact model, it's a Husky 16k easy glide (rolls back about 11"). I went to Butch's site and found one under 'other hitches' that looked the same except for the roll feature. When the latch came, it fit perfectly and installed in minutes. It's another step to add to the hook-up procedure, but likely worth it. With a new trailer and all, I'm tempted to put together a check list.

Nev
Thanks - I have a Husky 16 ks and his site doesn't really show a picture of the kit installed on that model. It does say the kit can be installed on the Husky. Guess i will call him.

Does the kit come with the required drill bit?
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