7700 lb tow cap, but WD not recommended

[Borwick]

I am aware of the mirror thing. However, this model Surveyor is only 7' wide. I can actually see the side plane of the trailer at the tip of the mirrors. The Rover is 85" at the mirror tips.

The most important issue is being able to back it up straight. Without seeing the sides, this is an impossible task.

The curb wt of the Rover is about 5500. The rear axle max weight is over 3700 lbs and is 2600 lbs unloaded, and my tongue weight loaded is no more than 500 lbs. I've got some wiggle there. I don't load anything in the TV but bikes on top, and some fluffy stuff in back.

When I tow, I leave the fresh water tank empty, and this is about 400 on the tongue in that condition. This is really a light unit. Even with clothes, beer, food, beer, chairs, beer, and other necessities, it barely gets to 4500 lbs. (We have a local landfill with a scale).

Cheers!

[crocus]

" I can actually see the side plane of the trailer at the tip of the mirrors."
==============================================
Unfortunately, that is not acceptable nor safe. Get some towing mirrors for the safety of everyone on the road.

[shineysideup]

Originally Posted by crocus

" I can actually see the side plane of the trailer at the tip of the mirrors."
==============================================
Unfortunately, that is not acceptable nor safe. Get some towing mirrors for the safety of everyone on the road.

I have also added convex mirrors to my vehicles' mirrors (far outside edges). Even with my mckesh mirrors, I have "caught" cars in a blind spot between the two mirrors. Thanks to the convex mirrors, I was glad I could see them before I made my lane change (I'm sure they were, they just didn't know it! ). Get the mirror's, you'll wonder how you towed without them!

I also load 98% of my stuff in the trailer... I've taken my rig to the scales and have a really good idea of room in regards to weight I have before exceeding my rear axle ratings (and tires also). I have a 1/2 door on my trailer and a folding bunk bed so even the bikes can go inside.

happy camping,

[SKL N BNS]

I know I am a little late on this post but My experience is very pertinent to this discussion.
I own 2 L322 Range Rovers 2008 and 2003 and have towed with both.
Currently I tow a Forest River Cherokee Wolf Pack toy hauler GVW 7400 lbs
Have done about 7,000 miles on this setup across the U.S. On mountain grades never slowed below 50 mph. Brake control hookup requires knowledge of electronic systems and somewhat difficult secondary to the light control module in the vehicle, but I can walk anyone through the process in 10 minutes or less. In 2 weeks I am off on this years trip another 6,000 miles I am installing one sway control bar to eliminate my minimal sway at 70+ mph. I am considering purchasing the supercharged HSE though as the increased HP and especially torque will dramatically increase performance. Considering the smaller wheelbase of the sport, I would advise anyone towing a trailer of this size to be safe and install sway control on both sides of the trailer. But not with a Weight Distributing hitch.
If anyone needs any help with L322 towing, electrics you can contact me.

Car crazy and maintain and repair all
2003 Range Rover HSE
2008 Range Rover HSE
2012 Boss 302 Mustang
2001 Jaguar XK8
2002 Ferrari 360
1968 Austin Mini MK2 Automatic
1939 Dodge D 11 Coupe

Can help with all

I am registers with Fix Ya.com as a category expert on Land Rover
As Herbee63
1939 Dodge D11 Coupe

[Borwick]

We've already been out with this setup for Memorial weekend. Did a 600 mile round trip, through Northern Nevada and Northern California. We went from Lake Tahoe to Lassen/Burney Falls via 395 to 299, then 89-44-70-89 back.

I used 1 sway bar, and loaded the WD springs to just take the weight off the rear of the receiver. I did not crank it up to where the rear of the reciever was contacting the upper portion. This seemed to take the jounce out of the ride that is noticable without any spring.

During that weekend, there were truck/camper wind warnings on 395, and in spite of this, it handled perfectly.

The Jag engine (370hp) never suffered, and the MPG was 2 better than our Escalade.

[thebrakeman]

If the manual clearly says not to use a WDH, then don't use it. You could damage something (likely that suspension).

But those airbags are not transfering any weight up to the front, like a WDH would do for you.

I understand the benefit while offroading. If 1 of the tires is out of plane from the other 3 it will adjust the height of that wheel to give equal traction at all corners. Very cool!

But the effects of TW do not put any of the tires out of plane with the others. All 4 wheels are still in plane. When the TW compresses the rear (and lifts the front) weight is added to the rear and removed from the front. The airbags will sense the change in suspension travel, and adjust the pressure to level the vehicle. But that does not transfer any weight, unless you consider the weight of the air being added/removed.

You are right in being concerned about this, as your front wheels will not be loaded properly while towing. In wet & windy conditions, you might notice your stability control kicking in more often. But since this is not a system you can turn off (it's the primary suspension system), you don't have much of a choice.