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Old 05-24-2014, 09:01 AM   #41
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I hope to trade up later this year to a 5.7 Liter Tundra, don't know if the 4WD is something I need. I live in SE Texas, so usually no snowdrifts here. As I told my late wife, I'll move you anywhere you want to live as long as it is south of I10. As for the dogs, good natured as long as food is not involved. I'm not familiar with the tow button, what does it do?

Keith
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Old 05-24-2014, 09:02 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by Herk7769 View Post



I have, and LOVE, my Pullrite Superglide. It is an automatic slider that moved the king pin forward and backwards as needed to keep you clear of the cab. It has the best locking mechanism (in my opinion) since the locking area completely encloses the king pin. In an accident you will not be able to get out and move the hitch out of the way. With the Superglide the camper is moved automatically.

X2. It is a great hitch, tho a bit heavy. Rock solid.
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Old 05-24-2014, 09:16 AM   #43
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Keith, the "tow/haul " button, as it was explained to me, affects the transmission. It holds the transmission in a gear longer and doesn't allow it to go through the gears as quickly moving up or down. I don't know why Toyota thinks that is important...but they do.
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Old 05-24-2014, 09:17 AM   #44
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Thanks, Maron.. I'll look into it later this year..

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Old 05-24-2014, 09:24 AM   #45
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Originally Posted by 3rdjourney View Post
Our pickup has the short bed and we are finally deciding on the Forest River V-Cross 305VRET which I am hoping will take care of that turning radius...how about the problem with hitting the rails that I have heard people talk about?

Rails? not sure what this refers to? If your 5er has the recommended clearance of5 in or so, which is the same for all 5ers then you will not have a problem with the V-Cross any more than any other. If you hit a big dip, like a ditch by turning too tight out out of a driveway, then you can scrape the rails. Don't ask how I know that.

An additional caution for those with 1/2 and 3/4 ton trucks is that the most frequently overloaded spec on these vehicles is the GVWR of the truck, NOT the GCWR or the max trailer weight rating. AND the only way to know this is by knowing or weighing the rig all loaded up. I have noted that the actual pin weight on many campers, especially 5er's, is much higher than the spec and when you have loaded that big storage area in front with all your goodies. I have had to consciously load the back of the camper with as much heavy stuff as I can, and put NOTHING in the back of the truck to even come close to the GVWR. Just saying.
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Old 06-25-2014, 04:47 PM   #46
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towing

I have a 2014 salem villa estate....here are the spec's cargo carrying 2896 and don't have near that on board. Hitch weight 1615 and ship weight of 10.660 the rv was delivered to us by the place we bought it from. We want to get our own truck now to move it. And the rv is 40 feet long. Model 393rlt any great suggestions on what kind of truck we would have to get to pull this long thing? Thank you
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Old 06-25-2014, 04:54 PM   #47
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I have a 2014 salem villa estate....here are the spec's cargo carrying 2896 and don't have near that on board. Hitch weight 1615 and ship weight of 10.660 the rv was delivered to us by the place we bought it from. We want to get our own truck now to move it. And the rv is 40 feet long. Model 393rlt any great suggestions on what kind of truck we would have to get to pull this long thing? Thank you
I suggest you get a 1 ton of your flavor, diesel, cab of your choice and the best weight distribution and anti sway hitch you can buy.
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Old 06-26-2014, 07:28 AM   #48
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Originally Posted by cbauch View Post
I have a 2014 salem villa estate....here are the spec's cargo carrying 2896 and don't have near that on board. Hitch weight 1615 and ship weight of 10.660 the rv was delivered to us by the place we bought it from. We want to get our own truck now to move it. And the rv is 40 feet long. Model 393rlt any great suggestions on what kind of truck we would have to get to pull this long thing? Thank you
If this is just a move and not a trip, you could save a bunch of money and get a towing company to move the camper.
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Old 06-27-2014, 06:01 AM   #49
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That's a "park model". Aren't those not designed to be moved a lot? I'm not sure of the difference.
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Old 01-21-2016, 07:18 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by JK Evans View Post
I hope to trade up later this year to a 5.7 Liter Tundra, don't know if the 4WD is something I need. I live in SE Texas, so usually no snowdrifts here. As I told my late wife, I'll move you anywhere you want to live as long as it is south of I10. As for the dogs, good natured as long as food is not involved. I'm not familiar with the tow button, what does it do?

Keith

I have had 3 Tundras (4.7L, 4.6L, 5.7L) all were 4WD and I enjoyed each one of them. They are great trucks and you won't regret purchasing one. I used the 4-wheel sparingly for assistance to pull my boat out of the water, maneuvering my 5er in an unleveled driveway after a rain storm and it was really really muddy. There were other less notable occasions however once I switched to a 4WD I don't have any intentions of going back to 2WD drive. The opportunity to get out of a stuck situation is much greater. Something to think about is drive in2WD until you get stuck and then switch to 4WD to get out. I can attest that if you drive and get stuck in 4WD you're really stuck. As far as the tow button is concerned googling tundra will provide you answers from the manufacturer. It's pretty straight forward. There are definitely mechanical benefits to determine when to or when you don't have to put the truck in tow but one thing I recall in the manual is that any pulled weight above 75% of max tow weight you must use tow enabled. The owners manual explains this feature real good.


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Old 01-21-2016, 07:53 PM   #51
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So I know my truck will pull it but I am going to be new to fifth wheels and what kind of hitch will I need? 2002 GMC Sierra 2500 hd diesel crew cab
There are quite a few hitch options to select from as you probably already know. Each owner has a personal reason for their purchase however pocketbook will sometimes limit higher quality hitches. I suggest looking for a hitch thread on this forum and see what they say. My signature shows an Ultimate 5th Wheel Hitch and I like it a lot. It's very quiet, easy to get in/out of the truck and at 24K load with 4500 lb. hitch weight it fits my needs perfectly.

Slider hitches or swinging trailer king pin tongues are highly recommended for standard (6.5' or less) beds. You will see that sliders are not needed for trucks with an 8' bed.

Please check my post Duramax weights appear wrong. It's important you know your weighs before shopping for any TT. If your truck cannot carry the weight why look at trailer floor plans with weight over that limit?

SOAPBOX: Never overload any TV weight limits. Certified labels are in every vehicle with max weights specific for each vehicle. They are unique and there for a reason.
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Old 01-21-2016, 08:52 PM   #52
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First I will admit I did not read every post here...but I did read most.
So ...I am sorry if what I say has already been posted.

Getting a suitable truck to 'pull' your RV is of great concern.
However, IMO, having the ability to provide the required 'stopping power'
is of a greater importance.

Just like the ads you see when Truck Manufactures show off their trucks pulling a 'massively loaded flatbed'...but can it 'stop it' ?

Just my 2 cents

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Old 01-21-2016, 08:58 PM   #53
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First I will admit I did not read every post here...but I did read most. So ...I am sorry if what I say has already been posted. Getting a suitable truck to 'pull' your RV is of great concern.
However, IMO, having the ability to provide the required 'stopping power'
is of a greater importance. Just like the ads you see when Truck Manufactures show off their trucks pulling a 'massively loaded flatbed'...but can it 'stop it'?Just my 2 cents. Islander
That's why they put brakes on the trailer. The trailer also has to be able to stop itself, hence, the "break away switch".
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Old 01-21-2016, 09:39 PM   #54
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4 wheel drive in the south? Absolutely! On our drive down from Chicago to Phoenix we had to stop at MD Anderson in Houston. We came down through Vicksburg to tour Civil War battle fields and then down into Louisana and across I 10.
One early evening we pulled into the "Cajun RV" Park in Louisanna and should have turned around but were to tired.
In most areas there was 3" of mud. We had problems finding a dry spot for the dogs to pee.
Towing a 7300 lb trailer with everything in it we could stuff, I doubt we could have gotten out of there the next morning with a 2 wheel drive. The 4x4 didn't spin a tire.
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Old 01-22-2016, 11:45 AM   #55
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That's why they put brakes on the trailer. The trailer also has to be able to stop itself, hence, the "break away switch".
Gee....OldCoot..... you smart feller.

My point was "if" you have too light of a truck that will pull more than it was designed for...doesn't make it right.
Having a tow vehicle that is comfortable and stable pulling an rv down the road... having a substantial safety margin (in the weight margins) ...where you don't have to grip the steering wheel with all your might when a semi passes....
"and"...have the ability to stop the trailer should the trailer brakes not be totally operating at 100%...or should they stop working for some reason...
that is what I should have also put in my post. (sorry)

red.jimbo.... Good Post...yes, it should be stuck.

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Old 01-22-2016, 12:03 PM   #56
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Thanks for sticking this post. It will be nice to refer to a post that is already discussing this topic.
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Old 01-22-2016, 12:08 PM   #57
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I actually did have the brakes go out on my 5er on a trip a few years ago. The brake controller died. I pulled that 5er all the way from the Oregon coast back to Montana with just the truck brakes. Ordered and installed a new controller when I got home. No big deal but it is an 8500 pound 5er and an F250. I was technically over the payload lawyer sticker. Glad my truck had enough brakes to do the job for both.


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Old 01-22-2016, 01:06 PM   #58
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I actually did have the brakes go out on my 5er on a trip a few years ago. The brake controller died. I pulled that 5er all the way from the Oregon coast back to Montana with just the truck brakes. Ordered and installed a new controller when I got home. No big deal but it is an 8500 pound 5er and an F250. I was technically over the payload lawyer sticker. Glad my truck had enough brakes to do the job for both.


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There ya go...
That's what I'm talking about.

Thanks 'Mtelkman'

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Old 01-24-2016, 12:08 PM   #59
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Had a China bomb take the brake wires out on a trip right at the beginning of the trip, 40 miles from home. Put on spare, did not see missing wires, (in a hurry to change tire, passenger side, lots of trucks screaming by) felt lack of trailer brakes going down pass, no problem with the F250, lots of braking. Would not have wanted that to happen in our previous TV and Expedition. Rewired at that nights stop and on with the trip (with a new China bomb that I got 2 years out of).
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Old 01-30-2016, 05:32 PM   #60
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Hi everyone,we bought a 2015 flagstaff superlite 27rlws travel trailer in July. I pull it with my Ford 2014 f150 4 wheel drive super crewcab with 3.5 ecoboost with factory tow package and weight distribution hitch. I have had several people say I do not have enough truck for the trailer but it does fine here in Kansas and Missouri. The dryweight on the tt is 6443 lb and when I did the math seemed like I was fine. Did I screw up somehow? All comments welcome hehe.
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