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Old 05-24-2014, 09:01 AM   #41
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I hope to trade up later this year to a 5.7 Liter Tundra, don't know if the 4WD is something I need. I live in SE Texas, so usually no snowdrifts here. As I told my late wife, I'll move you anywhere you want to live as long as it is south of I10. As for the dogs, good natured as long as food is not involved. I'm not familiar with the tow button, what does it do?

Keith
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Old 05-24-2014, 09:02 AM   #42
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I have, and LOVE, my Pullrite Superglide. It is an automatic slider that moved the king pin forward and backwards as needed to keep you clear of the cab. It has the best locking mechanism (in my opinion) since the locking area completely encloses the king pin. In an accident you will not be able to get out and move the hitch out of the way. With the Superglide the camper is moved automatically.

X2. It is a great hitch, tho a bit heavy. Rock solid.
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Old 05-24-2014, 09:16 AM   #43
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Keith, the "tow/haul " button, as it was explained to me, affects the transmission. It holds the transmission in a gear longer and doesn't allow it to go through the gears as quickly moving up or down. I don't know why Toyota thinks that is important...but they do.
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Old 05-24-2014, 09:17 AM   #44
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Thanks, Maron.. I'll look into it later this year..

Keith
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Old 05-24-2014, 09:24 AM   #45
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Our pickup has the short bed and we are finally deciding on the Forest River V-Cross 305VRET which I am hoping will take care of that turning radius...how about the problem with hitting the rails that I have heard people talk about?

Rails? not sure what this refers to? If your 5er has the recommended clearance of5 in or so, which is the same for all 5ers then you will not have a problem with the V-Cross any more than any other. If you hit a big dip, like a ditch by turning too tight out out of a driveway, then you can scrape the rails. Don't ask how I know that.

An additional caution for those with 1/2 and 3/4 ton trucks is that the most frequently overloaded spec on these vehicles is the GVWR of the truck, NOT the GCWR or the max trailer weight rating. AND the only way to know this is by knowing or weighing the rig all loaded up. I have noted that the actual pin weight on many campers, especially 5er's, is much higher than the spec and when you have loaded that big storage area in front with all your goodies. I have had to consciously load the back of the camper with as much heavy stuff as I can, and put NOTHING in the back of the truck to even come close to the GVWR. Just saying.
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Old 06-25-2014, 04:47 PM   #46
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towing

I have a 2014 salem villa estate....here are the spec's cargo carrying 2896 and don't have near that on board. Hitch weight 1615 and ship weight of 10.660 the rv was delivered to us by the place we bought it from. We want to get our own truck now to move it. And the rv is 40 feet long. Model 393rlt any great suggestions on what kind of truck we would have to get to pull this long thing? Thank you
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Old 06-25-2014, 04:54 PM   #47
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I have a 2014 salem villa estate....here are the spec's cargo carrying 2896 and don't have near that on board. Hitch weight 1615 and ship weight of 10.660 the rv was delivered to us by the place we bought it from. We want to get our own truck now to move it. And the rv is 40 feet long. Model 393rlt any great suggestions on what kind of truck we would have to get to pull this long thing? Thank you
I suggest you get a 1 ton of your flavor, diesel, cab of your choice and the best weight distribution and anti sway hitch you can buy.
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Old 06-26-2014, 07:28 AM   #48
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Originally Posted by cbauch View Post
I have a 2014 salem villa estate....here are the spec's cargo carrying 2896 and don't have near that on board. Hitch weight 1615 and ship weight of 10.660 the rv was delivered to us by the place we bought it from. We want to get our own truck now to move it. And the rv is 40 feet long. Model 393rlt any great suggestions on what kind of truck we would have to get to pull this long thing? Thank you
If this is just a move and not a trip, you could save a bunch of money and get a towing company to move the camper.
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Old 06-27-2014, 06:01 AM   #49
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That's a "park model". Aren't those not designed to be moved a lot? I'm not sure of the difference.
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Old 01-21-2016, 06:18 PM   #50
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A Fool-Proof Method for Judging your Tow Vehicle

Quote:
Originally Posted by JK Evans View Post
I hope to trade up later this year to a 5.7 Liter Tundra, don't know if the 4WD is something I need. I live in SE Texas, so usually no snowdrifts here. As I told my late wife, I'll move you anywhere you want to live as long as it is south of I10. As for the dogs, good natured as long as food is not involved. I'm not familiar with the tow button, what does it do?

Keith

I have had 3 Tundras (4.7L, 4.6L, 5.7L) all were 4WD and I enjoyed each one of them. They are great trucks and you won't regret purchasing one. I used the 4-wheel sparingly for assistance to pull my boat out of the water, maneuvering my 5er in an unleveled driveway after a rain storm and it was really really muddy. There were other less notable occasions however once I switched to a 4WD I don't have any intentions of going back to 2WD drive. The opportunity to get out of a stuck situation is much greater. Something to think about is drive in2WD until you get stuck and then switch to 4WD to get out. I can attest that if you drive and get stuck in 4WD you're really stuck. As far as the tow button is concerned googling tundra will provide you answers from the manufacturer. It's pretty straight forward. There are definitely mechanical benefits to determine when to or when you don't have to put the truck in tow but one thing I recall in the manual is that any pulled weight above 75% of max tow weight you must use tow enabled. The owners manual explains this feature real good.


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