Why in the world would they make allowance on the right, but not the left!? They hardly need any more steel!
1. Dual-Cam add-on will only work if the Reese bars are the type with the little curl on the ends. I don't think the Pro Series has those, so it would also mean a bar upgrade...and that might require a head upgrade....equals get an Equal-I-zer.
2. Why are people comparing a $50 sway controller to a $1500 ProPride. Kind of the extremes, aren't they? If considering dual friction bars to be acceptable, then the proper comparison for integrated sway would be the cheapest option, which is a proper Dual-Cam system, or the Equal-I-zer, at about $500.
3. If you are considering the welded tab option, for a 2nd friction sway controller, that's going to be tricky.
a. The left side of that head is curved, and appears to be the entrance for the springbar socket. So you'd need to cut the steel stock to match that curve. Trying to fill with enough material to bridge a large gap may not hold well.
b. Is your friend good enough at welding to not heat the base metal too much? That area of the head is what receives a lot of load from the bar. You don't want to weaken it.
c. Be sure to look up the proper location of the ball. Recommend welding the steel in place first, then drilling the hole once properly located.
I would highly recommend selling this hitch for $250 (?) and putting it toward an Equal-I-zer for another $250-300.
thebrakeman ('70), DW ('71), DD ('99), DD ('01), DD ('05)
2004 Surveyor SV261T (UltraLite Bunkhouse Hybrid)
2006 Mercury Mountaineer V8 AWD Premier
Equal-i-zer WDH (10k), Prodigy Brake Controller