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Old 05-05-2015, 08:30 PM   #31
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Ok, I have decided to go the adapter rout for adding my 2nd sway bar. About $40 from various stores. Here is my head assembly and the second picture is of the adapted which goes under the ball. The problem is, the adapter looks like it is designed for flat head assemblies and not raised like mine (the ball sits on an elevated mount as opposed to a flat assembly). The adapter states will fit with the ball mount not exceeding 2 5/8 inches wide. Looks like another road block!
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Old 05-06-2015, 11:04 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by gashog View Post
Interesting topic on WDH, I have the cheaper Huskey WHD which I had to upgrade the shank do to the height of my Ram and I wanted one to fit my Class V receiver. I don't want to scrap this 100.00 shank. Can a person buy the Equalizer 4 point sway WHD without the shank?
Yes. You can purchase the Equal-I-zer w/o shank. Visit RVWholesalers. However, you might find that such a kit is more expensive than a kit with the shank, do to pricing specials they often have going.
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Old 05-06-2015, 11:13 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by Bilcin View Post
Ok, I have decided to go the adapter rout for adding my 2nd sway bar. About $40 from various stores. Here is my head assembly and the second picture is of the adapted which goes under the ball. The problem is, the adapter looks like it is designed for flat head assemblies and not raised like mine (the ball sits on an elevated mount as opposed to a flat assembly). The adapter states will fit with the ball mount not exceeding 2 5/8 inches wide. Looks like another road block!
That adaptor is useless to you, because of that lifted ball surface. The cutout on the adapter needs to engage the 2" upright, to prevent it from rotating. If you have the sway controller tightened properly, it will spin under the ball. The adaptor is designed for use with a standard weight-carrying drawbar, not a WD head.

Welding a tab is the only way you can make this setup work, but as I said, that will be a difficult job, and won't look pretty.

I did the welded tab option for our popup (12 years ago), before I decided I needed a WDH. The job was easy, because it was simply welding 2 flat surfaces, just using a standard drop drawbar. This was a lot cheaper and better than the adaptor option.
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Old 05-06-2015, 07:32 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by thebrakeman View Post
That adaptor is useless to you, because of that lifted ball surface. The cutout on the adapter needs to engage the 2" upright, to prevent it from rotating. If you have the sway controller tightened properly, it will spin under the ball. The adaptor is designed for use with a standard weight-carrying drawbar, not a WD head.

Welding a tab is the only way you can make this setup work, but as I said, that will be a difficult job, and won't look pretty.

I did the welded tab option for our popup (12 years ago), before I decided I needed a WDH. The job was easy, because it was simply welding 2 flat surfaces, just using a standard drop drawbar. This was a lot cheaper and better than the adaptor option.
Thanks, kind of figures that would be a problem, so my friend gets to try and weld this for me and if it doesn't work looks like a new hitch head. Thanks for every ones input!
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Old 05-06-2015, 08:13 PM   #35
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Can`t you trace the bracket you have now and have one cut from plate steel ? Don`t you have to loosen them sway bars up when you want to back up ? Sounds like a pain
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Old 05-06-2015, 08:19 PM   #36
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Can`t you trace the bracket you have now and have one cut from plate steel ? Don`t you have to loosen them sway bars up when you want to back up ? Sounds like a pain
That's how it is normally done is to trim the plate to match the hitch and weld. As for loosening to back up, I used 2 for 30+ yrs and never loosened them to back up.
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Old 05-06-2015, 10:17 PM   #37
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Can`t you trace the bracket you have now and have one cut from plate steel ? Don`t you have to loosen them sway bars up when you want to back up ? Sounds like a pain
I have used the sway bars for 4 years and I also have never loosened it. Don't remember reading that in the instructions.
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Old 05-06-2015, 11:09 PM   #38
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I forgot once to loosen the sway bars before I backed up. I ended up bending the bracket on the hitch on one side. I suspect if it was a straight back up it would have been fine.


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Old 05-07-2015, 02:54 PM   #39
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Can`t you trace the bracket you have now and have one cut from plate steel ? Don`t you have to loosen them sway bars up when you want to back up ? Sounds like a pain
That's a common misconception, but no, loosening/removing to back up is not required. The only damage that will take place from backing with these still engaged, is if you jackknife far enough that the inside piece bottoms out inside. Push that all the way inside, and it becomes a solid bar. Try turning any more, and something is going to bend.

I towed our popup for 7 seasons with the same friction sway controller. 1 year with no WDH, and 6 with the Reese 400 Single Bar WDH. Never did I remove the sway controller to back into a site, driveway, etc. I simply knew what the look for in each sideview mirror (a particular reflector position), which told me I'm near the limit, and I went no further. And I had my controller set very tight. Handle threads bottomed out on the housing, and adjuster bolt properly set for good control.
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Old 05-07-2015, 02:57 PM   #40
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I have used the sway bars for 4 years and I also have never loosened it. Don't remember reading that in the instructions.
The instructions for my old Reese controller said to use caution not to jackknife too sharply, OR remove the unit. Most people read this, and interpret that you MUST remove it. Not so.
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