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05-07-2015, 01:58 PM
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#41
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Canton, Michigan
Posts: 1,348
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scubanut
I forgot once to loosen the sway bars before I backed up. I ended up bending the bracket on the hitch on one side. I suspect if it was a straight back up it would have been fine.
2012 F150 FX4 Crewcab 5.0 2012 Coachman Freedom Express 292BHDS (outdoor Kitchen)
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Yeah, sounds like you bottomed out the sway controller, if it bent the bracket.
__________________
thebrakeman ('70), DW ('71), DD ('99), DD ('01), DD ('05)
2004 Surveyor SV261T (UltraLite Bunkhouse Hybrid)
2006 Mercury Mountaineer V8 AWD Premier
Equal-i-zer WDH (10k), Prodigy Brake Controller
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05-08-2015, 08:23 PM
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#42
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Philadelphia PA
Posts: 460
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UPDATE. Ok, I have looked and looked for a solution to my Dual sway bar dilemma. Yes, I could have a piece of plate metal welded to my hitch head. Or I could buy a Dual cam for $180 or I could buy this:
I was told it is completely compatible with my hitch head ( Reese 66021). I will keep you posted. Thanks for all who replied!
__________________
Bill & Cindy McKenna
Philadelphia PA
2015 Palomino Puma 32DBKS
2005 Ford Excursion 6 liter Turbo Diesel
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05-08-2015, 08:32 PM
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#43
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilcin
UPDATE. Ok, I have looked and looked for a solution to my Dual sway bar dilemma. Yes, I could have a piece of plate metal welded to my hitch head. Or I could buy a Dual cam for $180 or I could buy this:
I was told it is completely compatible with my hitch head ( Reese 66021). I will keep you posted. Thanks for all who replied!
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If you already have the single and the bracket for a flat head, just position the bracket on the head you have and mark the bracket and have it trimmed to fit and welded on. The heads are cast steel and can be welded very easily.
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05-08-2015, 08:59 PM
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#44
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 230
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Trailer sway
Just to mention something commonly over looked when diagnosing sway.
Be sure and inflate your radial tires on your tow vehicle up to or very close to maximum pressure as shown on your tire. It helps to have load range "E" tires also. Just push sideways on your tow vehicle at the rear and notice how much deflection you have from the tires. That is the side to side movement you can expect when towing.
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05-08-2015, 10:42 PM
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#45
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Philadelphia PA
Posts: 460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldCoot
If you already have the single and the bracket for a flat head, just position the bracket on the head you have and mark the bracket and have it trimmed to fit and welded on. The heads are cast steel and can be welded very easily.
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Yes, I was considering this option earlier, but, for $69.00 I hope to be able to put this problem to sleep.
__________________
Bill & Cindy McKenna
Philadelphia PA
2015 Palomino Puma 32DBKS
2005 Ford Excursion 6 liter Turbo Diesel
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05-08-2015, 10:43 PM
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#46
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Philadelphia PA
Posts: 460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hillsdaletc
Just to mention something commonly over looked when diagnosing sway.
Be sure and inflate your radial tires on your tow vehicle up to or very close to maximum pressure as shown on your tire. It helps to have load range "E" tires also. Just push sideways on your tow vehicle at the rear and notice how much deflection you have from the tires. That is the side to side movement you can expect when towing.
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I never even thought about this. Thanks for the tip!
__________________
Bill & Cindy McKenna
Philadelphia PA
2015 Palomino Puma 32DBKS
2005 Ford Excursion 6 liter Turbo Diesel
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05-11-2015, 01:25 PM
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#47
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Canton, Michigan
Posts: 1,348
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Only $69 for that replacement head? Wow. And who knows, you might get $25 for the old head.
__________________
thebrakeman ('70), DW ('71), DD ('99), DD ('01), DD ('05)
2004 Surveyor SV261T (UltraLite Bunkhouse Hybrid)
2006 Mercury Mountaineer V8 AWD Premier
Equal-i-zer WDH (10k), Prodigy Brake Controller
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05-12-2015, 06:53 AM
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#48
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Philadelphia PA
Posts: 460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thebrakeman
Only $69 for that replacement head? Wow. And who knows, you might get $25 for the old head.
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Wow, will try that! That's enough for a cold case of beer when done with the job!
__________________
Bill & Cindy McKenna
Philadelphia PA
2015 Palomino Puma 32DBKS
2005 Ford Excursion 6 liter Turbo Diesel
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05-14-2015, 10:55 AM
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#49
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Canada
Posts: 516
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thebrakeman
Yeah, sounds like you bottomed out the sway controller, if it bent the bracket.
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Actually I think I didn't explain that correctly. It wasn't the actual slide bar that bent. It was the small ball and plate that bent on the head of the hitch.
2012 F150 FX4 Crewcab 5.0 2012 Coachman Freedom Express 292BHDS (outdoor Kitchen)
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05-14-2015, 11:08 AM
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#50
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: TX
Posts: 213
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilcin
UPDATE. Ok, I have looked and looked for a solution to my Dual sway bar dilemma. Yes, I could have a piece of plate metal welded to my hitch head. Or I could buy a Dual cam for $180 or I could buy this:
I was told it is completely compatible with my hitch head ( Reese 66021). I will keep you posted. Thanks for all who replied!
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Best move yet! Now all your headaches will go away!
__________________
2020 East to West Della terra 31k3s
2012 Ford F350 King Ranch FX4
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05-14-2015, 12:48 PM
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#51
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Philadelphia PA
Posts: 460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DFW Rusty
Best move yet! Now all your headaches will go away!
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I hope so!!
__________________
Bill & Cindy McKenna
Philadelphia PA
2015 Palomino Puma 32DBKS
2005 Ford Excursion 6 liter Turbo Diesel
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05-14-2015, 02:48 PM
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#52
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Canton, Michigan
Posts: 1,348
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scubanut
Actually I think I didn't explain that correctly. It wasn't the actual slide bar that bent. It was the small ball and plate that bent on the head of the hitch.
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That's what I assumed you meant. I've seen that many times. You must have jackknifed the rig sufficiently to bottom out the bar-portion within the clamping portion. Once that happens, the unit is like a solid bar of steel. Continue the jackknife, and all of the force goes right into that plate, bending it.
__________________
thebrakeman ('70), DW ('71), DD ('99), DD ('01), DD ('05)
2004 Surveyor SV261T (UltraLite Bunkhouse Hybrid)
2006 Mercury Mountaineer V8 AWD Premier
Equal-i-zer WDH (10k), Prodigy Brake Controller
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