Soooooo, I have a 2015 Puma 32DBKS which is 36Ft long and when I picked up the trailer and using 1 sway bar I noticed more sway than I anticipated, dealer told me I should add a second friction sway bar to my hitch with a trailer that long. I bought a Pro Series friction sway bar. I installed the ball mount on my trailer without a problem. Last thing to do was mount the ball to my head assembly. When I attempted to do this
I noticed my head assembly has only 1 tab for 1 sway bar. I looked for adapters for this but I didn't see any and a new head assembly is about $180. Here is my head assembly. Any Ideas or am I about to spend $180
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Bill & Cindy McKenna
Philadelphia PA
2015 Palomino Puma 32DBKS
2005 Ford Excursion 6 liter Turbo Diesel
You can buy the tab with a sway bar ball on it or just get a pc of 1/2 x 2 x 6 and drill the hole for the ball the same distance as the factory one and have it welded on the hitch head. Make sure you position the ball the same distance out and forward as the factory sway ball. Some sway bars come with all the hardware and you just have to trim the hitch side of the bar to match the hitch and weld.
You can buy the tab with a sway bar ball on it or just get a pc of 1/2 x 2 x 6 and drill the hole for the ball the same distance as the factory one and have it welded on the hitch head.
Thanks, and when you say a piece of 1/2 x 2 x 6 you are referring to steel correct? My friend is a welder so this sounds like a plan. Thanks again!
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Bill & Cindy McKenna
Philadelphia PA
2015 Palomino Puma 32DBKS
2005 Ford Excursion 6 liter Turbo Diesel
Honestly with a trailer that length you are better off getting a wdh that has integrated sway control (ie equal-i-zer or Reese dual cam). That said you also need to look at the underlying cause of the sway. Too light on the hitch and too heavy in the rear of the tt can cause that to happen.
Honestly with a trailer that length you are better off getting a wdh that has integrated sway control (ie equal-i-zer or Reese dual cam). That said you also need to look at the underlying cause of the sway. Too light on the hitch and too heavy in the rear of the tt can cause that to happen.
x2!
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Dan-Retired California Firefighter/EMT
Shawn-Musician/Entrepreneur/Wine Expert
and Zoe the Wonder Dog(R.I.P.)
2016 PrimeTime TracerAIR 255, pushing a 2014 Ford F150 SCREW XTR 4x4 3.5 Ecoboost w/Max Tow Package
4pt Equal-i-zer WDH and 1828lbs of payload capacity
Honestly with a trailer that length you are better off getting a wdh that has integrated sway control (ie equal-i-zer or Reese dual cam). That said you also need to look at the underling cause of the sway. Too light on the hitch and too heavy in the rear of the tt can cause that to happen.
I went from a Wildwood26TBSS that was 28 feet long to my current TT that is 36 feet long. On the way home from dealer with it and only using 1 sway bar there was sway from the wind (very windy day) and when trucks passed me. Was little sway with the Wildwood and I guess was expecting the same with the Puma. My weights are good, 11% hitch weight but I guess the added length adds a little instability. I did look at the Reese Dual cam and I am using the WDH with the trunnion bars now, so that is an option. Was just trying to save some money, however, I would rather feel comfortable while towing than having a few extra $$$$ in my pocket.
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Bill & Cindy McKenna
Philadelphia PA
2015 Palomino Puma 32DBKS
2005 Ford Excursion 6 liter Turbo Diesel
Yes, WDH is rated to 12,000lb just had to upgrade my spring bars from 800lb to 1,200lb bars and
I am not sure what hitch you currently own, but if it were me towing that size trailer . . . I would want to tow it with the best hitch/sway control I could afford. I would personally buy a The Equal-I-er hitch and sell the old one to recoup some of that investment.
+1 on the hitch upgrade. Equalizer 4 point- RVWholesalers has them and is very competitive on pricing. ProPride or Hensley would be best, but they don't give them away.
I'm with OldCoot. Get a reputable welder to weld it on for you. When I bought my second sway bar it came with the tab, luckily my hitch already had the hole for the ball, so it wasn't needed.
I am sure that one of the expensive hitch setups will work better, but I have the WDH chains and 2 sway bars and my 6700 lb, 33' camper pulls straight as an arrow.
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2020 East to West Della terra 31k3s
2012 Ford F350 King Ranch FX4
I'm with OldCoot. Get a reputable welder to weld it on for you. When I bought my second sway bar it came with the tab, luckily my hitch already had the hole for the ball, so it wasn't needed.
I am sure that one of the expensive hitch setups will work better, but I have the WDH chains and 2 sway bars and my 6700 lb, 33' camper pulls straight as an arrow.
The OP is probably close to 3K heavier and 3' longer.
Not everyone can spend upwards of $2000+ for hitches when a $100 fix will work.
You can find HA's and PP's used for $900-$1500 if you look. The OP will probably have $500 in their entire setup before it's over. That's at LEAST 1/3 the cost for 1/50 the hitch, IMHO. Considering a new 5er would run probably 30K+, I think that's a little stretch of a comparison. Also, one thing that no one ever seems to consider is this- the more friction you use to control sway, the more you have to overcome in order to turn. People need to consider that the force used to control the sway will still be there acting against them if they need to make emergency maneuvers or if they encounter slick roads. I believe the friction bars actually state NOT to use them in wet/icy conditions.
The picture you posted looks like a Reese hitch. Can you just add the cams to your current hitch?
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Retired Fire Dept Battalion Chief
2016 Ever-Lite 232RBS
2012 F150 FX4 W/Max tow & Ecoboost (Best tv ever)
2018 F250 Lariat (ok but I miss my F150)
Getting old ain't for wimps!!!
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