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Old 08-13-2013, 08:35 AM   #11
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It sounds like you have done your homework on it so far and have experience towing, so no need to tell you your business.
Your original idea goes in the right direction for what you want, but you are doing something that would take some work to undo ( I realize your situation and that you are capable but it's still work to cut off, clean up and repaint).
Not sure of your set up, but have you considered putting a tool box on the a frame? You could store all of your set up aides there, ie leveling blocks, wood, wheel chocks etc. Maybe you could beef up your DC electric system by adding a new battery tray and second battery?
Just throwing some ideas at you, if your gonna add weight it may as well be functional.

Tool box has already been installed! My plans to attach the weight would be to weld angle Iron on the underside, on the inside of the frame up against the frame and drill in tap 6-8 holes on the inside of the frame to bolt the weight on. Allowing for quick easy removal. I have also relocated the spare tire from the back bumper where it was originally to under the tool box as well... The second battery has been a thought for a while, and will definitely happen at some point.
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Old 08-13-2013, 08:39 AM   #12
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If it we're me, I would add bags of concrete to the truck bed, between the axle and tail gate area. You can try out different weights and see if more tongue I'd what you need. If it does work, then cut the steel plates.
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Old 08-13-2013, 08:42 AM   #13
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If it we're me, I would add bags of concrete to the truck bed, between the axle and tail gate area. You can try out different weights and see if more tongue I'd what you need. If it does work, then cut the steel plates.


This is a really good idea! My retired neighbor mention something like that... he said just fill up the bed with stuff to see if it helps... But with bags of something you can figure out a weight much easier... My only issue hear is this will help with the ride quality but not going to help with the trailer sway... I don't know if a plate on the trailer tongue will help with trailer sway either though...
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Old 08-13-2013, 08:48 AM   #14
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Would not weld anything to the frame, but bolt the plates on using carriage bolts and "U" straps.
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Old 08-13-2013, 08:50 AM   #15
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I don't know if a plate on the trailer tongue will help with trailer sway either though...
I think It should add more weight on the friction sway control.
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Old 08-13-2013, 09:09 AM   #16
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Could your driving issues be the roads that you are traveling on more than the truck and trailer it's self. I think that the wheel base of the trailer is wider than the truck and many of the roads less traveled are also less maintained and are very grooved with a 'driving lane'. Your trailer wheels being wider will dip into and out of that driving lane and cause what you are describing. imo

I thought that the 'wisdom' of trailer pulling was to have the 'weight' even across the board. Pulling up the 'ball and tongue' and force a weight distribution toward the front of the tow vehicle and to the back of the trailer. Or am I missing out on something in this 'new math'.
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Old 08-13-2013, 11:59 AM   #17
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I think Brother Less may have a good point.

I recall in March being in AR on I-40 and cussing the state of their highways. The right lane is so rutted that the trailer would get thrown right and left constantly. If not for the fact that I had pulled it plenty on better roads, I would have been thinking all kinds of things were wrong. As it was I ripped a track bar mount on my front axle on the tow vehicle.

NOTHING will make it pull better in those situations.

This reminds me of airstream trailers, which are heavy with light tongues. Most of those guys end up with a Hensley...
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