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Old 03-24-2015, 09:18 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by comfun1 View Post
Mark, I have had both systems and in my opinion the others will eventually become a thing of the past.
So what your saying is this is the best hands down
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Old 03-24-2015, 08:11 PM   #12
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I would buy it again in a heartbeat.
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Old 03-25-2015, 11:55 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by sheehast View Post
I've heard from people that reversing at an angle to severe can damage sway bars, that was why I mentioned that there is zero need to remove the Andersen WDH under any circumstance.

You even posted certain criteria that can damage and how to avoid doing that, (from a different thread). If you know how to avoid breaking things, it sounds like you've heard of it. ((We towed a 3000 lbs popup camper for 7 seasons behind Chrysler minivans. Used a Reese Single Bar 400 WDH and friction sway control for a very stable rig. The instructions are clear in that you do not have to remove the SC to back up, as long as you do not jackknife far enough to bottom out the 2 pieces together. If you do that, you end up with a solid bar that can't slide within itself any longer. Any further turning will either break 1 of the little SC balls, or bend something on the hitch or trailer frame. So they say if you are not sure, better to remove. But I never removed mine, because I knew exactly how far I could go before bottoming out (or over-extending for that matter))
You obviously do not know the difference between a "sway bar" and a "weight distribution bar".

"Sway bar" is a common/slang term used to indicate a "Friction sway controller", which is an optional component whether a WDH is used or not. It is this friction sway controller that I was detailing could be damaged by someone that does not know what they are doing.

But the OP was asking if the WD bars needed to be removed in order to back up. They do not! Some WD bars have integrated sway control, and some do not. Either way, they will not be damaged by turning, and never need to be removed.
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Old 03-25-2015, 03:45 PM   #14
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I wasn't trying to be so granular "thebrakeman". I do know the difference, and what I'm saying is simply that nothing needs to be removed backing up with the Andersen WDH. Backing up with a round or trunnion bar system that has sway control, you could easily damage your sway control, you have to know that. Sorry I wasn't so specific.

Additionally my buddy did do some damage to his Equalizer 4pt WDH when he tried backing into a tight spot. While I'll agree today's hitches don't need to be removed in all cases, there is never a "that can't happen" scenario.

My statement illustrates that no need exists to remove any component for any reason with the Andersen hitch. I've back up where my TV and TT are at a 90 degree turn and haven't given it a second thought.

I agree you don't usually need to remove bars, but should remove the SC when backing up. But surely you must be able to see situations where it's best if you would remove them???
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Old 03-25-2015, 03:53 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by sheehast View Post
I wasn't trying to be so granular "thebrakeman". I do know the difference, and what I'm saying is simply that nothing needs to be removed backing up with the Andersen WDH. Backing up with a round or trunnion bar system that has sway control, you could easily damage your sway control, you have to know that. Sorry I wasn't so specific.

Additionally my buddy did do some damage to his Equalizer 4pt WDH when he tried backing into a tight spot. While I'll agree today's hitches don't need to be removed in all cases, there is never a "that can't happen" scenario.

My statement illustrates that no need exists to remove any component for any reason with the Andersen hitch. I've back up where my TV and TT are at a 90 degree turn and haven't given it a second thought.

I agree you don't usually need to remove bars, but should remove the SC when backing up. But surely you must be able to see situations where it's best if you would remove them???
If your friction sway bars are mounted correctly, you don't need to disconnect them. I towed and backed for over 30 yrs with a Reese Trunion wd hitch and dual friction sway bars and never once unhooked anything and never damaged anything even making some pretty tight turns going backwards. Any hitch/bumper can be damaged if you are backing and turn sharp enough. Common sense has to come into play sometime.
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Old 03-25-2015, 04:39 PM   #16
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I've only used the Andersen so I'm biased but I love how light and simple it is to hook up. It's quiet also. I don't notice sway at all when driving, but I also take my time and I'm never in a hurry when towing. The only thing I'd warn against is that if you've got a high TW, you may not be able to transfer as much weight back to the front as with others, which is really what a WDH is supposed to do. Anti-sway is just a bonus. My TW is around 750lbs when loaded, but I know others here who have heavier that don't seem to have a problem, so the debate continues I guess. I love mine though.
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Old 03-25-2015, 11:31 PM   #17
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1 How do you like it? Love it!
2 which version of the hitch? Don't recall exact one, but remember I called them and told 'em the trailer speces (Flagstaff 832IKBS). and think loaded weight to be slightly under 10K.
3 does the sway control work better than the old sway brakes? Can't compare Never used one on either previous trailers (30' jayco bunk, pulled with 91 suburban; 33' Rockwood/single slide) but no issues with sway.. but did feel the semis & buses!!
4 Is it as easy to hook up as they say? YES! once setup, really quick with the power jack!! Only investment is a longer handled (18"ratchet for adjustments)
5 does it help eliminate bounce as they say? haven's had any issues on this point either. Dip & bumps in the road probably biggest factor in that. Would say minimized!

Really like the hitch! did a 6500 mile run from MI to Colo to Coprus Christi to Pensacola, AL/GA and back to MI over 6 - 7 weeks shortly after getting the hitch.. and was a huge improvement over the bars.. in my opinion.
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Old 03-26-2015, 09:34 AM   #18
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I would like to see reviews from people who have larger trailers - over 35' with a tongue weight in excess of 1000lbs.
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Old 03-26-2015, 06:04 PM   #19
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I would like to see reviews from people who have larger trailers - over 35' with a tongue weight in excess of 1000lbs.
My 832 IKBS is a 36' unit. and the tongue weight is darn close (if irecall) to your 1K range (and some days probably some days a tad over..
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Old 03-26-2015, 07:16 PM   #20
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I've been researching the Andersen system as well and apparently it's pretty well discuss over on the Airstream forums.

The Andersen WD Hitch User Thread - Airstream Forums

There are, of course, detractors. Especially from people who don't have one - they just don't think it has enough metial. But overall I think it's turning out to be a solid choice.

There are compatiblity with certain Atwood couplers but I don't think any FR trailers use those.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f238...er-131162.html
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