- Andersen 'No-Sway' Weight Distribution Hitch -

mark0224 · 03-23-2015, 09:41 AM

I know this has been done before but was looking to update from my spring bar wdh to this and had some questions.
1 How do you like it?
2 which version of the hitch, I have a 2009 v lite 30 wrls 6000 lbs?
3 does the sway control work better than the old sway brakes?
4 Is it as easy to hook up as they say?
5 does it help eliminate bounce as they say?

These are the 2 I had seen
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006X21B0M/...=IK6MQHGXTHB45

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006X21BH0/...I1OHK8P108V6FM
Thanks for the help

sheehast · 03-23-2015, 12:03 PM

1. Yes I like it quite a bit, haven't had any problems with it. Andersen is easy to work with, i called a few times to get information about the WDH since it's a new idea to WHD.
2. I believe i bought the 3350, which is rated up to 14,000 lbs. But the dealer gave me the 8" drop shank due since the shorter one was gone.
3. I've only had the Andersen, so no comparison to give.
4. Super easy to hook up, and light weight. My 12 yr old is able to get it going even. I do have to finish tweaking and tightening it, but he is able to help out quite a bit. Also, I had back problems, so the idea of reefing on a bar to get it in place wasn't what i wanted. The Andersen doesn't need any of that. Very simple to use.
5. I don't have any bounce issues, or sway after adding this. Unless on extremely windy days, or on really rough roads.

I will say it took a little adjustment to figure out how far to tighten and had to adjust a bit in the beginning, but after that, it's bee simple to hook up, and un hook.

Also another thing I don't think people think about is, reversing with a WDH, but this Andersen doesn't need to be un hooked to back up, at all, no matter what angle you reverse at.

mark0224 · 03-23-2015, 12:29 PM

Thanks sheehast you've given me something to go on other than the reviews on internet sites that I have a tendency to be skeptical about.

sheehast · 03-23-2015, 01:30 PM

Sure. It has been pretty easy to use, I was glad about that. I was pretty skeptical too, but those chains are thick as can be and the whole thing does it's job.

mark0224 · 03-23-2015, 01:36 PM

Thanks I looked up your trailer so I could compare it to mine and get a grasp on this.

thebrakeman · 03-23-2015, 03:06 PM

I've never heard of any WDH that had to be removed/disengaged in order to back up, turning or not. Are you thinking of friction sway controllers? Those don't need to be removed either. But between the Equal-I-zer, Dual-Cams, (and even this Anderson), the only reason to use a friction sway controller these days is if you don't need a WDH at all.

sheehast · 03-23-2015, 08:50 PM

I've heard from people that reversing at an angle to severe can damage sway bars, that was why I mentioned that there is zero need to remove the Andersen WDH under any circumstance.

You even posted certain criteria that can damage and how to avoid doing that, (from a different thread). If you know how to avoid breaking things, it sounds like you've heard of it. ((We towed a 3000 lbs popup camper for 7 seasons behind Chrysler minivans. Used a Reese Single Bar 400 WDH and friction sway control for a very stable rig. The instructions are clear in that you do not have to remove the SC to back up, as long as you do not jackknife far enough to bottom out the 2 pieces together. If you do that, you end up with a solid bar that can't slide within itself any longer. Any further turning will either break 1 of the little SC balls, or bend something on the hitch or trailer frame. So they say if you are not sure, better to remove. But I never removed mine, because I knew exactly how far I could go before bottoming out (or over-extending for that matter))

mark0224 · 03-23-2015, 09:03 PM

Part of the reason I want to get rid of the old wdh is because when connecting the spring bars there's not enough room for the pipe you tighten them up with. As for backing up you are supposed to remove the sway brake to do tight maneuvering. The spring bar on my unit has moved the connection on the trailer when I made a tight corner but I contributed that to the tech that didn't tighten it down as much as i did. Biggest reason for wanting this is to carry a lot less equipment.

sheehast · 03-24-2015, 07:16 AM

You won't need any of that extra room to work with those bars with this system. The chains are compact when they aren't attached. In fact when I park the camper at the campground, you can basically detach the triangle plate only, there is no need to remove the chains or even unhook them. Then when I leave, attach the plate and tighten it up, and gone.

comfun1 · 03-24-2015, 07:53 AM

Mark, I have had both systems and in my opinion the others will eventually become a thing of the past.

mark0224 · 03-24-2015, 08:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by comfun1

Mark, I have had both systems and in my opinion the others will eventually become a thing of the past.

So what your saying is this is the best hands down

Henboy · 03-24-2015, 07:11 PM

I would buy it again in a heartbeat.

thebrakeman · 03-25-2015, 10:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sheehast

I've heard from people that reversing at an angle to severe can damage sway bars, that was why I mentioned that there is zero need to remove the Andersen WDH under any circumstance.

You even posted certain criteria that can damage and how to avoid doing that, (from a different thread). If you know how to avoid breaking things, it sounds like you've heard of it. ((We towed a 3000 lbs popup camper for 7 seasons behind Chrysler minivans. Used a Reese Single Bar 400 WDH and friction sway control for a very stable rig. The instructions are clear in that you do not have to remove the SC to back up, as long as you do not jackknife far enough to bottom out the 2 pieces together. If you do that, you end up with a solid bar that can't slide within itself any longer. Any further turning will either break 1 of the little SC balls, or bend something on the hitch or trailer frame. So they say if you are not sure, better to remove. But I never removed mine, because I knew exactly how far I could go before bottoming out (or over-extending for that matter))

You obviously do not know the difference between a "sway bar" and a "weight distribution bar".

"Sway bar" is a common/slang term used to indicate a "Friction sway controller", which is an optional component whether a WDH is used or not. It is this friction sway controller that I was detailing could be damaged by someone that does not know what they are doing.

But the OP was asking if the WD bars needed to be removed in order to back up. They do not! Some WD bars have integrated sway control, and some do not. Either way, they will not be damaged by turning, and never need to be removed.

sheehast · 03-25-2015, 02:45 PM

I wasn't trying to be so granular "thebrakeman". I do know the difference, and what I'm saying is simply that nothing needs to be removed backing up with the Andersen WDH. Backing up with a round or trunnion bar system that has sway control, you could easily damage your sway control, you have to know that. Sorry I wasn't so specific.

Additionally my buddy did do some damage to his Equalizer 4pt WDH when he tried backing into a tight spot. While I'll agree today's hitches don't need to be removed in all cases, there is never a "that can't happen" scenario.

My statement illustrates that no need exists to remove any component for any reason with the Andersen hitch. I've back up where my TV and TT are at a 90 degree turn and haven't given it a second thought.

I agree you don't usually need to remove bars, but should remove the SC when backing up. But surely you must be able to see situations where it's best if you would remove them???

OldCoot · 03-25-2015, 02:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sheehast

I wasn't trying to be so granular "thebrakeman". I do know the difference, and what I'm saying is simply that nothing needs to be removed backing up with the Andersen WDH. Backing up with a round or trunnion bar system that has sway control, you could easily damage your sway control, you have to know that. Sorry I wasn't so specific.

Additionally my buddy did do some damage to his Equalizer 4pt WDH when he tried backing into a tight spot. While I'll agree today's hitches don't need to be removed in all cases, there is never a "that can't happen" scenario.

My statement illustrates that no need exists to remove any component for any reason with the Andersen hitch. I've back up where my TV and TT are at a 90 degree turn and haven't given it a second thought.

I agree you don't usually need to remove bars, but should remove the SC when backing up. But surely you must be able to see situations where it's best if you would remove them???

If your friction sway bars are mounted correctly, you don't need to disconnect them. I towed and backed for over 30 yrs with a Reese Trunion wd hitch and dual friction sway bars and never once unhooked anything and never damaged anything even making some pretty tight turns going backwards. Any hitch/bumper can be damaged if you are backing and turn sharp enough. Common sense has to come into play sometime.

thestrangebrew · 03-25-2015, 03:39 PM

I've only used the Andersen so I'm biased but I love how light and simple it is to hook up. It's quiet also. I don't notice sway at all when driving, but I also take my time and I'm never in a hurry when towing. The only thing I'd warn against is that if you've got a high TW, you may not be able to transfer as much weight back to the front as with others, which is really what a WDH is supposed to do. Anti-sway is just a bonus. My TW is around 750lbs when loaded, but I know others here who have heavier that don't seem to have a problem, so the debate continues I guess. I love mine though.

woody9 · 03-25-2015, 10:31 PM

.
1 How do you like it? Love it!
2 which version of the hitch? Don't recall exact one, but remember I called them and told 'em the trailer speces (Flagstaff 832IKBS). and think loaded weight to be slightly under 10K.
3 does the sway control work better than the old sway brakes? Can't compare Never used one on either previous trailers (30' jayco bunk, pulled with 91 suburban; 33' Rockwood/single slide) but no issues with sway.. but did feel the semis & buses!!
4 Is it as easy to hook up as they say? YES! once setup, really quick with the power jack!! Only investment is a longer handled (18"ratchet for adjustments)
5 does it help eliminate bounce as they say? haven's had any issues on this point either. Dip & bumps in the road probably biggest factor in that. Would say minimized!

Really like the hitch! did a 6500 mile run from MI to Colo to Coprus Christi to Pensacola, AL/GA and back to MI over 6 - 7 weeks shortly after getting the hitch.. and was a huge improvement over the bars.. in my opinion.

DKRITTER · 03-26-2015, 08:34 AM

I would like to see reviews from people who have larger trailers - over 35' with a tongue weight in excess of 1000lbs.

woody9 · 03-26-2015, 05:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DKRITTER

I would like to see reviews from people who have larger trailers - over 35' with a tongue weight in excess of 1000lbs.

My 832 IKBS is a 36' unit. and the tongue weight is darn close (if irecall) to your 1K range (and some days probably some days a tad over..

boondoggled · 03-26-2015, 06:16 PM

I've been researching the Andersen system as well and apparently it's pretty well discuss over on the Airstream forums.

The Andersen WD Hitch User Thread - Airstream Forums

There are, of course, detractors. Especially from people who don't have one - they just don't think it has enough metial. But overall I think it's turning out to be a solid choice.

There are compatiblity with certain Atwood couplers but I don't think any FR trailers use those.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f238...er-131162.html

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