Anderson Hitch with Long heavy trailer?

[firedaniel]

Colem what did you end up getting? Did you ever get the blue Ox?

[northstar1960]

Originally Posted by Markwie

I just bought an Andersen. I have a 14 F150 and a Vibe 268RKS. I went to the scales and I cant seem to transfer the weight forward with it. I bought it to end the porpoising and it did that but it puts me over my GAWR in the rear end. My front end is lighter with the trailer than without. I stayed at the scales and played with it a bit and I just cant seem to get it to work for me. If I were towing with my old F350 it would be fine but it's not working so well with the 150. I'll likely be craigslisting it in the next week or two.

biggest problem is not enough truck to begin with . funny how so many can go and get it to not only work correctly and over load the front axle and others can't . each time to points back to not enough TV to begin with . so a standard WD hitch will help compensate for lack of truck . so safe on the road

[northstar1960]

Originally Posted by Platokidd

Read reviews, just not any that have claimed to transferred enough weight back to the front front axles or achieved stock height in the front of the tv. Like I said Im big n heavy, 8500lbs and long.
Most talk about the ease of hooking up or how quiet the hitch is. But I dont see folks talking bout getting the tv back to stock height in the front and or enough weight back on their front axles. That is whats really important with any wdh, plus no sway of course.

There are there . read the scale sheets posted . but most should stay with what they are comfortable with and not change their old ways . your not that big or heavy the 29xlrwill be a 9600 lbs . and several have posted great results .

[Platokidd]

Originally Posted by northstar1960

There are there . read the scale sheets posted .

Could you please post a link to the scale sheets that are posted.
Thanks

[thestrangebrew]

I love my Andersen and wouldn't trade it for anything, but I haven't used anything else and my tw is pretty light (~700-750lbs tw). I read a bunch of reviews and the only negative I found was the weight transfer for heavier tws, which is what a wdh is supposed to do. I haven't weighed by setup, just best guessing and measuring the wheel wells, but after dialing it in, I've gotten close to unloaded height on my front wells and I've been comfortable with the setup. This is coming from a newb who just started pulling last July so take what you will. My trailer is a lot lighter than what OP has though.

[Crockett]

Originally Posted by northstar1960

biggest problem is not enough truck to begin with . funny how so many can go and get it to not only work correctly and over load the front axle and others can't . each time to points back to not enough TV to begin with . so a standard WD hitch will help compensate for lack of truck . so safe on the road

I dont understand how the size of the tow vehicle has anything to do with whether or not you can transfer weight to the front.

[Home on the Range]

I recently bought an Anderson hitch for the same reasons, light weight,
quiet and great customer reviews.
I'm still trying to get it set up right and found it is more of a challenge than I thought it would be.
My TV is an F-150 Ecoboost.
My TT a 27' FR Wolf Pack toy hauler.
TT weighs 5,800 lbs empty with a GVWR of 8,100 lbs.
One of my issues is because the tandem axles on the toy hauler set so far back, I have 1,400 lbs on the tongue with it empty.
With the RZR side by side loaded in the rear it brings the tongue weight down to about 1,1000 lbs.
I'd like to be closer to 800-900 lbs on the tongue. (10%of GVWR).

I Installed the Anderson hitch according to the instruction guide and video.
With the TT loaded and connected to to TV, I have to tighten the Anderson hitch nuts down a lot (10 exposed threads) just to get the truck close to level. At that setting the truck front fender well is still about 1/2" higher than the rear and the TT is also about 1/2" higher in the front.
Also, to my surprise, when I put everything back on the CAT scales my truck front axle weight was 300 lbs lighter than the front axle weight without the TT and hitch. I'm afraid to tighten the nuts further to try to shift more weight to the front of the truck for fear of breaking something. Maybe my arm.
Anderson, in their install manual,
recommends using the Timbren SES (Suspension Enhancement system) on the rear axle of the truck.
I have one on order through eTrailer.com. Should arrive this week.
I hope that will help prevent my truck bed from squatting so low when connected to the TT.
Anyone have any advise on using the Timbren SES with the Anderson hitch? Or any other suggestions?

Home on the Range

[Crockett]

I see some of the f-150s are rated to 12,000 lbs. With what you trying to distribute, I feel you need a different WD hitch. Even if you eliminate the squat, you still lose on the benefits of weight distribution, and you need that with what your towing.

[uhduh camping]

Originally Posted by Crockett

I dont understand how the size of the tow vehicle has anything to do with whether or not you can transfer weight to the front.

You can only transfer a small amount of weight because when you try to get more weight you are then just compressing the urethane bushing. With my smaller lighter trailer I can transfer more weight because it is not taking as much weight off the front axle.

[uhduh camping]

Originally Posted by Home on the Range

I recently bought an Anderson hitch for the same reasons, light weight,
quiet and great customer reviews.
I'm still trying to get it set up right and found it is more of a challenge than I thought it would be.
My TV is an F-150 Ecoboost.
My TT a 27' FR Wolf Pack toy hauler.
TT weighs 5,800 lbs empty with a GVWR of 8,100 lbs.
One of my issues is because the tandem axles on the toy hauler set so far back, I have 1,400 lbs on the tongue with it empty.
With the RZR side by side loaded in the rear it brings the tongue weight down to about 1,1000 lbs.
I'd like to be closer to 800-900 lbs on the tongue. (10%of GVWR).

I Installed the Anderson hitch according to the instruction guide and video.
With the TT loaded and connected to to TV, I have to tighten the Anderson hitch nuts down a lot (10 exposed threads) just to get the truck close to level. At that setting the truck front fender well is still about 1/2" higher than the rear and the TT is also about 1/2" higher in the front.
Also, to my surprise, when I put everything back on the CAT scales my truck front axle weight was 300 lbs lighter than the front axle weight without the TT and hitch. I'm afraid to tighten the nuts further to try to shift more weight to the front of the truck for fear of breaking something. Maybe my arm.
Anderson, in their install manual,
recommends using the Timbren SES (Suspension Enhancement system) on the rear axle of the truck.
I have one on order through eTrailer.com. Should arrive this week.
I hope that will help prevent my truck bed from squatting so low when connected to the TT.
Anyone have any advise on using the Timbren SES with the Anderson hitch? Or any other suggestions?

Home on the Range

I have both Timbrens and Andersen. Timbrens help level the truck and the Andersen keeps control of trailer. Is the best system out there no probably not. But they do what they are supposed to. It does keep tongue weights down.

I would not tighten nut that tight I have bent the washer because the nut wanted to pulled through the washer. It made washer look like a cone essentially. If you get a cut in urethane bushing it will just keep get worse faster than you think.

[Play Harder]

I recently used an f150 ecoboost w max tow to trailer my XLR hyper light 29 about 8k from Ohio to Seattle -- and I can tell you the Anderson defiantly adds weight to the front axle -- my first try - I did not have it assemble correctly and got to see first hand front end of truck bouncing all over them cranked down on bushing and you could see truck leveling out - my first attemp I did not have hitch setup so that truck and Trailer where level this is critical.

Here's some instructions updated


Very impressed w ease of use of Anderson hitch - make sure your truck and TH with TH on truck - make sure they are level together before any other adjustments

Move adjustable ball hitch up or down to get level (I had to turn my hitch bracket upside down to get level)- this will save you lots of time - plus the hitch will be working properly from the start this way --- or you could do the way I did and really see how different adjustments made huge differences ( don't recommend lol)


Once level and hooked up install chains to TH make sure to put bracket as far back w no threads showing DO NOT TIGHTEN brackets --

- once hooked up to triangle plate and plate is connected to hitch with TH Jack raise TH while connected to TV - this will create slack in the chains - when you find your not gaining any more slack move brackets back as far they will go - - make sure triangle plate is straight per picture in install guide - make sure big washers are installed before nut( backside of bushing) then tighten TH brackets in place ---

Disengage TH Jack this will tighten chains (WD system) and torque nuts to 90lbs

If your front end still seems like it's floating (not enough weight transferred to front axle) - adjust nuts - tighten one thread at a time and drive to check

Or the opposite if you feel too much weight on front axle

Done

[Colem]

Originally Posted by firedaniel

Colem what did you end up getting? Did you ever get the blue Ox?

Well I'm still with my round bar setup until I can save the money for a better hitch. It took 3 trips to the scales and a couple of days scratching my head but I finally got it setup correctly. In a few weeks we are headed from Iowa to disney world so I wanted to make sure she was setup correctly. I did add something to help with light leaf springs road master active suspension. Everything drives real nice now


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[HONDAMAN174]

I added sumo springs to the rear to assist the lead springs. Then once I welded the brackets to the frame to keep them from sliding. My setup was much better last trip with more weight than before to the front. Not going to keep playing with it to get more away from where I'm at which is happy and content with my setup.

[thebrakeman]

So far this is like most of these debates:
-Lots of people like the Anderson, but few if any of them have any data to show when asked.
-Those with data to show have found that the Anderson can not return enough lost weight, unless their tow vehicle is significantly over-matched to the trailer.

WARNING: The following contains numbers, and calculations, based on sound engineering practices (trigonometry and engineering-statics). If you are not interested in such things, do not continue reading! If you simply like the way it feels, and are not interested in returning all lost weight to the front wheels, the following information is not for you!

The reasons for the Anderson's limitations are pure engineering statics.
a. A conventional WDH has essentially "rigid" bars (compared to a chain). The force is applied upward, so the normal/perpendicular distance to the pivot point (the ball) is about 2.5 feet behind the ball (the bar length). Therefore, for every 10 lbs applied upwards, a torque of ~25 ft-lbs (2.5 x 10) is applied to the hitch-head, transferring weight. And there is practically no limit to the amount of weight-transfer, which is why you have to be careful. I've heard of people transferring too much weight, and when going thru a dip a low speed, actually lose rear wheel traction! Of course, if you follow the instructions, this should never happen.

b. Conversely, the Anderson has the force applied rearward, so the normal/perpendicular distance to the pivot point (the ball) is only about 0.5 ft (less?) below the ball (at the plate). Therefore, for every 10lbs applied rearward, only ~5 ft-lbs of torque (0.5 x 10) is applied to the hitch to transfer weight. So it obviously will require significantly more force to do the same job. Fine. The chains and brackets are strong. So what!

But...there is a clear limit to weight transfer with the Anderson!
Before engaging, the chains are attached to the ball/plate area at a slight downward angle (rear to front). As you pull rearward, the coupler rises, and that angle approaches zero. The higher things rise, the less that angle, and the less efficient the system becomes. This is pure trigonometry. As the angle approaches zero, an infinite amount of force will be required to provide any further weight transfer.

Of course, if you have an over-matched truck, you may not need to transfer much weight, and this may be accomplished quickly, before the chain-angle approaches zero. This is why many with SuperDuty trucks find that they don't have a problem returning all lost weight.

But for those with 1/2-ton trucks or SUV's, the rear suspension is softer, and more upward travel is needed to return that lost weight. But the system simply can't handle that much travel, before the chain-angle approaches zero. Continuing to pull will only stretch the chain, but can never raise the hitch any further or transfer more weight.

[hbillsmith]

Nice trig lesson and I have no disagreements. I used the Andersen WDH on an SUV for 3 years. My experience was that it eliminated the sway and chucking as desired. I did not return 100% of front weight and for me it was not an issue. My SUV had auto leveling and the 150# moved forward was sufficient. The most attractive feature was the lighter weight of the WDH. With a receiver rated at only 600# tongue weight, the Andersen turned out to be a perfect solution.

[schrederman]

This is very well done... and explains why the chucking is lessened with the Anderson WDH. The force is applied upward with the bars which multiplies the force of a normal bounce, but applied horizontally with the Anderson. That tells me if the Anderson will work for your setup, it will probably tow more comfortably than a normal, bar-type WDH. But if it won't transfer enough weight... probably best to stick with bars.Thanks...

[Crockett]

using that logic, less bounce with a 4 way vs traditional WD hitch. Since we have springs on the tow vehicle, maybe better dampeners than OEM shocks would be logical as well.

[northstar1960]

Originally Posted by Platokidd

Could you please post a link to the scale sheets that are posted.
Thanks

I would love to . how ever i viewed so many sites and checked out so many reviews , i honestly can't remember which one the guy had his scale weights posted ./ Today i picked up my unit and hooked up the andersen and so far so good TH handled very well . sitting at a campground now hoping to get to St.louis tomorrow and then i'lll get some miles on the hitch.

[Colem]

Originally Posted by northstar1960

I would love to . how ever i viewed so many sites and checked out so many reviews , i honestly can't remember which one the guy had his scale weights posted ./ Today i picked up my unit and hooked up the andersen and so far so good TH handled very well . sitting at a campground now hoping to get to St.louis tomorrow and then i'lll get some miles on the hitch.

I have weighted my tow vehicle and camper recently and it was an eye opening experience. It does not take much to overload one of the several specs on a TV


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[northstar1960]

Originally Posted by Platokidd

Could you please post a link to the scale sheets that are posted.
Thanks

Now that i have my unit on and tested . the NO SWAY works as i drove 200 miles in 30mph winds no sway even when trucks blew buy. the NO Bounce works as the roads where crap and the truck handled great NOW FOR ALL READING THE ANDERSEN DOES NOT RE DISTRIBUTE WEIGHT TO THE FRONT AXLE AS MUCH AS IT should OTHER OLD FASHION BRANDS DO it better WITH THE BARS .
not a problem with my truck as it's big enough to handle the TH i brought but could see an issue for those that want to pull with a 1/2 ton truck

That being said i'm sorry for assuming it did it all even though I've seen the weight sheets . IT does not . but i won't change out as the front wheels axles handled great , and it all sat perfectly level and lower in the front then with my slide in camper . so there it is xlr 29 34' total length and handled great no bounced no sway and 8 mpg sucks but had plenty of wind