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Old 06-16-2015, 08:13 PM   #71
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Uhdud Camping,

You may be correct about doubting some answers from Andersen if someone there told you nose high was acceptable and 9 threads was too tight. As mentioned previously Jason from Andersen told me number of threads wasn't important and tt slightly nose down was acceptable provided tv is level, but not nose high. I know I have read on numerous threads tt nose high is a no no. Not sure who at Andersen knows the real story. I do know with my set up 8 threads showing and brackets mounted 27 1/2 " back from center of tongue works. Didn't try to go more. My truck was about 1/2" higher than unhooked, however rig towed straight and Semi's on the PA turnpike never moved me or produced any sway. Felt same as when towing my 5er. Wasn't expected that, but was certainly a pleasant surprise.
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Old 06-16-2015, 11:09 PM   #72
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Can you still feed the little link that has the screw on it through? It seemed real tight. I tried what you say for a sec and gave up. Trailers parked at storage, I may try again later. With how I have it now, all the way back, it hits the battery box tray and in order to get it to start to snug up, I am 3-4 threads , rather than 1. It still works if I crank down to 7 threads showing, but the issue is at much more, the socket isnt deep enough.

I'll check this out next time.
I think you have a couple of options. You could move the bracket towards the rear like I did. I did the two inch welds to make this easier.

The other option is what I did initially. I found a local pawn shop that had tons of loose sockets. I found a used long socket that fits for $7.99. They are a LOT more pricey if you go buy one new.
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Old 06-16-2015, 11:15 PM   #73
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But they did tell me to stack washers to get more socket on nut. They also said 9 threads showing with properly spaced brackets is to tight.

From my conversations with them, I would be more concerned with the spring compression than with the threads. The thread count is more of an easy mark to hit the next time you hitch up. The springs compression should be 1/4" before you drop the weight on the ball. If you compress the spring too much, the washer can cone and cut into the spring. Andersen recommended I add a second washer to keep this from happening.
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Old 06-20-2015, 02:17 AM   #74
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Don't anybody carry a torque wrench Anderson recommends torquing to a certain torque -I use 95lbs of torque this way I know my setting is the same every time I hook up?????
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Old 06-20-2015, 08:36 AM   #75
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I'd agree with Platokidd on using the Equal-i-zer 14K hitch. I've tried 3 set ups and this the one that works best with my 35 ft trailer. Later RJD
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Old 06-20-2015, 08:53 AM   #76
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Don't anybody carry a torque wrench Anderson recommends torquing to a certain torque -I use 95lbs of torque this way I know my setting is the same every time I hook up?????
I got the 14000# version an yes I have a torque wrench had to go past what they suggested on the hitch ball unit because there was a bit of slop and not enough room for a washer, they could supply some thin shims to fix this. The parts that bolt on the trailer itself I did torque to the suggested amount and on the first trip they did stay in place. I did also ck the Torque on all when I arrived at the campground and when I got home just to make sure nothing had loosened up while traveling.
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Old 06-20-2015, 11:42 AM   #77
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Don't anybody carry a torque wrench Anderson recommends torquing to a certain torque -I use 95lbs of torque this way I know my setting is the same every time I hook up?????
I believe the torque wrench is only needed when installing the hitch.
Setting is determined and adjusted by counting the number of threads showing on the tension bolt.
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Old 06-20-2015, 12:22 PM   #78
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The only way to know your setup is 100% the same as last setup is to use a torque wrench every time to find your sweet spot you need to torque up or down depending on your setup.

It took a few adjustments for me to get the f150 evo dial in - see my Anderson posts

Now if you welded your brackets on then I can see once you got it set - your good to go by counting threads
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Old 06-20-2015, 01:16 PM   #79
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I beg to differ with you. Your brackets should not move, welded or not.
If they are moving you potentially have a dangerous setup, and your "sweet spot" is moving in and out.

You don't need a torque wrench; Several things can change the torque setting from one hitch up to another. For example if your TV and trailer are not reconnected at the same angle each time, the strain on one chain will be more or less when you first hook up. Also, because of the built-in friction the triangle plate does not necessarily return to the same spot each time, even after going down a straight road for a while.

Just too much difference in chain tension side to side to be precisely measured. I think that is why Andersen wants us to use thread count to dial in the sweet spot, and advise us to have an equal amount of threads showing on each side.
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Old 06-20-2015, 03:21 PM   #80
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I beg to differ with you. Your brackets should not move, welded or not.
If they are moving you potentially have a dangerous setup, and your "sweet spot" is moving in and out.

You don't need a torque wrench; Several things can change the torque setting from one hitch up to another. For example if your TV and trailer are not reconnected at the same angle each time, the strain on one chain will be more or less when you first hook up. Also, because of the built-in friction the triangle plate does not necessarily return to the same spot each time, even after going down a straight road for a while.

Just too much difference in chain tension side to side to be precisely measured. I think that is why Andersen wants us to use thread count to dial in the sweet spot, and advise us to have an equal amount of threads showing on each side.
I agree.
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