Anderson Hitch with Long heavy trailer?

[Play Harder]

Yes brackets should not move but unless yours are welded how do you know?

A half a thread off makes a huge difference on the Anderson hitch

So I will disagree and go with a torque wrench setting that I know is correct every time 95ft lb is 95 ft lb no guess work there.

I'm towing with Chevy 1500 Quadrasteer and there is zero sway up and past 75mph with Anderson hitch set up correctly- 2016 XLR hyper Lite 29 hfs 8000lb plus

That's my 2 cents everybody has their own methods - and this is what works for me - counting threads works for others......

[Stovebolt]

Originally Posted by Play Harder

Yes brackets should not move but unless yours are welded how do you know?

A half a thread off makes a huge difference on the Anderson hitch

So I will disagree and go with a torque wrench setting that I know is correct every time 95ft lb is 95 ft lb no guess work there.

I'm towing with Chevy 1500 Quadrasteer and there is zero sway up and past 75mph with Anderson hitch set up correctly- 2016 XLR hyper Lite 29 hfs 8000lb plus

That's my 2 cents everybody has their own methods - and this is what works for me - counting threads works for others......

Following Andersen's instructions works for me. You don't need a torque wrench to set the spring tension all you have to do is follow the instructions. If it was necessary to use a torque wrench the instructions would state that.

Besides a torque wrench is only good for so a short period of time without being tested to make sure the torque is correct. They do have to be serviced. Counting threads makes it exact without torque wrench error. When was the last time you have your wrench checked?

[Play Harder]

My torque wench along with all my calibrated tools are certified yearly - I install big medical equipment - so I depend on exact #'s not kinda

[mark0224]

I can see where once you find the sweet spot setting, using a torque wrench to find out what it is and keeping that setting to get an accurate setting every time. I have a digital add on that makes every wrench a torque wrench, so once I get it to the sweet spot I might try it to see if it will get it right every time, will write all numbers on a piece of tape that is on socket provided (number of threads, torque etc.).

[Stovebolt]

Originally Posted by Play Harder

My torque wench along with all my calibrated tools are certified yearly - I install big medical equipment - so I depend on exact #'s not kinda

I once knew a machinist who became a tradesmen in the building trades. Most of the work was pretty cut and dry. Mr. Machinist had to break out all his fancy tools to do what most of us learned how to do correctly without getting overboard. Needless to say, time is money and Mr. Machinist wound up getting laid off because it took him 5 times as long to get the same results.

A torque wrench is important when mounting tires and getting the lug nuts set correctly. Using one for setting up the nuts on an Andersen Hitch is overkill and besides that 95 ft lbs seems like a hell of a lot on that system. Counting the threads like the Andersen people suggest and following the instructions is all that is needed. This system was tested and UL approved by government standards for a reason. I know some of you love to use your special tools but all that is needed is common sense. You want to over think things that's fine and I'm good with it if it makes you happy. Following instructions is what makes me happy. If more people did so, we would have a much better planet to live on. I will now get off my soap box.

Have a happy and safe father's day.

[Henboy]

Originally Posted by Play Harder

Yes brackets should not move but unless yours are welded how do you know?

A half a thread off makes a huge difference on the Anderson hitch

So I will disagree and go with a torque wrench setting that I know is correct every time 95ft lb is 95 ft lb no guess work there.

I'm towing with Chevy 1500 Quadrasteer and there is zero sway up and past 75mph with Anderson hitch set up correctly- 2016 XLR hyper Lite 29 hfs 8000lb plus

That's my 2 cents everybody has their own methods - and this is what works for me - counting threads works for others......

How do know if your brackets are moving around unless welded? (!!)

You should always inspect the brackets and frame area when you are about to tighten the tension nuts as part of overall hitch safety inspection.

If the brackets moved during your tow, the frame should have visable scratches, especially where the bracket bolts contact the upper frame and where the set screws hit. (Did you use the set screws?)

If the brackets moved the chain(s) will probably be looser than when you began your tow, or in your particular case, below 95#. Why don't you recheck the torque before you unhook? That might ease your worry about bracket movement, and you can give the torque wrench a workout twice per trip!

I agree with Stovebolt, 95# is way too much tension. If any of your parts fail, especially the urethane spring(s), Andersen should deny any warranty claim, as you have repeated failed to follow instructions.

Your setup, your choice. Let us know your experiences after you have towed a few thousand miles.

Just my 2 cents worth.

[Play Harder]

Lol - So you must just use your hand to to get your 7 thread count no racket needed on the socket I guess in your case 😁😁😛😛😛😛😛😛😛😛😛😛

Because it's take so much more time to use a racket torque wrench - instead of a racket wrench ---

Safe towing

[Play Harder]

Does towing from Ohio to Seattle count as a few thousand miles towed and about every other weekend since purchased -----

And guess what 7 threads showing is about 95 lbs of torque - so what u got to say about your warranty theory now!

[Henboy]

First, I say set it up like you wish!

Second, I say if you need seven threads you have not performed the initial setup correctly. At that point most of the shock absorbing ability has been removed from the urethane spring, IMHO.

I don't run 7 threads, and don't know what a "racket" wrench is. However my ratchet wrench is quiet, and uses the socket Andersen furnished. Since it wont go to seven threads perhaps they don't want you to go that far.

That is my take after reading how other sucessful setups work, by using (and following) the advice given me by Andersen tech support, and by my use of the Andersen hitch.

I am not interested in a war of words. Most of us try to give helpful advice based on our experience. You don't seem to need or take advice, so case closed as far as you are concerned.

Qut.

[Stovebolt]

Originally Posted by Henboy

How do know if your brackets are moving around unless welded? (!!)

You should always inspect the brackets and frame area when you are about to tighten the tension nuts as part of overall hitch safety inspection.

If the brackets moved during your tow, the frame should have visable scratches, especially where the bracket bolts contact the upper frame and where the set screws hit. (Did you use the set screws?)

If the brackets moved the chain(s) will probably be looser than when you began your tow, or in your particular case, below 95#. Why don't you recheck the torque before you unhook? That might ease your worry about bracket movement, and you can give the torque wrench a workout twice per trip!

I agree with Stovebolt, 95# is way too much tension. If any of your parts fail, especially the urethane spring(s), Andersen should deny any warranty claim, as you have repeated failed to follow instructions.

Your setup, your choice. Let us know your experiences after you have towed a few thousand miles.

Just my 2 cents worth.

[Stovebolt]

Originally Posted by Play Harder

Lol - So you must just use your hand to to get your 7 thread count no racket needed on the socket I guess in your case 😁😁😛😛😛😛😛😛😛😛😛😛

Because it's take so much more time to use a racket torque wrench - instead of a racket wrench ---

Safe towing

If you are using your hand then your brackets aren't in the right place or you must be king kong.

[Henboy]

Cheers!!