Anderson Hitch with Long heavy trailer?

[thebrakeman]

Originally Posted by jlgail4309

50 pounds of hitch holding 15000 pounds together. That don't add up to me !! I been a machinist for 20 years everything has a breaking point. That being said I like it heavy and lots of steal. Just me not saying its bad or good.

I'm not a fan of the Andersen. But I think you are a bit off-target.
The actual pulling load of the trailer goes thru the ball, to the shank, to the receiver, to the frame. For that, I see no significant difference here.
The parts that are lightened up, are those that distribute weight and control sway. Those forces do not amount to 15000 lbs.

The light weight of the Andersen may be indirectly responsible for the fact that it is limited in it's functionality (IMHO). But I don't think this amounts to a safety issue, for fear of something failing.

[jlgail4309]

Yea It's just a personal opinion. Your truck weighs so much and the trailer weighs so much. Then the 50 pound hitch holds it all together.

[uhduh camping]

What about the 5/8" 4 ounce pin that keeps it attached to truck. I don't lose sleep over the Andersen hitch. (nor pin)

[mark0224]

Question what connects most spring bars to the trailer? Answer chains. The chain that connected my old wdh to my trailer were a lot lighter than the ones on my Anderson hitch. The fact that it weighs 50lbs is irrelevant the weakest link is the chain and this chain is just a little smaller than the safety chain.

[Stovebolt]

I just covered 2,000 miles with my Andersen Hitch attached to a FR 264 Surveyor pulled by my 2013 Ford F150 Ecoboost with the max tow package. Towed like a dream especially when passing or being passed by semi's. Wind doesn't blow the trailer and then the truck like the old system, it moves them together, sure beats the white knuckle feeling of the bars and chain system I used to have. Also I used premium fuel on this trip, averaged 12.5 MPG's and the same trip with regular last year I got 10.5. Granted there could have been more wind involved then last time but it seems like it was worth the fuel price difference which in the end I feel I was ahead by a slight amount. I'm impressed by the Andersen Hitch.

[AMG]

Originally Posted by HONDAMAN174

Connect to the plate using the SECOND link and leave the first dangling.

Can you still feed the little link that has the screw on it through? It seemed real tight. I tried what you say for a sec and gave up. Trailers parked at storage, I may try again later. With how I have it now, all the way back, it hits the battery box tray and in order to get it to start to snug up, I am 3-4 threads , rather than 1. It still works if I crank down to 7 threads showing, but the issue is at much more, the socket isnt deep enough.

I'll check this out next time.

[Scotty]

Originally Posted by AMG

Can you still feed the little link that has the screw on it through? It seemed real tight. I tried what you say for a sec and gave up. Trailers parked at storage, I may try again later. With how I have it now, all the way back, it hits the battery box tray and in order to get it to start to snug up, I am 3-4 threads , rather than 1. It still works if I crank down to 7 threads showing, but the issue is at much more, the socket isnt deep enough.

I'll check this out next time.

I had the same issue on my Hemi. Battery box frame was in the way. Could only get the brackets back 27 1/2" from center of tongue. Had to cut 1 link each side. someone earlier mentioned you could add washers between nut and tube. Don't see why that won't work. That would let you tighten down and not run at of socket. I know when I hand tighten I'm already at 4 threads showing and I tighten on down until I have 8 threads. Jason at Andersen says there's no real significance on number of threads as long as you equal on both sides and tt and tv are level, or with tt slightly nose down.

[uhduh camping]

I will have to go back thru my emails. I could be nose high or nose low but not level. An email to Andersen they recommended nose high. Not trying to be argumentative, but I have some doubts about answers from Andersen. But they did tell me to stack washers to get more socket on nut. They also said 9 threads showing with properly spaced brackets is to tight.

[Henboy]

I have pulled over 14,000 miles with my Anderson in all manner of weather, road, wind and load conditions, and have hooked up and unhooked 40- 50 times minimum. IMHO it is a great hitch, little if any bounce or sway, and very easy to use.

My observations:

Proper/correct initial setup is critical, especially ball height;
This hitch will not lift your loaded ball up 4" as some have tried;
A TV with a suspension capable of towing your trailer is necessary;
You should be able to get TV and trailer level with no more than 4 threads showing;
Anderson will not put all the weight back on the front wheels;
Read and follow the instructions;
Call the factory for help- they are great at solving your problems;
Reading thru the various threads leads me to believe that about 800# tongue weight is max to get a good setup with the Anderson.

Just my 2 cents worth......

[Stovebolt]

Originally Posted by Henboy

I have pulled over 14,000 miles with my Anderson in all manner of weather, road, wind and load conditions, and have hooked up and unhooked 40- 50 times minimum. IMHO it is a great hitch, little if any bounce or sway, and very easy to use.

My observations:

Proper/correct initial setup is critical, especially ball height;
This hitch will not lift your loaded ball up 4" as some have tried;
A TV with a suspension capable of towing your trailer is necessary;
You should be able to get TV and trailer level with no more than 4 threads showing;
Anderson will not put all the weight back on the front wheels;
Read and follow the instructions;
Call the factory for help- they are great at solving your problems;
Reading thru the various threads leads me to believe that about 800# tongue weight is max to get a good setup with the Anderson.

Just my 2 cents worth......

I agree with you, I think you are spot on. I just traveled 2,000 miles with my Andersen setup and love it. But like you stated, it has to be set up correctly from the gitgo.

[Scotty]

Uhdud Camping,

You may be correct about doubting some answers from Andersen if someone there told you nose high was acceptable and 9 threads was too tight. As mentioned previously Jason from Andersen told me number of threads wasn't important and tt slightly nose down was acceptable provided tv is level, but not nose high. I know I have read on numerous threads tt nose high is a no no. Not sure who at Andersen knows the real story. I do know with my set up 8 threads showing and brackets mounted 27 1/2 " back from center of tongue works. Didn't try to go more. My truck was about 1/2" higher than unhooked, however rig towed straight and Semi's on the PA turnpike never moved me or produced any sway. Felt same as when towing my 5er. Wasn't expected that, but was certainly a pleasant surprise.

[madmaxmutt]

Originally Posted by AMG

Can you still feed the little link that has the screw on it through? It seemed real tight. I tried what you say for a sec and gave up. Trailers parked at storage, I may try again later. With how I have it now, all the way back, it hits the battery box tray and in order to get it to start to snug up, I am 3-4 threads , rather than 1. It still works if I crank down to 7 threads showing, but the issue is at much more, the socket isnt deep enough.

I'll check this out next time.

I think you have a couple of options. You could move the bracket towards the rear like I did. I did the two inch welds to make this easier.

The other option is what I did initially. I found a local pawn shop that had tons of loose sockets. I found a used long socket that fits for $7.99. They are a LOT more pricey if you go buy one new.

[madmaxmutt]

Originally Posted by uhduh camping

But they did tell me to stack washers to get more socket on nut. They also said 9 threads showing with properly spaced brackets is to tight.

From my conversations with them, I would be more concerned with the spring compression than with the threads. The thread count is more of an easy mark to hit the next time you hitch up. The springs compression should be 1/4" before you drop the weight on the ball. If you compress the spring too much, the washer can cone and cut into the spring. Andersen recommended I add a second washer to keep this from happening.

[Play Harder]

Don't anybody carry a torque wrench Anderson recommends torquing to a certain torque -I use 95lbs of torque this way I know my setting is the same every time I hook up?????

[aceinspp]

I'd agree with Platokidd on using the Equal-i-zer 14K hitch. I've tried 3 set ups and this the one that works best with my 35 ft trailer. Later RJD

[mark0224]

Originally Posted by Play Harder

Don't anybody carry a torque wrench Anderson recommends torquing to a certain torque -I use 95lbs of torque this way I know my setting is the same every time I hook up?????

I got the 14000# version an yes I have a torque wrench had to go past what they suggested on the hitch ball unit because there was a bit of slop and not enough room for a washer, they could supply some thin shims to fix this. The parts that bolt on the trailer itself I did torque to the suggested amount and on the first trip they did stay in place. I did also ck the Torque on all when I arrived at the campground and when I got home just to make sure nothing had loosened up while traveling.

[Henboy]

Originally Posted by Play Harder

Don't anybody carry a torque wrench Anderson recommends torquing to a certain torque -I use 95lbs of torque this way I know my setting is the same every time I hook up?????

I believe the torque wrench is only needed when installing the hitch.
Setting is determined and adjusted by counting the number of threads showing on the tension bolt.

[Play Harder]

The only way to know your setup is 100% the same as last setup is to use a torque wrench every time to find your sweet spot you need to torque up or down depending on your setup.

It took a few adjustments for me to get the f150 evo dial in - see my Anderson posts

Now if you welded your brackets on then I can see once you got it set - your good to go by counting threads

[Henboy]

I beg to differ with you. Your brackets should not move, welded or not.
If they are moving you potentially have a dangerous setup, and your "sweet spot" is moving in and out.

You don't need a torque wrench; Several things can change the torque setting from one hitch up to another. For example if your TV and trailer are not reconnected at the same angle each time, the strain on one chain will be more or less when you first hook up. Also, because of the built-in friction the triangle plate does not necessarily return to the same spot each time, even after going down a straight road for a while.

Just too much difference in chain tension side to side to be precisely measured. I think that is why Andersen wants us to use thread count to dial in the sweet spot, and advise us to have an equal amount of threads showing on each side.

[Stovebolt]

Originally Posted by Henboy

I beg to differ with you. Your brackets should not move, welded or not.
If they are moving you potentially have a dangerous setup, and your "sweet spot" is moving in and out.

You don't need a torque wrench; Several things can change the torque setting from one hitch up to another. For example if your TV and trailer are not reconnected at the same angle each time, the strain on one chain will be more or less when you first hook up. Also, because of the built-in friction the triangle plate does not necessarily return to the same spot each time, even after going down a straight road for a while.

Just too much difference in chain tension side to side to be precisely measured. I think that is why Andersen wants us to use thread count to dial in the sweet spot, and advise us to have an equal amount of threads showing on each side.

I agree.