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Old 09-16-2014, 08:49 AM   #11
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Did you notice the fine print?
NOTE: Utilizing lubrication on the Equal-i-zer L-Bracket, in the form of the Sway Bracket Jacket or any grease type lubricant, may lessen or decrease your sway control by a small degree.
Yes, and all comments I've seen about them indicate that users see no noticeable difference in sway control just as the fine print indicates.
I'll post my results after the weekend as that will be my first opportunity to use them.
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Old 09-16-2014, 08:50 AM   #12
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Sounds like a plan! Post some pics, too. I've heard a lot about the squeaking and creaking of those things...
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Old 09-16-2014, 10:02 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by BigBaron View Post
Did you notice the fine print?
NOTE: Utilizing lubrication on the Equal-i-zer L-Bracket, in the form of the Sway Bracket Jacket or any grease type lubricant, may lessen or decrease your sway control by a small degree.
The sway control on the Anderson is due to the friction on the bars, so 1. the "jackets" reduce sway control, and 2. wear on the bars is obviously an issue.

Also, the Anderson hitch puts all the load on the pawl and bolt that hold the hitch coupler closed. Those are NOT designed to take those kinds of loads. Just doing a quick calculation, the short length of the Anderson's weight transfer attachment at the bottom of the hitch means that thousands of pounds of force would be required to generate 500 lbs. of weight transfer.
I want the Anderson because it does not hang down significantly, I am going to modify the pawl and coupler bolt system to handle the loads, and I only need a few hundred pounds of weight transfer. Also it is very light so shipping to Korea won't be as expensive!

What is a pawl on a travel trailer. I thought that was the ratcheting winch mechanism on boat trailers.
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Old 09-16-2014, 10:13 AM   #14
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What is a pawl on a travel trailer. I thought that was the ratcheting winch mechanism on boat trailers.
The pawl is the move-able part that grabs the hitch ball from underneath. It can also be called the "underjaw".
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Old 09-16-2014, 10:35 AM   #15
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The pawl is the move-able part that grabs the hitch ball from underneath. It can also be called the "underjaw".
I was told (grain of salt) that the latch will move freely. The stress is above the jaw.
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Old 09-16-2014, 11:14 AM   #16
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Check out the image on the 2nd row, 2nd from the left: Gallery For > Trailer Hitch Coupler Assembly
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Old 09-16-2014, 11:27 AM   #17
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BigB,I was referring to your Post,(The sway control on the Anderson is due to the friction on the bars, so 1. the "jackets" reduce sway control, and 2. wear on the bars is obviously an issue.) That is why I said Anderson uses (Chains) Youroo!!
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Old 09-16-2014, 11:48 AM   #18
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Check out the image on the 2nd row, 2nd from the left: Gallery For > Trailer Hitch Coupler Assembly
My latch is a different design. I wonder if that makes a difference.

Edit: There is a huge supposition on rv.net that all balls are flat on the top, but the Anderson (by all appearances) is fully round on top.
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Old 09-16-2014, 12:25 PM   #19
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My question is what is your trailer length and weights?

I am using an anderson with a 31' 7500 lb Evo. Yes, not enough weight goes to the front. It is easy setup, pulling and backing, and easy to throw receiver in back seat when going thru car wash. Sway is under control- took me a while to figure out that my problem was under inflated tires.


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Old 09-16-2014, 12:31 PM   #20
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My question is what is your trailer length and weights?

I am using an anderson with a 31' 7500 lb Evo. Yes, not enough weight goes to the front. It is easy setup, pulling and backing, and easy to throw receiver in back seat when going thru car wash. Sway is under control- took me a while to figure out that my problem was under inflated tires.


2014 Stealth Evo 2850 "Woodstock"
2011 Toyota Tundra Rock Crawler TRD 5.7 "Clifford"
Trailer: 2011 Surveyor SV235RKS (GVWR 7476)
I never get near fully loaded, though. Normally, it is right at 5300 unless we are going into the woods then add 36 gal water.
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