Anderson vs. Equal-i-zer

[ChooChooMan74]

Thinking mechanically and scientifically, I can't see how the andersen can distribute as much weight as the bar type. Lifting vertically seems easier to lift the rear end than pulling horizontally.

[madmaxmutt]

Originally Posted by ChooChooMan74

Thinking mechanically and scientifically, I can't see how the andersen can distribute as much weight as the bar type. Lifting vertically seems easier to lift the rear end than pulling horizontally.

LOL! I have read a lot on this and watched a lot of video. It seems to me there is not anything scientific to judge the mechanics about the judgement of the Anderson. Just a bunch of guessing. I have only seen two posts from people who didn't like it. Most provide glowing reports. The sampling is pretty small, though.

I don't know if it will provide enough distribution for all cases, but from the reports I have read my case would probably work just fine. I just have to talk myself into taking the leap of faith.

The only thing that seems to be a problem with it is reconnecting at odd angles or an angle other than you disconnected at. The company put out a video on two ways to do it, but it looks painful to me even at that.

[HONDAMAN174]

Yes- you need to line up/drop the trailer as straight as possible otherwise you have to wrestle with it


2014 Stealth Evo 2850 "Woodstock"
2011 Toyota Tundra Rock Crawler TRD 5.7 "Clifford"

[comfun1]

When you reconnect try to position your truck at approximately the same angle that it was at when you disconnected.

[BigBaron]

madmaxmutt - it's statics 101.
The torque that is required to transfer the weight to the front of the TV is huge. Just like a torque wrench, the longer the lever, the easier it is to apply the torque.
Spring bars are long, so the forces are small (and the opposing force is directed downward at the ball).
The Anderson hitch WD portion (under the ball) is very short, so the forces required to generate the same torque are huge. Also, the opposing force is placed directly against the underjaw. These parts were not made for this magnitude of force.


There is one type of coupler that Anderson says doesn't work, but I don't know which one it is.
I can't wait until I get my Anderson hitch! (New TV ordered)
It looks awesome, and a bunch of folks love it.

[OldCoot]

BB, altho I don't have a tt, the fact that all the load is on the coupler latch is exactly why I would be skeptical with an Anderson. Neither type latch is designed for those loads.

[GL1800Rider]

Just checking to see if you have installed these yet. I was wondering if there is any problem getting the square pin clips into the holes in the L bracket with these installed?

Originally Posted by offroad

Supposedly these take care of much of the noise issue.
I'll know after this coming weekend how much they reduce noise, the factory sold me the jackets for dealer cost as a courtesy for buying the hitch (I bought from RVW).
Couldn't be happier with the way my new TT tows though.

[offroad]

Originally Posted by GL1800Rider

Just checking to see if you have installed these yet. I was wondering if there is any problem getting the square pin clips into the holes in the L bracket with these installed?

Yes they are on my trailer brackets, and no issues at all with the L-pins that hold the WD bars onto the brackets. They just slip on from the bottom and drop onto the L portion.

Factory did say however, that you need the new style L-pin that has the flip down spring loaded wire (snap L-pin). The older style L-pin that used cotter pins won't work with the bracket jackets.

We'll be camping again this weekend, and I'll upload some pics and also report on noise reduction and any noticeable effect on sway reduction.

[jawga]

its easy to adjust the andersen hitch at odd angles. u only attach one chain and tighten till it gets as straight as possible and the fine tune it by tightening one side at a time. we have to do this each time because of where our trailer is parked

[madmaxmutt]

Well, I ordered an Andersen. (just realized I have been spelling it wrong

I don't think I have ever seen a product where the actual owners seem so happy with it. The Internet usually brings out those that dislike items.

Anyway, I am taking the leap of faith with this one. I will let you know what I think after I test it out.

[thebrakeman]

Originally Posted by comfun1

I have had a Reese WDH and sway bar in the past and for my last two campers I have been using the Andersen. No way would I consider going back to the bars. I made two trips over the passes in the Rocky mountains last year and two more this year. I have towed about 13,000 miles total now on two different trailers using the Andersen. These trailers handle as well as a Cardinal 5th wheel that I used to have. My current trailer is 33'-6" long. I think the new technology is hard for a lot of people to accept. It is leaving the familiar and stepping into the unknown, not to mention gambling a few hundred dollars in the hopes it works.

What is your tow vehicle?

[thebrakeman]

Originally Posted by BigBaron

Sounds like a plan! Post some pics, too. I've heard a lot about the squeaking and creaking of those things...

I used my 1000 lb Equal-I-zer for 2 season without the jackets, and then 2 seasons with:
1. I had zero decrease in stability, even though it's obvious that there is less friction force applied. I attribute this to the fact that the 2 forward points of sway control are still in effect.
2. I would say the amount of noise (which was previously ridiculous and embarrassing) is only about 25% of what it was without the jackets.
3. The jackets are a cinch to place on and off each time so you don't lose them.
4. In 2 seasons of use, I see no significant wear on the jackets. They seem to have found the right material which can resist the compressive load, but not wear from friction.

[Kaadk]

Originally Posted by madmaxmutt

Well, I ordered an Andersen. (just realized I have been spelling it wrong

I don't think I have ever seen a product where the actual owners seem so happy with it. The Internet usually brings out those that dislike items.

Anyway, I am taking the leap of faith with this one. I will let you know what I think after I test it out.

Yes, please let us know. I'm not in the market for a new hitch, the old one only being a year and a season old, but based on what I've seen I'm quite tempted to take an Andersen for a test drive. That looks like it'd be a lot easier on/off than the current spring bars, chains, antisway bars, etc... I have. Lighter too. My current hitch is a pain to put on/off.

[thebrakeman]

Originally Posted by offroad

Yes they are on my trailer brackets, and no issues at all with the L-pins that hold the WD bars onto the brackets. They just slip on from the bottom and drop onto the L portion.

Factory did say however, that you need the new style L-pin that has the flip down spring loaded wire (snap L-pin). The older style L-pin that used cotter pins won't work with the bracket jackets.

We'll be camping again this weekend, and I'll upload some pics and also report on noise reduction and any noticeable effect on sway reduction.

You have it backwards:
-The jackets will not work with the NEW style pins.
-The jackets only work with the old-style pins, with the cotter pins.
-So far, I have not seen Equal-I-zer come out with a design revision to allow the jackets to be used with the new-style pins, which is surprising.

[thebrakeman]

Originally Posted by madmaxmutt

Well, I ordered an Andersen. (just realized I have been spelling it wrong

I don't think I have ever seen a product where the actual owners seem so happy with it. The Internet usually brings out those that dislike items.

Anyway, I am taking the leap of faith with this one. I will let you know what I think after I test it out.

I hope this works out well for you. But for goodness sake, please do the rest of us a favor, and take some measurements for yourself and the rest of us. Measure your front wheelwell height from the ground:
a. before attaching trailer to ball.
b. after attaching trailer, but before engaging the Andersen chains
c. after engaging the Andersen

If you don't do this, but simply report how light and quiet it is, you will not be helping everybody answer certain questions that are very important to us. Those of us who find it crucial to move all lost weight back onto the front wheels want some solid data to prove or disprove our concerns that this system is not up to the task.

Thanks!

[madmaxmutt]

Originally Posted by thebrakeman

I hope this works out well for you. But for goodness sake, please do the rest of us a favor, and take some measurements for yourself and the rest of us. Measure your front wheelwell height from the ground:
a. before attaching trailer to ball.
b. after attaching trailer, but before engaging the Andersen chains
c. after engaging the Andersen

If you don't do this, but simply report how light and quiet it is, you will not be helping everybody answer certain questions that are very important to us. Those of us who find it crucial to move all lost weight back onto the front wheels want some solid data to prove or disprove our concerns that this system is not up to the task.

Thanks!

Wilco. I am pretty (I'll use the nice word) meticulous when it comes to these things. I will post details when I get ready to install the hitch and results afterwards.
It should be here on Tuesday

[HONDAMAN174]

If you decide that the unit works for you, see about having the brackets welded to the frame. Sometimes they "walk".


2014 Stealth Evo 2850 "Woodstock"
2011 Toyota Tundra Rock Crawler TRD 5.7 "Clifford"

[madmaxmutt]

Originally Posted by HONDAMAN174

If you decide that the unit works for you, see about having the brackets welded to the frame. Sometimes they "walk".


2014 Stealth Evo 2850 "Woodstock"
2011 Toyota Tundra Rock Crawler TRD 5.7 "Clifford"

Thanks,

My plan is to drill the set screw positions. Once I have tested it out on at least one short trip, I plan to weld the outside brackets as described in the manual's optional installation.

[offroad]

Originally Posted by thebrakeman

You have it backwards:
-The jackets will not work with the NEW style pins.
-The jackets only work with the old-style pins, with the cotter pins.
-So far, I have not seen Equal-I-zer come out with a design revision to allow the jackets to be used with the new-style pins, which is surprising.

They must have new jackets now, as the one's the factory sent me fit my brackets with the new style snap L-pins perfectly. The part number they sent was 95-01-5150

I'll post some pictures this weekend.

[comfun1]

Originally Posted by thebrakeman

What is your tow vehicle?

I used to tow a 27' toyhauler with an f150, now I tow a 33'-6" toyhauler with a GMC 2500.