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Old 05-17-2011, 08:13 AM   #1
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Another Dealer Hitch Setup Story

My buddy called me to complain that his new Surveyor didn't tow well and that he was unhappy pulling it with his new F150. The dealer purchased the Reese straight-line system and installed it. Since my Surveyor, towed by a F150, tows like a rock, I immediately suspected a bad setup. So I go over to look and sure enough, the trailer, hooked to the truck, is sitting with a nose up attitude. And even worse, there is virtually no pressure on the WD trunions. Turns out the dealer ordered the wrong shank and couldn't get the ball low enough. So what the heck, just send him out the door right? After diagnosing the problem, he went back to the dealer who's response was "tough luck. You are going to have to buy another shank" !!! Can you believe that? After much wrangling with the dealer and with Reese, they finally decided that they could replace the shank at no cost.

There is no shortage of bozo dealers . . . They virtually sent him out the door with, in effect, no WD system (because little pressure on the bars) and a trailer attitude that invites wag. And then they didn't want to stand behind their work.
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Old 05-17-2011, 10:17 AM   #2
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I think I need a different shank for my equal-i-zer WD hitch. The dealer installed it while I was in signing paperwork and had already hooked it up to my TV.
It tows just fine but the tongue has a bit of a nose up stance.
I measured the ammount of drop the TV has when I'm hooked up and the rear drops about an inch more than the front. Without the torsion bars connected the rear of my TV will drop about 3 inches more than without so I know the bars are loaded pretty good.
I plan to head over to the CAT scales to see what weights I have once I get the TT loaded for the season's camping.
I want to get it right because the DW and I are going fulltime after the Labor Day weekend.
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Old 05-17-2011, 10:37 AM   #3
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I have found a great dealer within a 2 hr drive. When we purchased our TT. our shank (from a different TT) was the wrong size. DeeJay Rv in Havelock On. changed the shank at no charge to me. They also spent over an hour getting the WDH right. They did not accept being close but wanted it 100%. All dealer are not bad. Most will bend over backwards to help their customers.
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Old 05-17-2011, 10:42 AM   #4
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My setup from the dealer only put 60 lbs. back on the front axle.....I was still 240 lbs. lite there. I think it is very important that new owners do their own fender measurements and/or take their units across scales to see what their weights are, and adjust as necessary.
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Old 05-17-2011, 12:33 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevea1956 View Post
I think I need a different shank for my equal-i-zer WD hitch. The dealer installed it while I was in signing paperwork and had already hooked it up to my TV.
It tows just fine but the tongue has a bit of a nose up stance.
I measured the ammount of drop the TV has when I'm hooked up and the rear drops about an inch more than the front. Without the torsion bars connected the rear of my TV will drop about 3 inches more than without so I know the bars are loaded pretty good.
I plan to head over to the CAT scales to see what weights I have once I get the TT loaded for the season's camping.
I want to get it right because the DW and I are going fulltime after the Labor Day weekend.
Steve on my 3/4 Chevy I had the long drop for the Reese D/C. Due to the placement of the coupler on our V-Lite same as a Windjammer,I had to add 4" to the drop to make the trailer level for proper tension on the D/C. It was like fighting alligators to get this thing set up! Youroo!!
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Old 05-18-2011, 08:35 PM   #6
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ive never used a WD but i understand how they work. only problem i have is when a semi passes me that it would suck me towards him...
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Old 05-18-2011, 09:03 PM   #7
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ive never used a WD but i understand how they work. only problem i have is when a semi passes me that it would suck me towards him...
that'll happen with or without the WD setup. Damn scary too if it goes south on you.
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Old 05-18-2011, 09:12 PM   #8
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I goofed when I bought my Equalizer hitch - told the dealer what I needed as far as drop shank and it wasnt enough (I still needed almost 2 inches) - the only way to get it close for the drive home was to fill the fresh water tank full and then it sat 1/4 nose high - I could 60 mph ok but anything over I had sway - once home I ordered another drop shank and it is right height.
I had called the manufacture of equalizer to make sure on some of the pieces that are showing wear and in the process found out with my shank setup my hitch flexes when I lift the trailer up to put the bar's on the L Brackets. Going to cost out a class IV hitch and see what it entails to install that under my truck to make it stronger.
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Old 05-18-2011, 10:52 PM   #9
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ive never used a WD but i understand how they work. only problem i have is when a semi passes me that it would suck me towards him...

We use the Reese dual-cam setup...we don't even feel it when a truck goes by!
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Old 05-20-2011, 09:02 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by mtnguy View Post
My setup from the dealer only put 60 lbs. back on the front axle.....I was still 240 lbs. lite there. I think it is very important that new owners do their own fender measurements and/or take their units across scales to see what their weights are, and adjust as necessary.
Exactly Chap. This dealer told my friend none of that stuff; just sent him away. That's why it is so important to read the install instructions yourself and truly understand how to properly set up your rig. And your adjustments can be different unloaded vs loaded. On my Surveyor, any added weight pretty much tends to be forward of the trailer axles; so tongue weight can change substantially; one needs to adjust for that.

It wasn't my intention to indict all dealers; just saying, there is nothing like knowing exactly how the WD system works to make sure you are towing safely.
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