Another Towing Question..Need Advice Please

[Timmy]

I am looking at upgrading our camper to a 2006 Wildwood LA 312BHBS with a weight of 7,500lbs. I have a 2008 Chevy 1500 Crew Cab LTZ 5.3 V8 with 3.73 gear, 18" tires, max towing package/trailering package... Both the Chevy dealer were i bought the truck a year ago and the rv dealer said no problem with weight dist. and sway controll. I also called our local GM dealer who said i will be fine. All three said the truck is rated for 10,500 lbs towing. The camper is 32 feet and is by far the biggest camper i have ever looked at towing. (A little intimidating as well) I just dont want to make a mistake purchasing this unit

Now my questions. 1. true or false i can tow this camper? 2. What sway/dist hitch is better? 3. Should i or do i need to add helper springs?

I dont technically "need" to upgrade but it sure would be nice! I truly appreciate all you advice!!!!

[scubieman]

I asked same question on this forum. I'll hopefully sum it up.

As far as asking anyone. You can't.

You have to go to your drivers side door panel and it will give you a this of weights for your truck. For example rear GAWR and front GAWR. These two numbers are what the axles can handle.

The GVWR I find useless.

Owners manual should say the GCWR which is what drive train can handle. Which is total weight of both camper and truck fully loaded.

Then of coarse don't overload your hitch which should say on hitch what it can handle.

Then check the axles on camper to make sure there not loaded.

So to sum it up. I pay attention to max weight towable of everything. Each axle of truck and camper . Also what hitch will tow.

Only owners manual and scales can answer your question.

If laws do not apply and you go over on any of these amounts. I would say you would have no problem towing and probably won't ever have any issues. But you may also be illegal and get a ticket.

[acadianbob]

IMO you would be happier and safer with a 3/4 Ton truck, and a bit more engine. The 5.3 Chevy has only 335 pounds at over 4,000 rpm. This is a fact to consider and not an invitation to a "brand war". That being said, other factors are how far you are towing and in what kind of topography? 2 to 3 hours over flat terrain is one thing. 2 days of towing and 1,500+ miles through open plains (wind) and into the mountains is a whole different scenario. So, IMO, you can push your limits a bit more in the former situation but I think you would be very unhappy in the latter situation. Most people don't like to exceed 60 to 70 percent of their maximum towing capacity. So, you are probably on the edge. Also consider your wheebase. For a 32' trailer, convention would dictate a 160" wheelbase. Others will surely chime in with additional information and points of view. Good luck, be safe, and happy camping!

[Timmy]

Sorry i should have included that information. Most if not all of our towing will be 2-3 hours on fairly level terran.

[Hipshot]

I have the exact same truck except it is a K1500 4X4. My owners manual states my Maximum Trailer Weight is 7500 lbs (page 4-60). It lists the C1500 2x2 truck Maximum Trailer Weight as 7600 lbs (page 4-57). It is true the trailer hitch that is part of the trailering package is rated to handle 10500 lbs with a weight distribution hitch. But that is not the rating of the truck. Also the Gross Combined Welght Rating (GCVWR) for that truck is 13,000 lbs. Subtrack the weight of the trailer 7600 lbs from the GCVWR of 13,000 lbs and you have 5400 lbs for the truck, fuel, people and camping gear. My truck weighes 5700 lbs with full fuel and nothing else. Remember the truck dealer wants to sell you the truck and the rv dealer wants to sell you the TT. They don't really care if this it is a safe combination. I was told by a rv dealer that my truck would pull a 8200 lb trailer, not rue. You were right to ask the question on this forum. Just about any question you can ask someone on this forum has "been there done that".
Ask the truck dealer to show you in writing the Maximum Trailer Weight and GCVWR for that truck.
I tow a Rockwood 2604SS loaded for camping it weighs 6100 lbs.
Truck loaded for camping with full tank of gas and me weighs 6200 lbs.
I use a Equalizer 10,000 hitch with 4 Point sway control.
I changed out the factory receiver hitch to a Curt Class V. Does nothing to increase towing capacity, but much more stable.
I am sorry, I didn't mean to go on a rant about dealers and their lies. But I have been in the position of trying to convince myself that my truck would pull more that it can. Thanks to members of this forum I did not make that mistake.
Best of luck and be safe.

[EXGMTech]

my dealer told me my '08 Tahoe-5.3, 3.73 would tow my 34'er "no problem". Boy am I glad I didn't listen to him! Traded before the trailer arrived. I was scared to death pulling a trailer that length before I even got it. After the first couple trips....quite relaxed....The Silverado 3/4 ton does an awesome job!

[lbrjet]

Your truck's tow rating is probably more like 7,500 lbs, not 10,500 lbs. Plan accordingly.

[BigRed]

Here's what you do...your going to need a Equalizer Hitch w/1000lbs or 1200lbs. hitch bars. Cost $700-$800. Your dealer wasnt trying to sell you a new truck......so yes your probly at your weight limit or close to it. So why would he say no problem. He would have been better to say no it cant ....I have the truck you need on the lot right here,but he didnt so Im more appt to believe him. A Hensley Arrow or ProPride anti sway hitch would be the best, cost is $2300 to $2500 though. Then hook the trailer up and giver her a tow.......Dont be in a race(your pulling 28' behind you) stay the speed limit or a little above. I have a 2010 F-150 3.73 rear end and pull a 2011 Rockwood Windjammer at 34'er) I have the equalizer hitch. Trailer wieght 8750 lbs. Im really pushing it ! I drove from Rochester, NY to Charlotte,NC ( down & back up US-77 Fancy Gap). No white knuckles, I only drove 55 to 62 MPH. Enjoyed the trip, saved on gas (driving slower). Big trucks didnt push me off the road or cause any sway. The only people we saw get in trouble was a Truck pulling a long Camper going about 75-80mph. He trailer was swaying when he went by us...I said to the wife look at that ass&^$& sure enough, guess who was in the ditch 20 miles down the road, Camper and TV destroyed.MR. Speed Demon. So take your time pulling and you'll know after that first trip if your truck needs a little more. I wouldnt spend the money on a TV unless you really need it --- Just my 2-cents Have Fun !!

[snjparham]

My first trailer weighed approximate 6,000 lbs and I towed it with a 2005 1500 Silverado with same engine and differential you mentioned. I personally felt as though I was under powered to be pulling the trailer. I pulled the camper from FL to OH and then later moved the family from OH to NM. Most of the time it was OK until I entered the western hills and got into higher winds. I spent one full day on the highways driving 50 MPH into head winds winding out second gear. It wasn't pleasant. I am not sure you would be happy towing the weight you have mentioned.

[Herk7769]

Times a Gazzillion what Hipshot said.

You will be very unhappy with that combination regardless of what the dealers said. Their knuckles won't be white; yours will.

[MtnGuy]

Here are the stats on a 2006 312BHBS:



Since I don't have all of the stats on the tow vehicle, I will compare to my truck (F150 Super Cab, 5.4 L engine, 3.73 gears) with similar stats as the 2008 Chevy.

The 10,985 GVWR limit is way over my 9300 tow rating, plus the 9900 lb. hitch rating.

The dry hitch weight of 825 lbs. will probably "grow" to well over 1000 lbs. loaded for camping. The hitch on my truck is rated for 990 lb. maximum tongue weight with weight distributing.

According to some popular charts and equations, my 145" wheelbased truck should be limited to a 29 foot trailer......a 34 footer is a long trailer.

No way would I consider this trailer with my truck.

[youroo]

Go to web site(Changingears.com) you supply the info they tell you what it will tow! Youroo!!

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by youroo

Go to web site(Changingears.com) you supply the info they tell you what it will tow! Youroo!!

The problem with using the excellent calculators on that web site is that it only confirms AFTER the fact whether you are screwed or not. You will need to load your rig as you camp it. Dry weights and curb weights are the minimum your vehicle and camper will weight. You still need to put yourself, your jammies, your chow, and all your toys in yet.

There are some very smart folks here who can give you valuable first hand experience towing overloaded and over-lengthed. Many found themselves in this condition after being assured by dealers that they "would be just fine."

[2011 keystone]

I have a chevy avalanch z71 with the 5.3 motor and am pulling a 6500 dry weight tv in W.V lots of mtns I am getting ready to up grade to a bigger truck. You can pull it you just cant pull it good.

[sherdep]

You might be able to pull it but stopping it is also another thing to consider and keep in mind -
- the 1/2 ton (1500) brakes are smaller then a 3/4 ton (2500) and will fade with that much weight even though the trailer has brakes as well so keep that in mind

I would guess the 10,500 is for a 2500 - I have a 2004 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 and know my max trailer weight is 8,600 - would think yours is close to what mine is maybe a little more but not 2,000 lbs more - just throwing that out there is all

[kenn]

We have a Stealth 2612 towed by a 2010 F-150 FX4 Screw. Our truck weighed in about 7500 loaded and the TH about 8000 (roughly 15,500 combined). The truck is rated at 11,300 towing and it did well. We took a trip from WA to FL and back with no issues. We drove in ice, snow, wind (head and side), 75+ MPH, 55 MPH (CA), and it performed well. We drove through WA, ID, MT, WY, CO, KS, MO, KY, TN, GA, FL, AL, MS, TN, AR, TX, NM, AZ, CA, OR, AND WA. We did an oil change when we got to GA and another one soon when I reach 10,000 miles on my truck. We use an equalizer E4 hitch and it worked well.

Here are a few observations we made:
1. It costs roughly $11/HR of driving 70-75 MPH, but it gained us a day of driving.
2. E85 sucks!!! cheaper though.
3. Regular gas yields lesser gas mileage than premium, but when the cost is within $.20 of each other, the mileage comes out the same. If the cost difference is less/more, then the mileage difference is significant/negligible respectively.
4. Mandatory 55 MPH in CA blows!!! Although it yields about 9.6 - 10.1 MPG.

[LadyWindrider]

Kenn, I need a math lesson. Item 4 above, yields 10 mpg. That is what I get at 60 mph. Item 1 above, it cost $11.00 per hour at 75 mph. First of all, most trailer tires are only rated for 60 mph. Second, at 10 mpg, and a speed of 60 mph, that equals 6 gallons per hour. Now with the cost of gas at $3.00 per gallon, that is $18.00 per hour, just for gas. Sorry, as a pilot, I sometimes figure in gallons per hour, multiplied by the cost of fuel, equals cost per hour. Help with your numbers please.

[crocus]

kenn, it sounds like you are one of those characters that we all dread, towing an overloaded unit too fast. You say that your tow rating is 11,300, but with your truck at 7500#, you only have 9400# of towing capacity, and that is maxed right out. Considering most F150s have towing capability much lower than yours, I wonder how dependable that inflated number from Ford really is.
If you are willing to risk the lives of yourself and others to save a few hours drive time, maybe you should reconsider your priorities?
Slow down, camping is meant to be relaxing!
Just a friendly suggestion.

[kenn]

Windrider,

1. We were in CA flats going 60 MPH, that's when we yielded 10 MPH. All other states we were going an average of 70-75 MPH and through the mountains.

4. On the way down, we were getting about 9.5 MPG at 60 and about 7.3 MPG at 75. We divided the trip in two 1500-mile legs. Our average gas price that we paid was about $3.45/gal. We spent roughly 709/545 gals on the way down/up respectively. I took the difference between the two and divided it with the time we gained on the way down.

Our truck was easy to get past 60 MPH if you're not watching it, especially with a light load. So, the lesson we learned for next trip:

1. Plan longer for travel.
2. Drive at lower speeds (60-65 MPH is money!)
3. Drive shorter days.

P.S. As a fellow pilot, I understand what you mean. I like numbers, hence the boredom of computing these numbers on the way back. We weren't concerned about the extra cost, for we valued the time more than the money at that instance. Christmas break was so short.

Crocus,

Thanks for the suggestion! I agree that camping should be relaxing. It was a bit taxing to make a FL trip and back in 2+ weeks. As far as the weight, we we're loaded down due to stuff in the bed of the truck and trailer full of water. As far as towing too fast, I agree with you. It was too fast. This would be the heaviest the truck/trailer combo would be.

[Herk7769]

Kenn,

Not to but you really should get valid weights for your truck and camper, unloaded and loaded for camping, at a CAT (or equivalent) weight scale. Then plug the numbers into a good calculator like Travel Trailer Weight Calculator

I think your will find that your truck axles and GVW are way over the top.
A panic stop at speed, or a sudden gust of wind, could result in a quite spectacular wreck. There are many incredible videos of these on YouTube, so you are not the Lone Ranger when it comes to pushing over-grossed rigs past all reasonable limits.