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Old 08-25-2015, 11:07 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by HONDAMAN174 View Post
$200- and install for my vehicle was 20 minutes. Basically replace factory bump stops.

And for those that love numbers- my tongue weight is about 1k and loaded weight about 7500. 31 foot.

I think your tongue weight of 850 is light. I have had to make adjustments on the fly from changes like water in the rear grey tank and light on propane in the front.

One thing I did do different with my install- I had brackets welded to keep main bracket from walking on the frame and making the adjustments off. The higher the tongue weight the more pull towards the ball.
X2 on the weld option for the brackets.

I do wonder how much the OP can do suspension wise with whatever the existing load leveling he currently has . . . Might need to go to an aftermarket shop and see what they can do for him.
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Old 08-25-2015, 11:50 PM   #22
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Call super springs and talk with them about the suspension setup. Since all they do are performance upgrades, they may have an answer to help out the factory load level system and give it a push in the right direction.
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Old 08-26-2015, 08:00 AM   #23
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What did Andersen say about your setup? I cannot tell much (other than squat) from the picture. Do you have a photo of the hitch and chains? I would send that photo to customerservice@anderseninc.com and see what they have to say.

The soft springs they put in vehicles don't help with squat (pun intended).

Yes, a simple suspension add on will level you. I had an E2 that squatted exactly the same as my Andersen. I added AirLift LoadLifter 5000 Ultimate air bags that have an internal jounce after trying Timbrens. Both work, but the bags are far more forgiving when unloaded.

I am betting you have a setup problem if your Andersen is swaying.
I spoke with one of the engineers...with the last name of Anderson...and there was nothing wrong with the setup (kind of hard to mess up the setup with this thing). He basically admitted that it's not as effective with larger TTs.
To see how much it leveled things off, he said to lower the trailer onto the ball and stop just as the weight began to be applied to the ball. Then, tighten down the lugs as much as possible and see how much that lifted the trailer back up. It was minimal...maybe 1/2 inch.
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Old 08-26-2015, 08:04 AM   #24
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I did read that some people were having issues with the brackets moving on the frame...I did not experience that.
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Old 08-26-2015, 08:17 AM   #25
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So the concept of stiffer suspension makes sense to me. But let me ask this...doesn't this defeat the purpose of the WDH? And if the stiffer suspension is doing the trick...why have the WDH, other than for sway control?
I'm not being sarcastic, I genuinely think I'm missing something.

I know that my tongue weight is too much for this Suburban. But I'm not going to get rid of the new trailer, and I'm not getting rid of the Suburban. Nor do I want super still suspension on it as part of what I love about the 'Burb is just how easy-going a drive it is the other 99.9% of the time that I'm not towing (or should say, my wife is driving when not towing).

i'm just trying to make the best of the situation. I'll even do both (a WDH, probably switching to SwayPro, though, based on what I've read, and stiffer suspension).

Thanks again for all of your toughts and suggestions.
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Old 08-26-2015, 08:41 AM   #26
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So the concept of stiffer suspension makes sense to me. But let me ask this...doesn't this defeat the purpose of the WDH? And if the stiffer suspension is doing the trick...why have the WDH, other than for sway control?
I'm not being sarcastic, I genuinely think I'm missing something.

I know that my tongue weight is too much for this Suburban. But I'm not going to get rid of the new trailer, and I'm not getting rid of the Suburban. Nor do I want super still suspension on it as part of what I love about the 'Burb is just how easy-going a drive it is the other 99.9% of the time that I'm not towing (or should say, my wife is driving when not towing).

i'm just trying to make the best of the situation. I'll even do both (a WDH, probably switching to SwayPro, though, based on what I've read, and stiffer suspension).

Thanks again for all of your toughts and suggestions.
You would need to do some research on whether air bags are made for that SUV. TIMBRENS or RAS are other possible solutions, but again the issue will be do they make those for your SUV with the leveling system. None of those three stiffen the suspension when not loaded, but Timbrens do have a point when they touch the frame that takes getting used to.

The point about the tongue weight is; You need to know how much weight you are really trying to distribute in order to purchase a hitch capable of moving that weight. Too much and too little can both be an issue with the spring bars, if that is what you choose to do. Because you are set on this trailer/TV combination, I would personally try just the suspension addition before I paid out more money for a different hitch. Even if you change to an Equal-I-zer or SwayPro, you should still want your vehicle suspension to be able to hold the weight.

When did you buy your Andersen? Do you have the new shorter springs and larger washers? Is your anti-sway material red or black?
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Old 08-26-2015, 08:48 AM   #27
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I spoke with one of the engineers...with the last name of Anderson...and there was nothing wrong with the setup (kind of hard to mess up the setup with this thing). He basically admitted that it's not as effective with larger TTs.
To see how much it leveled things off, he said to lower the trailer onto the ball and stop just as the weight began to be applied to the ball. Then, tighten down the lugs as much as possible and see how much that lifted the trailer back up. It was minimal...maybe 1/2 inch.
It is possible to mess up the setup. When you tightened the nuts, are you saying you were at the end of the threaded rod?
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Old 08-26-2015, 08:49 AM   #28
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You would need to do some research on whether air bags are made for that SUV. TIMBRENS or RAS are other possible solutions, but again the issue will be do they make those for your SUV with the leveling system. None of those three stiffen the suspension when not loaded, but Timbrens do have a point when they touch the frame that takes getting used to.

The point about the tongue weight is; You need to know how much weight you are really trying to distribute in order to purchase a hitch capable of moving that weight. Too much and too little can both be an issue with the spring bars, if that is what you choose to do. Because you are set on this trailer/TV combination, I would personally try just the suspension addition before I paid out more money for a different hitch. Even if you change to an Equal-I-zer or SwayPro, you should still want your vehicle suspension to be able to hold the weight.

When did you buy your Andersen? Do you have the new shorter springs and larger washers? Is your anti-sway material red or black?
I do have the newer Anderson with the shorter springs. I'm still within the return window, so I am going to return this and get my money back (if this wasn't an option, I would completely be trying to find a workaround).
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Old 08-26-2015, 09:00 AM   #29
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I do have the newer Anderson with the shorter springs. I'm still within the return window, so I am going to return this and get my money back (if this wasn't an option, I would completely be trying to find a workaround).
Be sure to start a new thread to let us know how it goes with the new hitch and suspension mod if you do it. Even though someone suggested it earlier, a properly sized and setup hitch won't lift your rear wheels off the ground Good luck with the new setup.
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Old 08-26-2015, 09:14 AM   #30
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Ok...not here to spin ya'll up ...but here was my solution.

I too had the same issue with a high tongue weight and a squishy 1/2 suspension and the Anderson hitch. I chose the Anderson for the ease of connection so that my wife can hook up (hell-my teenage daughter can set it up). I couldn't get most/all the weight back to the front axle which made for uncomfortable drive.

I didn't want to change the hitch for $$$ reasons and the ease of hookup. To bring up my ass, I went with sumo springs. I DIDNT DO IT TO INCREASE CAPACITY! With the assistance they provided, I was able to get more weight back to the front and I can say I am very happy with the setup now. Very easy, no maintenance product and greatly improved the ride quality.
Rear suspension upgrades will not transfer weight back to the front. I suppose that it's possible that simply by jacking up the rear, you slightly moved the center of gravity, and the front weight increased a few lbs. But if the Anderson didn't return all lost weight to the front, upgrading the springs are only fooling you into thinking you move any more significant weight.

Glad you are happy with your rig. But I still say if you are near the weight limits of your tow vehicle, it is not advisable to try the Anderson. Like you and the OP, it will only put you in a situation where you need some sort of Band-Aid.
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