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Old 08-26-2015, 09:17 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by Kbosch74 View Post
So the concept of stiffer suspension makes sense to me. But let me ask this...doesn't this defeat the purpose of the WDH? And if the stiffer suspension is doing the trick...why have the WDH, other than for sway control?
I'm not being sarcastic, I genuinely think I'm missing something.

I know that my tongue weight is too much for this Suburban. But I'm not going to get rid of the new trailer, and I'm not getting rid of the Suburban. Nor do I want super still suspension on it as part of what I love about the 'Burb is just how easy-going a drive it is the other 99.9% of the time that I'm not towing (or should say, my wife is driving when not towing).

i'm just trying to make the best of the situation. I'll even do both (a WDH, probably switching to SwayPro, though, based on what I've read, and stiffer suspension).

You can always sell the Anderson to somebody that is not near their limits. For those, the Anderson is a fine option!

Thanks again for all of your toughts and suggestions.
That was worded do well!! Exactly. If suspension upgrades were sufficient to transfer weight, nobody would need a WDH (Anderson, Equalizer, or whatever).

I highly recommend you get an Equalizer or Dual-Cam WDH system. They are the best bang for the buck. Henseley or ProPride are better at sway control, but at many, many times the price. But either of these will give you full WD control that you desperately need. You can then sell the Andersen to somebody not so close to their limits. For them, it's a fine option.
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Old 08-26-2015, 09:41 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by thebrakeman View Post
Rear suspension upgrades will not transfer weight back to the front. I suppose that it's possible that simply by jacking up the rear, you slightly moved the center of gravity, and the front weight increased a few lbs. But if the Anderson didn't return all lost weight to the front, upgrading the springs are only fooling you into thinking you move any more significant weight.

Glad you are happy with your rig. But I still say if you are near the weight limits of your tow vehicle, it is not advisable to try the Anderson. Like you and the OP, it will only put you in a situation where you need some sort of Band-Aid.
The OP does not seem to know how much weight he is actually transferring. He does know from the pictures that the rear suspension is not capable enough to be a pivot point. The softer/cushier rear springs in some vehicles allow too much sag. It isn't at all uncommon to supplement weight distribution with suspension devices for the purpose of leveling the TV. Yes, raising the vehicle does move a little weight because it leverages some of the weight and the trailer is balanced at some point on the wheels. A stiffer suspension also moves the pivot point even with the W/D system. Choosing one that only provides added stiffness when needed is what the OP needs to do, based on his comments.

Edit: I will add that this mirrors the idea that many have about the Andersen. If you have a capable tow vehicle for the TW in question, the Andersen is a great hitch. You will see many threads on here of people with 3/4 tons agreeing with that sentiment.


OP here is a link to help you decide which weight capability of hitch you need. http://www.etrailer.com/faq-weightdistribution.aspx
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Old 08-26-2015, 10:01 AM   #33
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As thebrakeman indicated, stiffer springs or air bags do nothing to get weight back on the front axle of the TV. Not saying that stiffer springs wouldn't help a bit, but without a WDH, the rear axle will probably be grossly overloading, leading to dangerous situation, not mentioning the reduced weight on the steer axle.

Members on the forum have questioned repeatedly if the Anderson hitch can effectively distribute weight on heavier trailers.

Another concern would be the receiver hitch. There should be a sticker on the hitch with maximum towing weights and tongue weights.....those numbers should not be exceeded.

The Solaire 317BHSK dry weights list the tongue weight at only 8.8% of the total dry weight of the trailer. Adding options usually bring the dry weight up about 400 lbs, and also adding a battery and propane will bring the tongue weight up some. But on that trailer, it would be real easy to travel with the tongue weight under 10%......not a good situation. Care should be taken to load the trailer heavy towards the front.

a 35' trailer being pulled my a 130" wheelbase SUV would be a concern, also. Ideally, longer trailers should be pulled by longer wheelbase vehicles. There are no rules written in stone, but a common equation is that the total trailer length in feet times 5 should not exceed the tow vehicle wheelbase in inches.
IMHO, a top line WDH with sway control should be used with a Burb pulling a 35' trailer, like the Hensley Arrow or Propride 3P.
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Old 08-26-2015, 11:41 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by thebrakeman View Post
That was worded do well!! Exactly. If suspension upgrades were sufficient to transfer weight, nobody would need a WDH (Anderson, Equalizer, or whatever).

I highly recommend you get an Equalizer or Dual-Cam WDH system. They are the best bang for the buck. Henseley or ProPride are better at sway control, but at many, many times the price. But either of these will give you full WD control that you desperately need. You can then sell the Andersen to somebody not so close to their limits. For them, it's a fine option.
Brakeman have you used pro pride or Hensley?
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Old 08-26-2015, 12:51 PM   #35
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I used the Andersen WDH for about 3 years with my prior 7500# TT and it worked nicely. My Tow at the time also had a self-leveling feature that brought the SUV to level. I looked at the HONDA's Andersen pics and noticed that the number of visible threads on the bolts was less than what I had found to be optimum. On his I see about 4 or 5 threads showing. My normal tow was 6 to 7 threads. When you get past 4 threads or so, it can take a lot of effort to tighten further unless you have a long handled torq wrench. I used the Harbor Freight $20 torg wrench whose handle I think is 15". So I guess the question is "Did Dave Andersen recommend that you tighten the compression more?"
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Old 08-26-2015, 04:52 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by hbillsmith View Post
I used the Andersen WDH for about 3 years with my prior 7500# TT and it worked nicely. My Tow at the time also had a self-leveling feature that brought the SUV to level. I looked at the HONDA's Andersen pics and noticed that the number of visible threads on the bolts was less than what I had found to be optimum. On his I see about 4 or 5 threads showing. My normal tow was 6 to 7 threads. When you get past 4 threads or so, it can take a lot of effort to tighten further unless you have a long handled torq wrench. I used the Harbor Freight $20 torg wrench whose handle I think is 15". So I guess the question is "Did Dave Andersen recommend that you tighten the compression more?"
Yes, Dave said to tighten it as much as I could as a test to see how much it reduced the squat. As I mentioned earlier, it helped by about 1/2 inch.

I now realize that for the best case scenario, I will need a WDH (I'm torn between the EQ and the SwayPro, but that's another matter) and beefier suspension. Live and learn.
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Old 08-26-2015, 06:26 PM   #37
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I assume your were responding to me?

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Originally Posted by MtnGuy View Post
As thebrakeman indicated, stiffer springs or air bags do nothing to get weight back on the front axle of the TV.
I am guessing you missed where I said "a little". And, I think your statement flies in the face of physics (as poorly as I remember that class). You are changing the height of the fulcrum and the angle of the lever by tipping the weight, slightly (less significantly but)similar to a wheelbarrow. Not to mention that the fulcrum in this case is squishy. . .

Today with just the coupler on the ball the difference in 70PSI and 10PSI (as low as I should go)on my truck/trailer was:
160lbs more to the front axle.
120lbs lighter on the rear truck axle.
20 lbs more to the trailer axle.

It is too hard to test this with an Andersen engaged, because in my experience turning the nuts is an inexact science.

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Originally Posted by MtnGuy View Post
but without a WDH, the rear axle will probably be grossly overloading, leading to dangerous situation, not mentioning the reduced weight on the steer axle.
I don't see where I ever implied anyone should not use a WDH?


Quote:
Originally Posted by MtnGuy View Post
IMHO, a top line WDH with sway control should be used with a Burb pulling a 35' trailer, like the Hensley Arrow or Propride 3P
Not that I disagree, but I have seen lots of pictures of these hitches hovering just over the ground also.
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Old 08-26-2015, 06:30 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by Kbosch74 View Post
Yes, Dave said to tighten it as much as I could as a test to see how much it reduced the squat. As I mentioned earlier, it helped by about 1/2 inch.

I now realize that for the best case scenario, I will need a WDH (I'm torn between the EQ and the SwayPro, but that's another matter) and beefier suspension. Live and learn.
I am still trying to figure out what "to tighten it as much as I could" in this case. Did you reach the end of the threads? Did you turn until you couldn't physically turn it any more because it was too hard to turn? Did you remove the weight with the jack to do this?
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Old 08-26-2015, 06:33 PM   #39
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I used the Andersen WDH for about 3 years with my prior 7500# TT and it worked nicely. My Tow at the time also had a self-leveling feature that brought the SUV to level. I looked at the HONDA's Andersen pics and noticed that the number of visible threads on the bolts was less than what I had found to be optimum. On his I see about 4 or 5 threads showing. My normal tow was 6 to 7 threads. When you get past 4 threads or so, it can take a lot of effort to tighten further unless you have a long handled torq wrench. I used the Harbor Freight $20 torg wrench whose handle I think is 15". So I guess the question is "Did Dave Andersen recommend that you tighten the compression more?"
They (Andersen) have changed the design in the past year +. And the total amount of threads showing really depends on where the brackets are placed on the frame.
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Old 08-26-2015, 06:34 PM   #40
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I assume your were responding to me?
I was not responding to any particular post......just the thread in general.
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