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Old 08-05-2013, 10:20 AM   #21
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When you do it you could always bolt the new neck down the channel of the trailer main frame, and take the old tongue and make plates that fit on it and have the same hole patern so that you can reverse your mod whenever its time to upgrade.
I like reversable mods myself, and bolts are much stronger than many peoples welds. Just an idea and if it doesn't work out like you hoped, maybe the wifey wont give you so much flac!
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Old 08-05-2013, 10:25 AM   #22
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That's actually a dang good idea! may ease the wife's mind enough!!! Thanks buddy!
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Old 08-05-2013, 10:54 AM   #23
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No prob! Good luck with your build!!
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Old 08-05-2013, 11:39 AM   #24
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I don't think it would be that complicated to fab the gooseneck portion. Would love to take the challenge. Bring it to Concord, NC, we'll "git 'er done".
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Old 08-05-2013, 11:57 AM   #25
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Quote:
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I don't think it would be that complicated to fab the gooseneck portion. Would love to take the challenge. Bring it to Concord, NC, we'll "git 'er done".

Oldcoot you were one of those I was hoping to hear from! Do you think it would be a wise idea to do such? Would it ruin a chance of re-selling or trading back to a dealer period by converting it?

Do you think it would pull better?

The fab work to me is pretty straight forward and doesn't bother me in the least... my biggest fear is like I said, am I going to be shooting myself in the foot for a possible trade down the road? Or is it even going to improve the towability?
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Old 08-05-2013, 12:55 PM   #26
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I would look into a few things like...
insurance??, warranties?? and I would think resale or trade in value would take a big hit.
Have fun with the mod
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Old 08-05-2013, 01:32 PM   #27
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I would think resale or trade in value would take a big hit.
Have fun with the mod
I have nothing to base it on, but I agree.
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Old 08-05-2013, 02:41 PM   #28
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I was thinking about this when I was driving down I-70 today looking at campers and trailers in general. I had several thoughts to share.

First - I agree this idea will fall into the category of "killed by DW" like so many of my projects do. But just for argument sake:

The best advice so far came from millertime when he said make it a bolt on modification so it will not be too difficult to go back to bumper pull. I see this as wise from two standpoints, you may do the mod and not like it, or more likely you may want to sell the trailer in the future and find it nearly impossible to sell with the mod.

The leads me to my overall impression of this, if you are even thinking about re-sale value, I would just not do it. I would never personally buy a trailer that has had any frame work. Period, end of story. I think so many people fit in that category you only option would be to trade it and most dealers are going to give you only a faction of value.

I am also concerned about what it might do to weight balance. As has been pointed out, you are going to be adding a fair amount of steel, and all up front. Some people suggested this would add to tongue weight, I am not so sure. As I understand it (and I am far from an engineer) tongue weight is product of both physical weight and leverage. In other words the amount of weight in front of the axle is one factor, but the distance from that trailer axle to attachment point (ball or 5th wheel) is another factor. Since you are going to moving the attachment point forward several feet, I wonder if that wil basically cancel out the additional steel and you will end up with roughly the same tongue weight you have now. that would pretty light for a gooseneck. As stated, not an engineer, maybe someone can advise.

Along those lines - how much of your trailer CCC will you eat up with the additional steel?

Assuming I am wrong on the above point (won't be first time for that) one obvious plus to this idea is turning radius. Backing into a spot at the campground should get a whole lot easier. I would think lifting the trailer a couple inches might be good too so you do not have to build your gooseneck frame and deck so high. The deck itself is another benefit for storage of gennie etc. Once you un-hook, the truck is clear but whatever rode on the deck would still be there out of the way.

I am not sure if you noted this, but you would need to switch to landing gear and this might be much stable than the stab jacks for the front.
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Old 08-05-2013, 03:25 PM   #29
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Awesome thoughts Jeep!

I do really like the "bolt" on approach. I agree that I doubt that I would ever choose to buy a mod'd camper in such a drastic way. Unless I could trust who it came from. Knowing that the chances of me knowing who I were to possibly sell it to are slim to none and is really my only hesitation!

As far as weight being added, I have found a tongue from a wrecked bobcat goosneck. The tongue weighed 1500LBS. Now this chunk of steel would be OVERKILL for what I am needing. I would guess it would be less than 750LBS once completed.

Being that the length of my trailer is already 36' 4" with roughly 4' of tongue on it now I don't have room for a "deck" on the front of the trailer. I would add some length too it for a storage box as well as the propane and such.

Having to switch to heavier landing gear in the front to me would be a huge benefit in my opinion.

Currently loaded my trailer weighs 8500 with all the camping gear, minus food and BEER!!! LOTS OF BEER!!! With a GVWR of 11,000 that still leaves me 2500. So weight is definitely a concern but not a major one at the moment to me.


I will need to talk to some engineers to see what they think about the possible increase in tongue weight will be for this or lack of increase...
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Old 08-05-2013, 08:54 PM   #30
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It could be modified with a bolt on gooseneck is such a manner that it could be unbolted and leave no traces of having ever been changed. Would take a little extra engineering, but not much extra steel and could be removed without leaving a trace of ever having been modified. I think about 8 strategically placed bolts would be all it would take with no welding on the frame.
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