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Old 04-13-2014, 02:16 PM   #21
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dual axles are safer, carry more CCC and are easier to back up, than single axles.
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Old 04-13-2014, 03:23 PM   #22
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tow capacity assumes 150lb driver and nothing else in the TV. Every pound you add reduces your tow capacity by a pound.

So the 5000lbs is 4500 after you put in your family (650lbs you said).
The TT weight is listed as DRY WEIGHT..no battery, no propane, no hitch (on the tv).

You'll add to the TT some water, food, bedding, toiletries/towels, pots/pans/dishes/silverware. No doubt chairs as well, if not lights, tables, firewood, pool toys, drying racks, etc.
And food too.

1000lb isn't a big load. So that 3500 dry trailer is 4500 and with your family's load in teh TV you're AT your limit. You've left no 'margin for safety'.

Go for the 17.
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Old 04-13-2014, 03:42 PM   #23
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3 or 4 hundred pounds over isn't going to bother the vehicle one bit. If it's on P tires, inflate to 44# and go.
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Old 04-13-2014, 04:20 PM   #24
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Uh. huh...YOU have not taken on the liability and responsibility for the OP telling him to go ahead and exceed the manufacturers ratings.

If he has a failure, shortened tv life, white knuckle ride, tickets, voided insurance for being overweight you'll cover the consequences, right?

We've all overloaded at one time or another...and we've all had to hit the brakes hard or drive in windy or wet conditions or drive at night, tired, on twisty roads...but combine any of them and WHAM! That safety margin could have been enough to make a difference.

Yes, on a flat road on a july tuesday being 500lbs over may not matter much..on that turn where the TT is passing you and the guy in front of you panics and stabs his brakes...that 500 lbs could be why you jack knifed and ended upside down in the median.

I've seen Tv/TT that were certainly underweight upside down in the median more than once...overloading could only have made it worse.
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Old 04-13-2014, 04:33 PM   #25
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...I've seen Tv/TT that were certainly underweight upside down in the median more than once...overloading could only have made it worse.
And you know for a fact it was underweight and that more weight would have made it worse. If the tv and tt were upside down, how could it be worse? I said 3-400 #, and the trailer has brakes also. Just don't like spending other folks $ for nothing. Folks have been overloaded for years, but the highways and interstates are not littered with the results as you claim. The tv stickers have a safety factor built in them. Just because it says x lbs doesn't mean it will fail at x + 300#.

Whatever, the OP will buy whatever he wants and should make up his own mind as to what risks he wants to take. Towing anything is a major risk regardless of whether the tv is overloaded or under loaded.

I'm outta here.
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Old 04-13-2014, 05:20 PM   #26
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Yes. When you see ~2003 explorer with a small stake bed trailer and mattresses and furniture...yes.
Or a small u-haul trailer with a dodge ram attached..almost certainly.

On your second post you state 'towing anything is a major risk...' so why say being hundreds of pounds over is ok? Which is it?
Logic states the larger the load the larger the risk...so a smaller load is safer, right?

And yes, there is a margin in the stats..FOR A REASON. If you go overweight you've reduced or perhaps eliminated that margin, haven't you?



YOU don't know the OP's experience, comfort level or towing conditions. Yet you have no concerns saying to go overweight won't be an issue in any way shape form, ever.

To say "i've gone overweight with no issues' if fine. To recommend others do it? Irresponsible advice IMO.
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Old 04-13-2014, 05:46 PM   #27
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Well I don't have any experience towing. Never done it before so safety is top priority for me. I'd like to stay right around the 1k lb rule and the 17 gives me the best chance to accomplish this. But at the same time, maybe the dual axle will be better for someone who's never towed before. My wife and I will just have to make this decision.
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Old 04-13-2014, 05:51 PM   #28
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You will find a tandem axle is much easier to tow as it does not have an inherent tendency to sway like a single axle. Suggest a sway control either built into the hitch or a pr of friction bars.
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Old 04-13-2014, 06:34 PM   #29
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If it's on P tires, inflate to 44# and go.
I don't think tires should be inflated over the maximum cold pressure rating. The P-tires that came on my truck were a maximum of 35 psi.
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Old 04-13-2014, 06:38 PM   #30
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I don't think tires should be inflated over the maximum cold pressure rating. The P-tires that came on my truck were a maximum of 35 psi.
From:http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete...jsp?techid=196

..."This additional range of inflation pressure (in this case, between 36 and 44 psi) has been provided to accommodate any unique handling, high speed and/or rolling resistance requirements determined by the tire and vehicle manufacturers. These unique tire pressures will be identified on the vehicle placard in the vehicle's owner's manual."
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Old 04-13-2014, 06:46 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by OldCoot View Post
From:http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete...jsp?techid=196

..."This additional range of inflation pressure (in this case, between 36 and 44 psi) has been provided to accommodate any unique handling, high speed and/or rolling resistance requirements determined by the tire and vehicle manufacturers. These unique tire pressures will be identified on the vehicle placard in the vehicle's owner's manual."
OC, you didn't post the sentence before your quote:

For example, while a P-metric sized standard load tire's maximum load is rated at 35 psi, many P-metric sized standard load performance and touring tires are designed to contain up to 44 psi (and are branded on their sidewalls accordingly).

If it ain't branded, then the tires should not be inflated to those pressures.
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Old 04-13-2014, 06:53 PM   #32
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OC, you didn't post the sentence before your quote:

For example, while a P-metric sized standard load tire's maximum load is rated at 35 psi, many P-metric sized standard load performance and touring tires are designed to contain up to 44 psi (and are branded on their sidewalls accordingly).

If it ain't branded, then the tires should not be inflated to those pressures.
Thought this pretty well covered it. "(and are branded on their sidewalls accordingly)

BTW, the P tires I had were good for 44# and I still didn't like them.
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Old 04-13-2014, 07:43 PM   #33
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So the 5000lbs is 4500 after you put in your family (650lbs you said).
According to the 2013 towing guide http://www.fleet.ford.com/resources/...Tgde_Oct19.pdf
The 2013 Explorer with 3.5 and tow package has a GCWR of 9980 (10160 for 4wd) and a Maximum Loaded Traler Weight of 5000 lbs.

Ford list the curb weight (ready to roll less cargo /occupants) at 4534lbs 2wd and 4697lbs 4wd... Now out of the 9980 with a 5000lbs trailer that leaves you with only 446lbs left 2wd and 10160 with 5000lbs trailer is 463lbs.

I daily drive a 2013 Explorer Limited 3.5v6 4wd with tow package and a bunch of options.

Mine has P rated tires with a Max capacity of 1984lbs @ 35psi.
It also has a sticker in the door that the max cargo/passengers is 1154lbs.

According to Forest River the Hitch weight of the 19' Roo is lighter than the 17' (344 vs 360).

For MY Explorer... 1154 - 650 for occupants is 504 left. Let's load up the 19' Roo and say the tongue weight goes all the way to 500 (max tongue for the Explorer and 45% heavier than dry) and we load the Trailer up with 1182lbs (it's max) to 4706lbs.

So... 4697 for the curb weight of MY Explorer + 650lbs for Occupants/Cargo in the Explorer + 4706lbs for a fully loaded 19' Roo. Grand total... 10053lbs. 107lbs under the GCWR of the 4wd Explorer

A 2wd Explorer should be similar.

So ya.. You could legally do it but you're right on the edge and I'm not sure it'd want to do this with my Explorer.

But what do I know. I pull a TT with a dry hitch weight of 600 and a GVWR of 7675 in a big ol' Diesel and I'm probably over the weight of the sticker (8800lbs with about a curb weight of 7400lbs) on it with me and the family and the dogs and bikes and whatever else in the truck, but it hardly makes it squat much than when it's unloaded the way it was configured.



I will say, the 5th generation Explorers are great road trip vehicles.
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Old 04-13-2014, 10:16 PM   #34
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According to the 2013 towing guide http://www.fleet.ford.com/resources/...Tgde_Oct19.pdf
The 2013 Explorer with 3.5 and tow package has a GCWR of 9980 (10160 for 4wd) and a Maximum Loaded Traler Weight of 5000 lbs.

Ford list the curb weight (ready to roll less cargo /occupants) at 4534lbs 2wd and 4697lbs 4wd... Now out of the 9980 with a 5000lbs trailer that leaves you with only 446lbs left 2wd and 10160 with 5000lbs trailer is 463lbs.

I daily drive a 2013 Explorer Limited 3.5v6 4wd with tow package and a bunch of options.

Mine has P rated tires with a Max capacity of 1984lbs @ 35psi.
It also has a sticker in the door that the max cargo/passengers is 1154lbs.

According to Forest River the Hitch weight of the 19' Roo is lighter than the 17' (344 vs 360).

For MY Explorer... 1154 - 650 for occupants is 504 left. Let's load up the 19' Roo and say the tongue weight goes all the way to 500 (max tongue for the Explorer and 45% heavier than dry) and we load the Trailer up with 1182lbs (it's max) to 4706lbs.

So... 4697 for the curb weight of MY Explorer + 650lbs for Occupants/Cargo in the Explorer + 4706lbs for a fully loaded 19' Roo. Grand total... 10053lbs. 107lbs under the GCWR of the 4wd Explorer

A 2wd Explorer should be similar.

So ya.. You could legally do it but you're right on the edge and I'm not sure it'd want to do this with my Explorer.

But what do I know. I pull a TT with a dry hitch weight of 600 and a GVWR of 7675 in a big ol' Diesel and I'm probably over the weight of the sticker (8800lbs with about a curb weight of 7400lbs) on it with me and the family and the dogs and bikes and whatever else in the truck, but it hardly makes it squat much than when it's unloaded the way it was configured.



I will say, the 5th generation Explorers are great road trip vehicles.
Your #'s are pretty dead on with what I got for the 19:
GCVWR = 9980
80% = 7984
Ex curb = 4557 (w/150lb passenger)
payload = 1570
Passengers = 450
Misc. = 50
Tongue = 344
Propane + Batt = 150
Yellow = 3610
CCC = 1096

Ex. + pass + tongue + misc = 5551

5551 + 4706 = 10257

10257/9980 = 102%

Too much for my taste. The 17 is a lot better as far as weight goes:


GCVWR = 9980
80% = 7984
Ex curb = 4557 (w/150lbs passenger)
payload = 1570
Passengers = 450
Misc. = 50
Tongue = 360
Propane + Batt = 150
Yellow = 2700
CCC = 1047


Ex. + pass + tongue + misc = 5567

5567 + 3747 = 9314

9314/9980= 93%

This is assuming I'd take the max in water too, which I wouldn't. I'd probably only take 1/2 the water cap., and we pack light to begin with, so I think, in terms of weight, the winner is the 17.
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Old 04-14-2014, 07:24 AM   #35
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having towed a TT with an expy that put us over the GCWR and moving to a sliverado where we have 2k pounds to spare I can say there is a big difference in 'comfort' when towing.

Like taking a walk with say, a 5 year old child riding on your shoulders vs a 12 year old. You can walk with either but the heaver child is less secure, less comfortable, you have to think a bit more about your moves and turns.

With both vehicles we're at about max payload.

As for 2 axles vs 1...you get more braking, probably rides better, maybe easier to deal with toungue weight/distribution. But you do have twice the tires and brakes to maintain and replace and an extra axle assembly of weight to drag along. I'd not base a decision on which trailer on how many axles.
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Old 04-14-2014, 07:37 AM   #36
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The safety issue of single axle vs tandem axle is the main point. With a single axle if you have a blow out or loose a wheel it can be much more of a problem maintaining control of the trailer than with a tandem axle. I personally like the tandem axle as the trailer and contents ride much better than in/on a single axle. The single axle would be a show stopper for me personally.
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Old 04-14-2014, 08:02 AM   #37
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I have no problems with towing a single axle trailer......and I did for 6000 miles, including several 1000 mile trips, with no problems. But......when I bought the trailer (Trailmanor), it had 14" ST tires on it, which were pretty close to the maximum load rating of the trailer weight. I installed 15" wheels and C rated tires, that allowed me a several hundred pounds of extra weight capacity.

On a lightweight trailer, there is no need for 2 axles. Adding the extra axle adds 200-300 lbs. of extra weight just in the weight of the axle, wheels, and tires. That is extra weight is just not needed on a lightweight trailer.

My single axle trailer pulled better than my current trailer, but that is not a real good comparison.......a fold down trailer vs. a conventional upright.

Another advantage of a single axle trailer vs. a dual axle is the ease of leveling......1 tire instead of 2 with the installation of leveling blocks.

A flat tire situation may be more detrimental on a single axle trailer, but I am not aware of a flat causing an accident. In a flat tire situation on a dual axle trailer, it may be advantageous to replace the other tire on that side, as it carried the entire weight on that side during when the other tire went flat and may have been stressed with the extra weight.

INHO, when using a "borderline" tow vehicle, towing a lightweight single axle trailer is much safer than towing a heavier trailer with 2 axles that would approach the tow vehicle weight limits.
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Old 04-14-2014, 08:13 AM   #38
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...A flat tire situation may be more detrimental on a single axle trailer, but I am not aware of a flat causing an accident...
Never said/implied it would cause or caused an accident, just said they are harder to maintain control. Voice of experience. Agree that real light weight trailers don't need tandem axles, but I still prefer them for the ride, etc.
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Old 04-14-2014, 09:13 AM   #39
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My personal opinion is that you will actually get a better driving experience with the heavier dual axle 19 than the 17. Single axle full height trailers tend to "walk" around behind the TV more. You will also experience more porpoising than a dual axle trailer. They are also much more difficult to back. A dual axle trailer has a natural tendency to want to track straight because of the tires being inline and rolling forward.
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Old 04-14-2014, 09:48 AM   #40
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Yea I pretty much figured the 19 was going to be too heavy. I don't expect to be towing very fast with this TV. I'm hoping we can swing getting a different TV first. We really like the 231kss. That's way too heavy for us though right now.
We had an '03 Explorer V6 with the factory tow package, which was great for towing our 3,000lb popup. But, it was becoming a maintenace headache (Fix Or Repair Daily as my Chevy buddies say). So we ended up finding a good deal on F-150 and traded up on the tv first. Then when the 23IKSS came out, we couldn't pass it up. I don't know about the newer Explorer's, but I just can't see where there would have been enything good about towing a hybrid with ours. Even with a smaller one, that big square front creates a ton of drag.

Upgrading the tv first opens up a lot more options. Glad we went that route. Love the 23IKSS and the F-150 tows it with no problem.
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